Passenger power window buttons do not work

[Blakers]

I'm getting power on the B-pillar side of the rubber wire loom, so the wires inside must not be broken. The break must be further into the cab I believe.

 

[WalterJ]

My Left Pass. window controls failed twice due to broken wires in the door harness. The 2nd time I spliced in 20ga Silicone Test Lead flexible wire from chassis post to inside door. I had to play with removing the connector pins to resolder the new flexible wires, otherwise splicing into any of the remaining harness will just fracture again. I spliced in about 14" of new wire to assure it was the only wire being flexed. I also tie-wrapped the bundle inside the door, at the new wire also to prevent any OEM wire from flexing. I have more pics to share re: de-pinning the connector, etc.

 

[Blakers]

I FOUND IT! I found the broken (or in this case the corroded off) wire that feeds power to the passenger windows. As you can see from the pictures, there is a splice in the wire under the plastic channel, which is under the driver's door threshold. You can see it's full of green corrosion and completely separated. I used my truck for well tending for about three years and, during this time, the driver's side floor was always full of mud, and in the winter lots of water from melted snow from my boots. This water worked its way down into this channel and caused the corrosion.

Tomorrow I will splice in a new piece of wire, and clean up and oil this area under the threshold and carpet.

Blake

 

[seafish]

Great job finding that!!! I have never yet seen wires broken there before...I guess that you are NOT the original owner of that truck...my two cents-- Be sure to use dual wall, adhesive shrinkwrap over your SOLDERED splice.

 

[Blakers]

Yep, I bought her new in May of 2003. Yes, I intend on soldering and securely covering the splice.

 

[BlackBullit]

I just got done fixing mine today, after a LONG time of passengers unable to control their own windows!! And I just didn't feel like spending $$$ on a new switch when I rarely have passengers anyhow. So when I came across this post the other day I figured this is what is wrong with mine , and sure enough it was broken exactly like the pics showed. So thanks a million once again guys for all the time and effort y'all put into this TDR Forum!!
-Hank

Unplugging and replugging worked for me intermittently. It took resoldering to fix it. A least I hope it fixed it; so far so good. The two soldering joints circled in the photo from cumminsforum.com were bad on mine too. I've copied those images here just to make sure they stick around.



Getting the switch buttons off was nerve racking at first. If I didn't know it was possible (from reading about it here) I would have thought I was going to destroy the unit. I used vice grips set just tight enough to hold on and I wiggled slightly and pulled hard. For those who have not done this fix yet, don't set the grips too tight because you are also squeezing the clear plastic under the cap that makes the switch light up. The switch cover needs to slip off of that piece of clear plastic. I tried popping the covers off with a screwdriver and even tried with opposing screwdrivers but I couldn't get them to budge. Also, it is not necessary to remove the switch buttons for the mirrors (I did not know that before I did it).



View attachment 86843View attachment 86844

 

[Blakers]

Thanks BlackBullit! Glad my post helped you out. Everyone (including myself) was thinking either switch or the flex loom between the door and cab. I replaced my switch at first because it was the obvious thing to do first. Then, when the windows still wouldn't work, I checked different points with my volt meter and found I had power in the wire within the cab, but not at the passenger door switches. Even finding the route of the wires was challenging.

I don't know if this will be a common place for the wire to corrode, but since I used my truck for well tending for three years, it was put through some of the harshest conditions imaginable - dirt roads most of the time, driving off road part of every day, mud everywhere, dust everywhere, driving through weeds over the hood of the truck, driving through 3 feet of snow, and in and out of the truck several times a mile - all this added up to a lot of unusual problem items on my truck, one of which was this wire corrosion problem from snow melting on the floor all day and water running down into the channel under the threshold.

Blake

I just got done fixing mine today, after a LONG time of passengers unable to control their own windows!! And I just didn't feel like spending $$$ on a new switch when I rarely have passengers anyhow. So when I came across this post the other day I figured this is what is wrong with mine , and sure enough it was broken exactly like the pics showed. So thanks a million once again guys for all the time and effort y'all put into this TDR Forum!!
-Hank

 

[Gemstone]

For after market switches, either the drivers door main switch panel or individual switches, go on line and order from "The Switch Doctor".

Regards
Gemstone