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smarty Jr. for 2006

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Stop injector rattle?

48RE Transmission

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I ordered a Smarty Jr. today and can't wait to get it and try it out. Besides the install instructions ,what else do i need to know? Truck is stock 06 mega. I will be pulling a 10,000 lb fifth wheel later this year......is it better for egt's when climbing to keep the tach over 2 grand? what RPM is considered lugging? Any tips are greatly appreciated...
Wayne
 
Wayne,

What transmission do you have?

Do you have any gauges?

With the Smarty Jr you will have the best pulling power from 2200-2500 rpm.

I would try to keep it above 1600 while towing.
 
Wayne,

What transmission do you have?

Do you have any gauges?

With the Smarty Jr you will have the best pulling power from 2200-2500 rpm.

I would try to keep it above 1600 while towing.

48RE trans.....i don't have any gauges yet, but planning on an egt gauge at least
 
Wayne,

One of the cool things about the Smarty Jr is my EGT on a hard pull and a GCW of 17080 will climb and tap 1300 and start a slow descent back to about 1150 all the while pulling like a bad dog. I like that about the Jr. Also, I am a mental midget with things like the Smarty so I like the simplicity of very few selections and yet reap the benefits. I do exactly like AH64ID suggests and I have 48 RE also. She pulls down to 1600 in overdrive when towing and that is about 55 MPH if you are set-up like mine. At that point I simply click off the O/D since I have no other option and she'll jump right up, re-lock the converter, and go. Most times if I am pulling the TT and the speed will be 55 MPH or less, I just go ahead and click off the O/D. I will turn it back on when she gets to about 65 and that brings her up to about 1800. I tow between 67 and 72 and that puts the RPM at 1900 to 2000. Then the worry shifts from the engine RPM to the trailer tires since they are rated at 65 MPH by Maxxis. It's always something!
 
Wayne,

I would run SW1, Timing on 2, Torque on 4, and try PoD at 95. If your shifting is delayed of back to PoD 99.

If empty you could run the same on SW2 with a smart right foot and not effect the trans, but get a little better mileage cruising.
 
Wayne,

I would run SW1, Timing on 2, Torque on 4, and try PoD at 95. If your shifting is delayed of back to PoD 99.

If empty you could run the same on SW2 with a smart right foot and not effect the trans, but get a little better mileage cruising.

Here's what I don't understand. I don't get the "SW1" or "SW2". The Jr has economy, tow, and performance. I set mine to tow and left everything on default. Am I not getting the most from my Smarty Jr? Can you explain this in more detail AH64ID?
 
1 = economy
2= tow
3= performance

For a stock auto and towing I always recommend SW1, it's still a nice increase in power and not as hard on the trans. The 03-04 don't have as much power stock so SW2 is fine for towing.

Same thing with torque management, 4 is a little more than stock but the most mild of the settings.
 
SW1 = Economy
SW2 = Tow
SW3 = Performance

Unless your auto trans has been upgraded, you may risk it's integrity using software above SW1 / Economy.
 
Ohhhhhh... Thank you guys for the explanation. I have been on SW2 and left everything in default since the day I installed the Jr. It's been years. I have still have the stock 48RE. I have two issues right now. One is the 1-2 hang-up every once in a while. Especially after say idling around a dealership lot. I bought an upgraded solenoid and replacement transducer for that and the second is a slight RPM flare when towing when she wants to go into O/D. I drop the fluid and filter every 25K.
 
Replacing the governor pressure solenoid and sensor, along with adjusting the forward band should cure the 1-2 shift issue. The rpm flare into OD is another issue, if you try SW1, I would be curious if the flare is diminished somewhat? It may be that the possible damage has already occurred...OD clutch pack/TC slippage.
 
I ordered a Smarty Jr. today and can't wait to get it and try it out. Besides the install instructions ,what else do i need to know? Truck is stock 06 mega. I will be pulling a 10,000 lb fifth wheel later this year......is it better for egt's when climbing to keep the tach over 2 grand? what RPM is considered lugging? Any tips are greatly appreciated...
Wayne

I run a Smarty jr on my '07 6spd stick. In fact, I am traveling right now. I have the best, safest towing RPM's between 1800-2300 rpm. DO NOT lug the trans in OD. DO NOT let the transmission "Hunt" from one gear to the next. ALL overdrives, even in stick shift transmissions are the weak link in the transmissions. 3rd gear on your 48re is "Direct" or "one to one". That is when your transmission is the strongest. RPM is your friend on keeping your EGT's at their lowest while pulling hard. I will pull long grades in 5th on my 6 speed (Direct gear) and hold 2200 rpm. Definitely get an EGT and boost gauge. I DO pull mild grades in 6th (OD) but I watch my boost & EGT and downshift if the boost gets too high meaning I am putting full power to the OD on my trans.
SERVICE the trans if you haven't BEFORE you tow. If you can afford it, buy a deep pan for the trans and really you should have a trans oil temp gauge too. My $0.02 worth.
 
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I have an 06 with a Goerend built trans and a mag-hytec double deep pan. I agree with all the above info and identify with the info given and my experience indicates that it is correct. I have a question that hopefully someone can answer. I am going to change the fluid and filter and have been told that the preferable filter to use with the double deep pan is one from an earlier trans, a 94 or 95 type of filter. the difference being that the later filters have a plastic cover over the filter media and the earlier ones don't. I have been told that the earlier version works better with the DD pan.
Can anyone shed some light on the difference between the two filters, and which would be the better choice ?

Thanks,
Chip
 
When I had my built auto trans in my '01.5, it was recommended to go with the earlier type, OPEN filter. Best to call the builder.
 
I have an 06 with a Goerend built trans and a mag-hytec double deep pan. I agree with all the above info and identify with the info given and my experience indicates that it is correct. I have a question that hopefully someone can answer. I am going to change the fluid and filter and have been told that the preferable filter to use with the double deep pan is one from an earlier trans, a 94 or 95 type of filter. the difference being that the later filters have a plastic cover over the filter media and the earlier ones don't. I have been told that the earlier version works better with the DD pan.
Can anyone shed some light on the difference between the two filters, and which would be the better choice ?

Thanks,
Chip

When I had my built auto trans in my '01.5, it was recommended to go with the earlier type, OPEN filter. Best to call the builder.

DTT recommended this for my trans too, use the open filter because it flows better...however if shift issues occur, you may have to go back to the plastic cover design, because of the higher flow on the open filter, it can also cause foaming. Check your dipstick for foam after the trans is thoroughly warmed up. Jess
 
The enclosed filter, I believe, intakes fluid into the filter toward the back of the truck. If you were doing a lot of steep grades, the closed filter would be a better choice.
 
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