Max-Brake Controller

[HBarlow]

Crispy - we'll be looking forward to your positive report soon. You've made a good decision you'll enjoy.

 

[chipster]

crispy- you will never look back and Dutch & Di are the greatest ! [along with Maxbrake, of course]
Chip

 

[crispyboy]

Time for a full report on my travel trailer braking woes.

Short version: My trailer seems to stop pretty good I'm happy with the new Max Brake controller

Long Version:
My travel trailer braking woes started last camping season. In early August I found that 3 grease seals had gone bad, the 4th was on its way and it had ruined the brake shoes#@$%!. I installed 4 new complete backing plates and had the drums checked for resurfacing. Took the trailer out in the fall for another two trips and the brakes were very weak to mediocre at best. It seemed like the left rear brake was doing most of the braking work. I could tell this because the temperature of the drum and I use a Hensley Arrow hitch. If the brakes aren't adjusted equally you will notice the front of the trailer moving around when coming to a stop and I was getting the infamous "Hensley bump".
Over the winter I changed out the trailer wiring. I used a 10 ga wire from the umbilical cord to a point near the axles and 12 ga wire from that point to each wheel.
I tested the trailer brakes on gravel by pulling the emergency brake cable and seeing if the brakes would drag some gravel under the wheels. Again only the left rear would drag. The results were the same with when I used the manual lever on the Prodigy controller. (when the trailer was jacked up I spun each wheel and pulled the emergency brake cable and each wheel would slam to a stop so I knew the brakes were working on each wheel). Adjusting the brake shoes did not seem to make a difference (rechecked the brake adustment several times).
Just for grins I hooked the trailer to my brothers 2012 Dodge pickup with integrated controller and took the trailer for a spin - for the first time in a long time the trailer brakes seemed to be working.
I ordered the Max Brake controller from Dutch and Di http://www.plugitright.com/MaxBrakeController.html. Since my truck is a 2009 it is somewhat a transition year so Di had to send me a two different brake line tees and brake wire harnesses to see which one would work correctly. Anyway we went on a quick camping trip over the weekend and the trailer seemed to stop pretty good. I like how much adjustment you can make to the brake controller and there was no instance of the "Hensley bump" when coming to a quick stop in traffic (gain was set to G60).
The Max brake is expensive but seems to be worth the money from the results from our first trip out. My only gripe is that they sure could put it in a smaller, more attractive looking case, I may have to paint this thing... ... ... Also forgot to mention how much smoother the overall braking was

One other test I did was on a 16' tandem axle landscape trailer. I could tell immediately how much more power was put to the brakes on this utility trailer and had to dial the gain down to near G zero when the trailer was empty when the Prodigy had to be dialed very high to get some braking effect.

 

[GCroyle]

Crtispyboy,



I know nearly ZERO about electric brakes, but I claim too much knowledge on the Electric over Hydraulic disc brakes on my trailer. One tool that compliments either system and it really sorts things out is use a point and shoot infrared thermometer on the drums and look for variations rather than specific numbers. Braking produces heat, measure the heat. Also great for those pesky ST tires if you have them.



Gary

 

[crispyboy]

I have had my eye on an infrared thermometer gun for quite some time - need a new toy for the tool box! I will start looking for some coupons or fathers day sale this summer.

 

[HBarlow]

Time for a full report on my travel trailer braking woes.

Short version: My trailer seems to stop pretty good I'm happy with the new Max Brake controller

Long Version:
My travel trailer braking woes started last camping season. In early August I found that 3 grease seals had gone bad, the 4th was on its way and it had ruined the brake shoes#@$%!. I installed 4 new complete backing plates and had the drums checked for resurfacing. Took the trailer out in the fall for another two trips and the brakes were very weak to mediocre at best. It seemed like the left rear brake was doing most of the braking work. I could tell this because the temperature of the drum and I use a Hensley Arrow hitch. If the brakes aren't adjusted equally you will notice the front of the trailer moving around when coming to a stop and I was getting the infamous "Hensley bump".
Over the winter I changed out the trailer wiring. I used a 10 ga wire from the umbilical cord to a point near the axles and 12 ga wire from that point to each wheel.
I tested the trailer brakes on gravel by pulling the emergency brake cable and seeing if the brakes would drag some gravel under the wheels. Again only the left rear would drag. The results were the same with when I used the manual lever on the Prodigy controller. (when the trailer was jacked up I spun each wheel and pulled the emergency brake cable and each wheel would slam to a stop so I knew the brakes were working on each wheel). Adjusting the brake shoes did not seem to make a difference (rechecked the brake adustment several times).
Just for grins I hooked the trailer to my brothers 2012 Dodge pickup with integrated controller and took the trailer for a spin - for the first time in a long time the trailer brakes seemed to be working.
I ordered the Max Brake controller from Dutch and Di http://www.plugitright.com/MaxBrakeController.html. Since my truck is a 2009 it is somewhat a transition year so Di had to send me a two different brake line tees and brake wire harnesses to see which one would work correctly. Anyway we went on a quick camping trip over the weekend and the trailer seemed to stop pretty good. I like how much adjustment you can make to the brake controller and there was no instance of the "Hensley bump" when coming to a quick stop in traffic (gain was set to G60).
The Max brake is expensive but seems to be worth the money from the results from our first trip out. My only gripe is that they sure could put it in a smaller, more attractive looking case, I may have to paint this thing... ... ... Also forgot to mention how much smoother the overall braking was

One other test I did was on a 16' tandem axle landscape trailer. I could tell immediately how much more power was put to the brakes on this utility trailer and had to dial the gain down to near G zero when the trailer was empty when the Prodigy had to be dialed very high to get some braking effect.

A TDR member did paint his MaxBrake controller to match his truck's dash. He posted his photos a couple years ago. It looked nice.

I don't remember now who the member was.

 

[seafish]

I have had my eye on an infrared thermometer gun for quite some time - need a new toy for the tool box! I will start looking for some coupons or fathers day sale this summer.

If you don't mind buying "hecho in China", Harbor Freight has these go on sale evry once in awhile and you can use their 20% off coupon.

Mine has been working for over 4 years.



http://www.harborfreight.com/infrared-thermometer-with-laser-targeting-non-contact-69465.html



In fact, looks like its on sale right now, and you can likely still find a 20% coupon to go with it.

 

[mwilson]

Page 7 of this thread that we are currently on... ... Post #96 and Post # 104. It is Sno King.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...er/page7&highlight=max+brake+controller+paint



Mike.

 

[HBarlow]

Thanks, Mike. It was right under my nose. I had no idea we were in an old thread with many posts. I usually only see the "new posts" and read, reply, or keep scrolling whichever seems appropriate for my level of interest.

 

[MGreer]

Crispy, I bought a Fluke 62 mini infrared a little over two years ago off Amazon for about $85. It has worked great and once you have one you will use it for more than just checking tire temperature.

 

[LVrooman]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this great piece of information on brake controllers. I have been towing a boat trailer, GVWR #7200, Dual Axle with surge brakes and have been having some problems with it so I was thinking of installing an electric to hydraulic unit next season and purchase a controller. Well I ended up purchasing a Can Am Spyder and a Trailer to haul it around when we go camping and needed a controller now. Spend several night on the various RV forums and on here reading up on controllers. Because of all the positive comments, I ended up buying the Max Brake from Dutch and Di about a month ago and got it installed this weekend so I could pick up my trailer. I have never used an electric brake controller before so I have nothing to compare it to. All I can say is the ride home with an empty trailer was uneventful and I did not know it was even back there. I am now busy mounting e-track and getting the trailer ready for our first trip next week. But my big questions are, has anyone converted surge brakes to use an electric to hydraulic unit? What electric to hydraulic unit did you use? Did you notice any change in braking between the surge Brake system and the converted system? Any special precaution I need to be aware of in making the conversion? BTW, in purchasing my unit I dealt with Di and all I can say is I wish all products had customer service like Dutch and Di provided.

 

[SnoKing]

You will need both the pump unit and a battery mounted on the trailer in some kind of a secure and water tight box. Most pumps are made for disk brakes I believe. Chris

 

[LVrooman]

Thanks Chris, I have been looking into this for a couple of months, ever since I had a failure of my coupler. The coupler that came with the trailer (trailer has a GVWR of #7200) has a rating of #8000 and a tongue weight of #800. I had checked the tongue weight on the trailer with the boat loaded with all the gear and was in the neighborhood of #500 to #600. With my setup... . slide in truck camper with about a 3 foot overhang I have to use a 4 foot extension bar to go under the camper to attach the trailer. Because of that extension I use a weight distributing hitch to transfer some of the weight back to the front wheels. I have used this setup for 7 years without any problems. Last year I had all 4 wheels overheat. I took the boat and trailer to where I purchased it and they told me that apparently the calipers froze up. They replaced all rotors, pads and calipers and bearings. I questioned the odds of all four freezing and asked if it could be the controller. They said it could be the controller but it checked out OK. Brought the boat and trailer home... about a 300 mile drive and about a 100 miles into the trip the brakes started to over heat again. This time I locked them out and made it home without additional problems. I then took the trailer to a large trucking outfit that does my state inspection for my ram and told him of the problem. He checked it out and could not find anything wrong with it other then the rollers were dry and thought if may be hanging up and not returning. Brought it home from there and brakes were fine, that was last year. Over winter I jack the trailer up and blocked it so not resting on tire. In the spring I rotated the tires and all checked fine... . free spin no hang up thought I was good to go. Took the boat and trailer for our 300 mile drive, had the same problem with over heating. Locked them out and they did not overheat. Spent the next 10 days fishing and having a good time. Hooked up to come home and about 30 mile out we started to smell brakes when we came to a stop... since the surge brakes were locked out I did some more checking and found the coupler broke and had dropped down forcing the brakes on. Boat and trailer had to be put on a flatbed and towed to be repaired. When I got home I took photos of the failed part and emailed them to the manufacturer to find out what I could do to prevent this in the future. After discussing this with them I came to find out that because of using a weight distribution hitch, that probably doubled my tongue weight so now instead of 500 to 600 pounds I have 1000 to 1200 pounds thus probably the reason the coupler failed. That also explains why the dealer and the Trucking outfit did not find the problem... . they had the trailer and/or the truck but the weight distribution hitch was not attached to cause the binding. Thus the reason for wanting to make the switch. I have looked at Titan Brake Rite, Dexter and Carlisle, I have disc brakes but it looks like they make electric to hydraulic pumps for drum or disc brakes. Just looking for other peoples experiences that may have made the conversion. The problem I am running into is trying to find a coupler for the boat trailer rated for 12K to 15K so I can have a higher tongue rating to use the weight distribution hitch. The unit I am thinking about getting is here http://www.easternmarine.com/brakerite-pp-eoh-actuator-kit-4813102pp and contains pump, breakaway battery harness and etc. Sorry for being so lengthy but that gives you an idea where I stand. Lanny

You will need both the pump unit and a battery mounted on the trailer in some kind of a secure and water tight box. Most pumps are made for disk brakes I believe. Chris

 

[purdytj]

Hi all. Looks like I may have missed my opportunity to get a Max Brake. Dutch and Di don't sell it anymore, the Max Brake.com site is down, and Google isn't much help. Someone on the RV.net forums said they are done. Any recommendations?

 

[SnoKing]

Try to find an used one from someone that bought a new truck with an IBC. Chris

 

[drag racer]

supposedly the greatest thing since sliced bread, and poof... gone?! WTF

haven't even tried mine yet

 

[RustyJC]

supposedly the greatest thing since sliced bread, and poof... gone?! WTF

Apparently with the new trucks coming with ITBCs and the uneducated aftermarket customers buying Prodigy P3s on price, the market won't support a niche, technologically superior brake controller product. It's a shame... .



Rusty

 

[SnoKing]

Maybe Dr. Performance will buy it and really kill it for good! AKA what happen to BrakeSmart! We all know what we have thought about their products for years! Chris

 

[MelvinPierce]

The MaxBrake I put in my 04 is the greatest! I kept the 04 when I got my 14 3500 DRW. The brake controller in the '14 is good. Good enough that I doubt MaxBrake could compete for long.

 

[RVTRKN]

I have the BrakeSmart controller and love it, too bad they don't make them anymore. But $150. 00 vrs $400. 00 may be the issue, sales are slower and profit marginal to warrant the continuation of production.