Locking hubs conversion kits for Dodge trucks?

[Motorhead]

Try double tapered roller bearing. The bearings are not much smaller than the free spin kits so load is not much of an issue. Biggest shortcoming has always been no adjustment for wear not load, once they start wearing it accelerates if they cannot be adjusted.

Sorry I am not as smart as you and God forbid made a mistake. There is always someone like you on every web site. The difference is that the bearings on a free spin kit are further toward the center of the wheel and have more spacing between each other so they WILL handle more load. They also save all the wear and tear on the front driveline, Cardan joint, front axel U joints and give you lighter steering. Another important benefit is 2wd LOW for reverse on both stick shift trucks and automatics when you are towing and have to back up a heavy load. Reverse isn't the strongest on automatics and the reverse on the G56 and the NV5600 is a bit high for backing a load. Maybe you should try a set on your truck.

 

[cerberusiam]

[

Sorry I am not as smart as you and God forbid made a mistake. There is always someone like you on every web site.

So what are you really the most upset about, the fact you don't know exactly what is in there (your own admission) or that somebody would dare disagree with your opinion? I never once attacked you for your beliefs or opinions (no matter how misguided) nor did I dispute the ancillary benefits of a free spin hub (even though you have the reasons slightly skewed). Why is it you feel the need to be an assclown over simple statements that do not inflame or deride?

I simply pointed out an error in a conversational manner and now you have turned it into another HB thread, quite possibly it is YOU that is one of THOSE types, hmmmm?

To put it politely, bugger off!!

 

[AH64ID]

I run a Yukon kit and aside from a few challenges with the initial Yukon lockouts they have been great.

I chose the Yukon for a couple reasons. The Yukon lockouts are slim, VERY strong, and fail to the locked position.

The Yukon hubs are not a shorty kit and, IMHO, that is a good thing. The wide stance on the bearings means less heat and strain on the bearings. While any kit is wider than OEM I wanted a full width bearing stance.

The Yukon kit uses D60 components, to include the stub shaft so replacement parts are easy to source.

 

[seafish]

Sorry I am not as smart as you and God forbid made a mistake. There is always someone like you on every web site.

Chris, I don't really see where this is coming from…Cerb was only correcting a simple fact, not personally attacking you or questioning your opinion of freespin kits. I also was confused by your and others bearing statements, but did NOT know the correct answer for sure, so I appreciate Cerb stating it.

 

[verk]

I installed the SpynTec kit at 63,000 when several front end things started to fail ( i.e. x1 hub, x2 ball joints, front axle shaft u-joints ). I agree with all the positives particularly improved steering feel and utilizing 2WD LOW. With my manual transmission, it's become instinctive for me to shift into 4WD LOW ( really 2WD LOW when locking hubs disengaged ) when parking in crowded spaces. Remember size and cost as reasons I choose the SpynTec kit, but that was more than 2 years ago. I have heard good things about both.

 

[cerberusiam]

All I can report is what came out of the ones have seen fail, double tapered rollers. Single race with cones on each side. Not as big as a full bearing but not a total waste. The problem with no adjustment is as soon as wear occurs it unloads over 1/2 the bearing surface accelerating the wear on surfaces that take the load. Used normally as 90% of the people do they last fine and may need replaced once in the trucks ownership lifetime. In extreme environments and load heavier than normal they have issues lasting no doubt.

I contemplated a set purely for testing but I now have a 4th gen set of 20's and that will be an issue. I will live with the 180k per set I got with the stockers and grease them thru the ABS hole periodically with good grease. I would rather re-gear to 4.10's than do the free spin kit, more functional utility form my point of view.

 

[brods]

I run a Yukon kit and aside from a few challenges with the initial Yukon lockouts they have been great.

I chose the Yukon for a couple reasons. The Yukon lockouts are slim, VERY strong, and fail to the locked position.

The Yukon hubs are not a shorty kit and, IMHO, that is a good thing. The wide stance on the bearings means less heat and strain on the bearings. While any kit is wider than OEM I wanted a full width bearing stance.

The Yukon kit uses D60 components, to include the stub shaft so replacement parts are easy to source.

So does the Yukon kit supply new axle shafts? If not what u-joint do you use? I have an early EMS kit with 35 spline stubs and the stock wheel u-joint does not fit correctly in the stub shaft yokes. I assume the stub shafts EMS supplied are off the shelf parts for a ford D60 application just like their redrilled spindles are from a ford application. For the correct lockup I wound up putting a spot of weld on the ears to hold the caps farther in than the retaining rings would.

 

[AH64ID]

Yes the Yukon kit includes new stub shafts, as all the kits do. The OEM shaft's do not work with any free spin kit I am aware of.

The AAM u-joints require spacers to work with the Yukon's and any other D60 stub shaft. They may not be needed for the custom stub shafts on some of the kits.

 

[brods]

I meant did the Yukon kit come with axle shafts as well as stubs so D60 joints could be used. You answered the question with using spacers. EMS supplied no spacers with their stub shafts. The driveline shop I called back then balked at the thought of using spacers and said nobody made them. Just another problem caused by AAM ******* parts.

 

[Wayne M.]

Right on brods. I had to use spacers on mine. So close yet so far.

 

[Evanson]

I installed spyntechs because of the claimed mpg increase and larger tire I am running. Saw some mileage benefit, maybe 1 to me. I like the 2 low for trailering. I live in Florida and work hear and in Vermont as a carpenter. I pull a 20' enclosed trailer of tools back and forth as well as on the jobs. Down south its sand or concrete to maneuver in, up north its mud or snow. And 1300 miles of asphalt in between. Man hubs were the answer for me. After some initial fitmint issues with internal clearance ( spyntech hubs, stage 8 locks, dynatrach knobs) everything works great. My brother will not install a set, he likes the convenience of not getting out. I did notice the increase in unsprung weight at first. Just glad the marketplace exists for us to chose.

 

[verk]

So assuming one does get 1MPG improvement with free wheel kit...

m=miles before cost of free wheel kit pays for itself
f=free wheel kit cost
d=gallon of diesel cost
eb​=fuel economy before free wheel kit (MPG)
ea​=fuel economy after free wheel kit (MPG)

solving for m:

f x ea​ x eb​
------------------
d(ea​ - eb​)

with f=$1500
d=$3
eb​=17MPG
ea​=18MPG

means you will pay for the thing after 153,000 driven miles ( not including other factors like cost of additional unitized hubs if you didn't change, cost of free wheel kit parts that might break, etc...). Don't hold me to mileage, MPG or diesel fuel costs, plug in whatever numbers make you happy to justify or not justify doing such a project

 

[SierraRam]

So assuming one does get 1MPG improvement with free wheel kit...

m=miles before cost of free wheel kit pays for itself
f=free wheel kit cost
d=gallon of diesel cost
eb​=fuel economy before free wheel kit (MPG)
ea​=fuel economy after free wheel kit (MPG)

solving for m:

f x ea​ x eb​
------------------
d(ea​ - eb​)

with f=$1500
d=$3
eb​=17MPG
ea​=18MPG

means you will pay for the thing after 153,000 driven miles ( not including other factors like cost of additional unitized hubs if you didn't change, cost of free wheel kit parts that might break, etc...). Don't hold me to mileage, MPG or diesel fuel costs, plug in whatever numbers make you happy to justify or not justify doing such a project

You may want to factor the cost of at least one OEM unit bearing replacement into your financial calculations since they seem to fail fairly often. I run a lifted truck with 37's and I can tell you that there is a night and day difference ion how the truck handles on the road with the hubs unlocked. I love being able to service the wheel bearings, old school I guess.

 

[AH64ID]

It always amazes how much better the steering feels with the hubs unlocked. I drove about 150 miles with them locked last weekend and it is night and day on my smaller tires too.

Lots of benefits to them. I personally didn't notice much of a mileage increase, maybe 10% but probably closer to 5%.

 

[Wayne M.]

It always amazes how much better the steering feels with the hubs unlocked. I drove about 150 miles with them locked last weekend and it is night and day on my smaller tires too.

Lots of benefits to them. I personally didn't notice much of a mileage increase, maybe 10% but probably closer to 5%.

Agreed. The benefits are more than what can be quantified by using the formula above.

 

[BillDriscoll]

So whats a good figure to have someone install the LO hubs assuming I purchase the Dynatech and also will do rotors and brake shoes at the same time (which I will also purchase) About how long should it take at reputibal a front end shop?

 

[SierraRam]

A days labor for a good shop. You will also need to get the u-joints. I have a friend with a shop and we got it done in 10 hours on my truck, I slowed him down a bit...

 

[Evanson]

Cool formula. Really 153,K cool mine are paid for, I factored in the cost of 2 unit bearings. Of corse it makes no real financial sense to do much with your truck. How many really need a Diesel? or leather seats. The average American keeps there vehicle for 42 months. No time to pay back cost of any equipment. My guess is that most people on this site keep there trucks longer and in better shape. Replace worn parts with better. I hope to keep mine for many years and that old guy with the classic truck my grandkids ride in. I will let them drink from a garden hose also. I like most here enjoy working on and upgrading where I can. Greasing through the ABS hole is a great idea, I guess I like being able to see all the moving parts of the man hubs where the units are fine but I cant take them apart. Lame reason but all I've got. Carli Suspension runs a mega Cummins desert race truck at 100 mph plus and is in the air a lot, he runs unit bearings with very little fail rate. Faster and cleaner to change in desert than man hubs. They work for me.

 

[Evanson]

SierraRam,
What are you running for lift, tire, wheel, axle ratio? thanks

 

[cerberusiam]

Carli Suspension runs a mega Cummins desert race truck at 100 mph plus and is in the air a lot, he runs unit bearings with very little fail rate. Faster and cleaner to change in desert than man hubs. They work for me.

Oh good grief, NOW have done it!!! You actually provided some useful validation why NOT to do something. You will now be reviled and hated for knowing something more than the norm, using logic to apply the knowledge, and not blindly following the partly line. :-laf