Most 2013 and some 2014 NO fuel heater engaged

[Ram4Sam]

This bulletin applies to Ram Trucks equipped with a Cummins Turbo Diesel engine (sales code ETK) build before 12/14/13 (MDH 12/14/XX).

Hey.....I was pretty close

Sam

 

[photowrite]

Just Made it?

My truck was built August 2014, the chassis heater was off..... They activated it today.

This makes me ask a couple questions, because an Aug 2014 build is much past the 'known problem' date.

-Does the region of the country for the intended, initial dealership delivery possibly matter? If so, it would seem that a truck headed for MN would get the fuel heater turned ON. Of course an argument can be made that all diesels should have the feature activated (and a block heater/cord), as one never knows where the truck will travel to, regardless of where initially sold, but what do we know...

-AND/OR... Do any of the original order parameters matter, like the Cold Weather Group (ADE) package? Is this possibly why some vehicle had the heater activated, while other did not? Or is it simply random, which would seem odd?

I've had no gelling or performance issues, we've had a terribly mild and dry winter in my part of the west. However, I'd rather avoid a problem than have one and then seek a fix after the truck eventually sees much colder temps. A to trip to Colorado next week and general truck health made me want to insure all is well with my '14 2500, even if that meant a trip to a dealer

Reading the whole thread this morning, I thought my truck might be okay, but also very possibly didn't have the feature turned ON, and decided to check.

Truck info:

2014 2500
Made 12/13
ADE Cold Weather Group
Estimated Ship Date 2013-12-04 (per the dealer invoice)
Purchased June 2014

So my truck was apparently made and shipped before the Dec. 14, 2013 TSB cutoff. But surely the date has a little cushion built-in, plus, not every truck made before this date/TSB had the heater feature off, some had it ON/activated prior to this date.

Using the info contained herein I pulled the F37 fuse and checked the forward pin with a voltmeter and was pleased to see I had 12 volts.

Interestingly, I also tried to check for power to the connector at the rear fuel filter, but was unsuccessful, possibly because I didn't get a good ground and/or couldn't make good contact with the correct pin? I couldn't see inside the connector, and was shooting in the dark.

My 2500 has not seen a dealership since I took delivery in June '14, after it sat at Dave Smith Motors in Idaho for six months. I did have several extra keys made as part of my purchase, which of course had to be programmed. Though I'd wager it's highly unlikely that the dealership/tech did extra updates just to be nice, that is not what they get paid for nor have time to do. It seems very likely that my fairly early 2014 build did have the fuel heater feature activated as part of its original build.

 

[RikDavis]

Probably doesn't matter how ordered or where. My truck was bought in North Carolina, not real cold country, had the cold weather group including the weather front and cord, and the heater was Not turned on. When I brought my local dealer in TN the TSB he had not been aware of the problem.
Keep in mind that there won't be voltage at the rear connector unless it is below a certain outside temperature, at a guess close to freezing.

I checked mine in near zero weather by leaving the key on for 15 minutes and looking for temp rise on the rear filter with an infrared thermometer. No increase in temp. After the flash under the same conditions there was a rise in temp...I was afraid to remove the connector when it was that cold for fear of it being brittle. Laying on a dirt floor makes one move quickly so the thermometer trick worked well

 

[photowrite]

ater was Not turned on. When I brought my local dealer in TN the TSB he had not been aware of the problem.
Keep in mind that there won't be voltage at the rear connector unless it is below a certain outside temperature, at a guess close to freezing.

Thanks for the reminder, it was not cold, 50 in my garage.

 

[gsbrockman]

Keep in mind that there won't be voltage at the rear connector unless it is below a certain outside temperature, at a guess close to freezing.

Incorrect.

There will be voltage at the connector at any ambient temperature.

 

[HorseMan-AR]

Incorrect.

There will be voltage at the connector at any ambient temperature.

Checked my 15 3500 for the heck of it. Power at fuse 37 and plug at rear fuel filter housing. Thanks, Greg, for helping me. I was looking at wrong plug!

 

[photowrite]

Incorrect.

There will be voltage at the connector at any ambient temperature.

Then maybe I do have an issue, and my system is not ON...

 

[jacknife]

You Folks living in ice country need to run additive in your fuel. i ran cross country for 36 yrs and ran Howes year around and never had a gelling issue. If you gell they pay the tow !

 

[photowrite]

You Folks living in ice country need to run additive in your fuel. i ran cross country for 36 yrs and ran Howes year around and never had a gelling issue. If you gell they pay the tow !

Funny that you mention Howes, that is the additive I'm currently using. I'm a fan of prevention, and have yet to have a fuel issue in over two decades of diesel ownership, trucks and cars.

 

[RikDavis]

Incorrect.

There will be voltage at the connector at any ambient temperature.

I stand corrected

If there is voltage always present does this mean the heater is always on? or it is switched off in the neg. return lead?
I was going to confirm voltage was present here in the warmth of Florida. Then I saw all the fire ant mounds under the truck and decided it wasn't important

 

[RVTRKN]

You Folks living in ice country need to run additive in your fuel. i ran cross country for 36 yrs and ran Howes year around and never had a gelling issue. If you gell they pay the tow !

Is it OK for DPF's and emissions for the 6.7?

 

[AH64ID]

I stand corrected

If there is voltage always present does this mean the heater is always on? or it is switched off in the neg. return lead?
I was going to confirm voltage was present here in the warmth of Florida. Then I saw all the fire ant mounds under the truck and decided it wasn't important

There is a thermostat in the housing, so the plug is always wired but the thermostat only runs the heater when needed.

 

[photowrite]

Either way will work. The black wire at the connector is ground. Easiest was is to pull fuse F-37 in the PDC put the key to run, and check for 12 volts on the forward pin for that fuse. If you have battery voltage there, your heater is enabled. Ken Irwin

So is this not correct? I have 12 volts at fuse F37...maybe I should have stopped digging and 'don't worry, be happy'?

I was not able to confirm power to the rear connector at the chassis mounted fuel pump, might try again this morning, but thinking I might have to see a dealer after all?

 

[gsbrockman]

I stand corrected

If there is voltage always present does this mean the heater is always on? or it is switched off in the neg. return lead?
I was going to confirm voltage was present here in the warmth of Florida. Then I saw all the fire ant mounds under the truck and decided it wasn't important

Already answered in post #47....................

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-NO-fuel-heater-engaged?p=2377241#post2377241

 

[gsbrockman]

So is this not correct? I have 12 volts at fuse F37...maybe I should have stopped digging and 'don't worry, be happy'?

For me............it was easier to confirm voltage at the fuel heater connector itself......just make sure you check the heater wiring and not the WIF wiring.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-NO-fuel-heater-engaged?p=2377387#post2377387

 

[photowrite]

Thanks guys, I did read those posts and the complete thread yesterday AM, but there is a bit of back and forth confusion on wether power at the F37 fuse absolutely confirms heater operation, or not...

I have to make a decision this morning to try and get my truck to a dealer for this tomorrow or Saturday before I leave for colder temps; I'd rather not have to.

 

[gsbrockman]

Only takes a few minutes to crawl under the truck and check with a voltmeter (or test light).

 

[photowrite]

For me............it was easier to confirm voltage at the fuel heater connector itself......just make sure you check the heater wiring and not the WIF wiring.

BINGO. I was trying to check power at the WIF (water in fuel) connector not the correct, fuel heater connector above.

I DO have power at both F37 and the rear heater wiring.

Thanks for reminding me and the clarification!

 

[photowrite]

Only takes a few minutes to crawl under the truck and check with a voltmeter (or test light).

Yep, I did it yesterday morning... Just did the wrong connector.

Checked again this morning, the correct connector, and Eureka!

Thanks again.

 

[RikDavis]

Already answered in post #47....................

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-NO-fuel-heater-engaged?p=2377241#post2377241

Went back and re read the entire thread. How quickly we forget what we should have remembered.