Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Establishing a list of pro's & con's for front hubs. Stock, Spynteck, Yukon, or other?

[Chief USA]

The ole girl has a little over 96,000 miles miles on her. Sooner or later I will need to inspect/replace a few things. On the top of that list is front end (still has the original hubs that came on a 2002 2500 4x4), universal joints (ALL currently orignal OEM since new), clutch, and many other things.

I am not for sure, but I believe that I will loose the ABS if I have Spyntek or other free spin hub kits installed??? What other pro's and con's should I consider BEFORE I buy a kit or would it be better to just stick with the OEM unit bearings and factory hub set up? I have purchased two of the Five Nine Fabrications driveshaft loops for the wife's and my truck. I was considering going through the entire front end to replace the 22 year old parts with new/upgraded parts and figured this would be a good time to upgrade to a free spin front hub kit. Thoughts? I suspect this topic has been discussed before and appreciate any links posted as well as suggestions. Thanks!

 

[petersonj]

Your signature lists a lot of stuff, but I don't sea a transmission in there.

Do you have a CAD unit on the front axle? If so, you can install a vacuum solenoid valve to get you 2 wheel drive in low range. I did that modification so long ago that I can't remember.

My '02 has now logged 394,000 miles - I replaced the front hub unit bearings at 375,000 miles with lots of towing in the 12,500 to 21,000 GCW range. The driver side bearing was just beginning to show some play. Heat is what kills these bearings. A manual transmission and lots of exhaust brake use is what makes them last - no heat-soaks from service brakes.

Since you have a manual transmission (don't know which one) and an exhaust brake, I wouldn't worry too much about the unit bearing hub performance and longevity.

- John

 

[Cummins12V98]

My 98 12V front stayed stock until 300k. Front U joint showed signs of rust so them and hub assemblies were replaced. Of course track bar was replaced but the rest stayed OE much longer. Truck still has OE U joints.

My point is with 100k and being maintained are you sure you need anything replaced?

 

[Chief USA]

Your signature lists a lot of stuff, but I don't sea a transmission in there.

Do you have a CAD unit on the front axle? If so, you can install a vacuum solenoid valve to get you 2 wheel drive in low range. I did that modification so long ago that I can't remember.

My '02 has now logged 394,000 miles - I replaced the front hub unit bearings at 375,000 miles with lots of towing in the 12,500 to 21,000 GCW range. The driver side bearing was just beginning to show some play. Heat is what kills these bearings. A manual transmission and lots of exhaust brake use is what makes them last - no heat-soaks from service brakes.

Since you have a manual transmission (don't know which one) and an exhaust brake, I wouldn't worry too much about the unit bearing hub performance and longevity.

- John

I updated my signature but it has not taken affect yet. I have the NV5600 transmission.

 

[Chief USA]

My 98 12V front stayed stock until 300k. Front U joint showed signs of rust so them and hub assemblies were replaced. Of course track bar was replaced but the rest stayed OE much longer. Truck still has OE U joints.

My point is with 100k and being maintained are you sure you need anything replaced?

Very good point. I have some doubts based mostly upon age. My truck gets well maintained. It just that I have my concerns about 22 year old original factory components still on the truck. I live in a very rural area and am frequently off road in very remote areas and make an occasional sugar barrel run for my honey bees and don't want to brake down in a bad area at the worst time. The truck has been VERY reliable.......just want to keep it that way.

 

[petersonj]

Do you have a CAD unit on the front axle?

- John

 

[Chief USA]

Do you have a CAD unit on the front axle?

- John

I do not have the CAD disconnect.

 

[petersonj]

I do not have the CAD disconnect.

For me, that would be an argument for going to a free-spin hub kit. I like using low range in two-wheel drive for backing a trailer in confined areas - no stress on the clutch and no wheel hop.

- John

 

[2Farr]

If you use the Spyntek hubs you will still have ABS. They have machined tone ring on the hub as you can see. The other neat thing about the Spyntek hubs are they are dayna 70 parts. If you break down on the side of the road you can change all the wheel bearings and seals for under $100. I have had these hubs on my 98 2500 and now my 99 3500 DRW truck.

 

[Ozymandias]

Change a unit bearing on the side of the road is by far easier then the hubs and the price is similar nowadays for quality bearing.
And it needs less tools and can be accomplished by anyone with basic knowledge whereas you need quite some experience to change and setup bearings in a hub.

The only single reason why I run the hubs (Dynatrac) is 2Lo which I occasionally use, for anything else I would have stayed with the unit bearings.

And for the TO - leave your truck alone till the parts actually show wear or start to fail. Stop worrying, enjoy the ride.