Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Water in fuel -- LOTS of it!

[Troubleshooter]

Dealing with a bit of a mess here and need some advice on how to fix. Stopped to refuel the fuel tank with about 28 gallons, then drove three miles and parked. Several hours later, I went to start back up and had the "Water in Fuel" light, so I drained the fuel filter canister. Got about 1/2 water, 1/2 diesel. Same for the next several drains, so I called the phone number on the fuel receipt. Yep, they had several folks who got a few miles down the road and quit. Water in their underground tank (clerk later told me that they pumped it out and got 6" of water from the storage tank).

So I'm having it towed, and will have the shop drain the fuel cell, blow out the lines, and replace the fuel filter and the pre-filter to the FASS. After that we'll have to refill with good fuel and see whether any serious damage was done to injectors, VP-44, etc.

I do have a couple of quarts of PowerService Diesel 911 handy, and was wondering if I should pour a bottle into the tank once the lines are clear, just to absorb any remaining water. A brief search of similar threads on the TDR indicated that perhaps I should treat for possible algae as well.

What else am I forgetting here? Anything else that I need to check? Should I expect to perform several filter changes over the next few tank-fulls?

FWIW, I talked to the manager; they admit it was their problem (hard not to, as there were apparently several unhappy customers who all filled up the same day), and they plan to reimburse any repairs, and of course, for the bad fuel. Thanks in advance for any repair advice.

Not sure why my signature isn't showing up here -- truck is an '01 Dodge Ram (24V engine).

 

[Troubleshooter]

By the way, here's what is being drained from the filter canister.

 

[SAndreasen]

I would put a bottle of 911 in and some lube addative water is not good I would also change filters each tank for a couple I gota lot of water once only knew it chase mpg dropped a lot filter was full of water .

 

[MMeier]

Where is this station, so others can stay away from it?

 

[JR]

Provided the shop drains everything from the tank forward to the injectors you shouldn't need to worry about anymore water. I would also bust the lines loose after the pump and drain the fuel off the high pressure side. Are they dropping the tank? That is the only way to get everything. Don't let them talk you into skimming the bad stuff off the top and reuse what they believe to be good....its not worth the few bucks the fuel is worth. It all needs to go.

Good luck, hopefully you caught it in time and this will be an easy fix.

 

[Troubleshooter]

Thanks, SAndreasen. What would you add for the lubricity? I've been using PowerService just as a matter of course, but would you use that or something else in addition? I have some Marvel Mystery Oil that could be added.

 

[Troubleshooter]

Are they dropping the tank? That is the only way to get everything. QUOTE]

Thanks; they were instructed to drop the tank and get all of it out of there (as well as the lines).

 

[SAndreasen]

I'd dump power service lube additive in it if it was me . I've started running shaffers addaitve but I think I'm going back to satanadyne

 

[Ozymandias]

Plain cheap 2-stroke oil in a 1:200 mixture is Best for the Pump and Injectors.

 

[Tuesdak]

Ever since the Olds 5.7 diesel hit the market many, many injection systems have died an early death by owners wanting to "remove" water the same way they do on gas engines.

The last thing you want to do is dissolve water into the diesel fuel with snake oil products. Clearly anything on the label that says "removes water" is snake oil asking to cause expensive damage. No, You want water to fall out of the fuel to the bottom of the tank or water separator AND STAY THERE. PowerService makes both good stuff and snake oil. Water has zero lubrication and boils at 212 degrees. This means it scores EVERYTHING on the way to destroying the injectors. After trashing the lift pump and injection pump with a combo of scoring and rust it hits the injectors. Lack of lubrication scores the injectors. Then the surface tension of the water refuses to go through the nozzle holes. Combined with temps exceeding 212 degrees it turns to steam and can blow the tip clean off the injector. (By steam explosion or water drops plugging the nozzle and the injection pressure pops the tip off.) Never mind the debris from rust and scoring coming out of the lift pump and injection pump also messing up injectors. With injector failure you can melt a piston.

The ONLY safe safe to remove water from the fuel system is to:
1) Drain from water separator.
2) Remove with filter/separator replacement.
3) Drain from tank including swabbing or dropping tank for clean out.
4) Products that drop the water out of the fuel and Better Water separator 'filter' units. Till it can be emptied out from the drains.

You can polish the fuel for re-use, but, not worth it for a small amount. The wet fuel is waste oil.

Biocide added to the tank is a good idea - but some treat different infections. Make sure the biocide you choose dissolves in the fuel rather than collecting in the bottom of the tank. With ULSD and Biodiesel the bottom of the tank treatment isn't enough as there is enough water in the "new" fuels to sustain growth in the fuel. In the old days bugs were just at the water/fuel interface at the bottom of the tank - this is no longer relevant to today's hygroscopic fuel.

Well other people use it without trouble... They are very lucky and have little or no water in their tank. Pour it in a tank with lots of water on the bottom and emulsify a lot of water in the fuel, inhibit the separator to do it's job, and then open checkbook. :{

 

[Troubleshooter]

JDoremire, I appreciate your advice and have the tank drained and lines blown out but am not quite sure what "product that drops the water out of the fuel" you are suggesting. PowerService, Seafoam, something else? Request clarification.

 

[Tuesdak]

Emulsifier dissolves water into the fuel and gets it past the water separator filter. This is bad as injectors etc see the water.
Demulsifier drops the water out of the fuel. This is good because it drops water to the bottom of the separator and fuel tank.

You want a demulsifier, that drops the water out of the fuel. A good list of what does what is in this study:
http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf

Stanadyne or Opti-Lube both are good with demulsifier.

To be clear on Power Service:
'Diesel Kleen and Diesel Fuel Supplement both contain demulsifiers'
'Diesel 911 is an EMULSIFIER' (This is BAD!!!)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1139346-emulsifier-or-demulsifier.html

 

[Troubleshooter]

Thanks, that's what I needed to know.

 

[Troubleshooter]

Update: Finally got the truck back, and have put a full tank's worth of driving in. They ended up replacing the fuel tank sending unit module (screen was torn and it apparently only comes as a complete unit); mech said that it looked like there was jelly on what was left of the screen. Changed both fuel filters of course, dropped/drained the tank and blew out the lines. I've been draining the fuel filter regularly, and there were a few bubbles of possible water in there the first two times, but pretty much gone now. I'm adding the PowerService treatment and an ounce of Stabil's biocide as a precaution against any algae that might have made its way into the tank. Might add some MMO later on.

The final bill came to just shy of $1000, not counting towing and replacement of the bad fuel. Insurance paid for it all and is getting reimbursement from the station, as they have admitted liability. Appreciate those who provided useful advice.

Bottom line: got lucky on this one.