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Diesel adative Racor ADT 1116

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azwiz

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anyone know if there are any issues with disconnecting the front driveshaft on a 2006 3500 4wd dually (ie codes, etc)

thanks in advance
Steve
 
I don't the savings for fuel economy & power gain, are worth taking it off. And it will be no fun having to lay in mud to reattach it when you are stuck... just my thoughts.
 
Your truck will run and drive just fine without the front driveshaft, except in the mud of course. Curious why do you want to take it off??
 
I just removed my front driveline for repair. It seems it didn't like the new angle it was running at after I changed springs. It seems to work great and no codes have been generated.
I have a new driveline to install as my OEM unit was not repairable.
 
Your truck will run and drive just fine without the front driveshaft, except in the mud of course. Curious why do you want to take it off??

fuel savings, wear and tear on front drive line (joints and transfer box). I understand when a joint lets go it can cause extensive and expensive damage.
 
fuel savings, wear and tear on front drive line (joints and transfer box). I understand when a joint lets go it can cause extensive and expensive damage.

If you're going to remove it you will need a high quality long reach T40 torx bit and a breaker bar, and an 16mm box end for the T/C end. Be advised these fasteners are installed with copious amounts of loc-tite so impact guns will likely just break your torx bit.
I just spent $400.00 and change for a new front drive line. The problem is that neither are serviceable or greaseable by the owner, or anyone else. I find that vexes me somewhat.
 
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If you're going to remove it you will need a high quality long reach T40 torx bit and a breaker bar, and an 16mm box end for the T/C end. Be advised these fasteners are installed with copious amounts of loc-tite so impact guns will likely just break your torx bit.
I just spent $400.00 and change for a new front drive line. The problem is that neither are serviceable or greaseable by the owner, or anyone else. I find that vexes me somewhat.

There is a portion of it that is greaseable via needle grease fitting...
 
There is a portion of it that is greaseable via needle grease fitting...

Same with the "sealed" wheel bearings that most drive until the bearings turn to dust and wind up stranded on the side of the road because they do not have a grease zerk anywhere :)
 
I was aware of the wheel bearing greasability but I saw no point on the driveline that offered that option. I'll have another look at my old one.
 
I was aware of the wheel bearing greasability but I saw no point on the driveline that offered that option. I'll have another look at my old one.

The flush grease fitting is located on the cardan joint just in front of the transfer case...it is VERY difficult to see, particularly when the joint is dirty.

Despite two different service managers at two dealers telling me that my truck did NOT have the fitting, I only finally found it when I removed the DS to replace the ujoints and cardan joint while putting in a free spin kit at 100k. The joint was actually still good, but I replaced it anyway due to its lack of servicing. I also cleaned and marked the DS wit paint so I can readily find it again.

Here is a pic (not mine, but VERY good quality) of what you are looking for--

FrntDriveLubePt2 copy.jpg


FrntDriveLubePt2 copy.jpg
 
I used a torch to heat around the T40 Bolts punctually. After that it was easy to open them with only a small ¼" Ratchet.

LocTite disintegrated with heat.
 
I don't the savings for fuel economy & power gain, are worth taking it off. And it will be no fun having to lay in mud to reattach it when you are stuck... just my thoughts.
You won't save much just by removing the DS, as the ring and pinion are still turning. If you want savings, install a free-spin kit.
 
Ive pulled my front drive shaft out to grease it and pulled the splines apart to grease them, the splines are keyed but you still want to mark it. Pretty easy job and was mentioned earlier a little heat and the bolts come right out.
 
Do all years of the 3rd Gen truck have the greaseable joint? My (ever fading) memory seems to recall that it started sometime after '03.

Steve
 
Do all years of the 3rd Gen truck have the greaseable joint? My (ever fading) memory seems to recall that it started sometime after '03.

Steve

2003 is in fact the first year of the 3rd gens. IIRC, the cardan joint started with the AAM axle in 2003. There are rumors that some individual trucks do NOT Have the fitting on the cardan joint despite having a warning sticker in the engine compartment to grease the cardan joint at every (other?) oil change. Based on my (obviously poor) eyesight, as well as the inspections of TWO differrent service managers, for many years, I actually believed that my truck did NOT have one despite the sticker!! As I said earlier, I ONLY found it just this year when I disassembled the front DS for maintenance while installing a free spin kit.
In short, they are extremely difficult, though obviously not impossible) to find with the DS still on the truck.
 
Stop the clock on the entire front driveline and bulletproof the axle by doing a free spin kit. You won't regret the peace of mind.
 
yeah I greased mine about once a year. Thought seriously about removing the DS all together. All I need the 4wd for the the torque multiplication that the transfer case offers.
 
Do all years of the 3rd Gen truck have the greaseable joint? My (ever fading) memory seems to recall that it started sometime after '03.

Steve

As mentioned, there was a thread here somewhere talking about when the grease fitting started to be installed in 3rd gen trucks. Mine is an early-build '03 (produced in Oct '02), and I looked once again for the fitting and it's not there. I've got 145,000 on my truck, and the u-joints are still good.

Steve
 
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