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oil consumption in 2014 dodge

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Again, you have been lucky. If cars didn't use some oil there would be no need for a dipstick........and a recommendation to check oil at every fill-up....

You are going to waste a lot of effort on a non-issue.
I agree with you Mike. Using no oil between changes is never going to happen in any engine. Since the oem is the one that offers the warranty,they ultimately set acceptable limit
 
Mike, I ask the same- which plant he has- but have you studied the valve train of the Fiat multi-air engine?

The multi air system is very interesting and we don't really see issues with it. All of our newer engines have select fit bearings for both rods and mains. They can also be different top and bottom. So basicly they are all blueprinted from the factory.
 
I agree with you Mike. Using no oil between changes is never going to happen in any engine.

Well, as I said. Ive owned maybe 10 or 12 brand new cars (not counting the used ones) and not one has shown the oil on the dipstick to be down at all in between oil changes. Ever the used cars Ive owned in at least the last 20 years are good on oil. And do not use nearly as much as this one does brand new.

It is the 2.4 not the 2.0 tigershark engine. BTW, I did see the used site where someone is discussing oil usage as well Basically what they are saying is that most do not use oil The one guy says he goes 7k miles and no usage. The ones you see on the internet are the ones that complain, just like the tdr. Here you see people complaining about their rams. But most ram owners just drive them without problems.

I also asked a couple of techs at a different dodge dealer and they havent seen any oil usage. They gave me the company line which is what employees should do.
 
Could it be the precious ring lap break in during the first few hours? Perhaps ring tension is so low in the name of friction loss, that it's a crapshoot for a good seat?

I recall my first gen CTD- it had a real pampered life before I got it. I knew it since it was new. It ran fine but always weeped at the rear main- but not bad enough to change it. After we gave it it's first hard run down to Florida and back at 20k miles or so, it stopped leaking. Amazing.
 
Well Wayne, thats my theory. Im hoping that if I drive more aggressively for the next many thousands of miles that the usage will at least slow down if not stop completely. A little usage can be, of course, normal in a new engine. But it slows down and stops usually in the first few thousand miles. This one is just taking much too long.
 
Well I wish you luck on this. Of course there's always old school diagnostics to single out issues like this. A good ol fashioned leak down test. You won't find a new school tech willing to do it I bet.
 
Well I wish you luck on this. Of course there's always old school diagnostics to single out issues like this. A good ol fashioned leak down test. You won't find a new school tech willing to do it I bet.

It is one of the required test not optional.....maybe you should have more info before what does or does not happen in todays shops
 
It is one of the required test not optional.....maybe you should have more info before what does or does not happen in todays shops

You're right Bob. I work in what you may consider yesterday's shop. There isn't a PC in every bay with guided diagnostics and such. Nobody from HQ or the desk authorizing your next move. I'm sure a litmus test like a leak down is the last one before winding up a case. The Mechanic- excuse me- TECH has to think for himself or bear the heat.
 
I've got one experience with an engine that originally specs 20w oil and it hasn't been a good one. Ford 4.6L 3v, complete with POS cam phasers that sound like multiple wrist pins slapping around at idle up to 1250 RPM from new. We had it in to the dealer a few times with major concerns that we had a bad or failing phaser but everytime the dealers response was "No codes, no problems". Well, the engine is now out of warranty and no longer has 20w oil in it. I initially bumped to 30w which was an improvement but still developed a loud tick from idle up to 1250 RPM and got worse as both engine and ambient temps increased. So my next oil change was in the heat of the summer and I went to 0w40, and its never been quieter. At 100,000 miles it now sounds better than it did at 30k miles and my iron content in my UOA has very SLIGHTLY improved. I don't know if I've got phaser problems or other internal hard part issues that a thicker oil is merely delaying/masking, but it is night and day difference from the 20w to 40w that I'm now running. No CELs either that the Ford techs told me I'd get if I bumped up to 30w. I wonder what they would think if they knew I'm running 40w :eek:

I'm continuing to monitor closely with UOA as I have some real concerns with this engine but so far so good.
 
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If you are referring to the difference between a Multigrade/monograde no I am not running a straight 40w. I don't even run straight weight oils in any of the small engines i own. With the wide temp swings we have from season to season I'd be changing oil more than the once a year I usually do.

If that's what you mean, sorry for the confusion.
 
Tractorat

I have had several new vehicles and never had one use any oil to speak of. Always run 10Kkm(6200 miles ) service interval in cars. I have however seen many that did and in my experience with cars(newer) if it has used a quart in 2000 miles from new, that is not going to change much and it will likely run its lifetime at the same usage. I understand your concern.....but I would not sweat it at that usage and the dealer is not going to do anything because its not beyond there specs for warranty.

My father had a brand new Beaumont in 68 with a 283cu. That car used one quart every 800 miles from day one regardless of how it was driven.It never changed during the 5yrs he owned it (but it always irked him!)
As long as it doesn't change, run it, or trade it if it gonna irk you all the time you own it.
 
Tractorat,

I forgot to mention something that my tech buddies brought up. They are seeing some cracked oil filter / oil cooler housings on the Tigersharks. I'm not saying that this has anything to do with the oil consumption, only bringing it up to make you aware.
Apparently these have a Hengst style drop in oil filter cartridge with a threaded plastic top cover. Most vehicles using this style have a metal filter canister. However the Tigershark has a plastic filter canister / oil coooler unit and will crack if the tech or DIY over torques the filter cover during an oil change.
When it cracks the oil leaks into what they called "The Valley" and will not show a leak until the "Valley" gets full of oil.

May not be an issue if having the dealer do your oil changes, but I think it is a clear danger at a quick lube, etc.......
 
FYI- our local dealership claims the new Darts seem to eat engines at an alarming rate. They replace more dart engines under warranty than anything else. Is this engine a Chrysler product or an import from spaghetti land?
 
Well, I love this car. Its not the fastest, but its fast enough. Not the most fuel efficient, but efficient enough. Sounds great, runs great, looks great, drives great, just used way too much oil for a brand new car. I think the italian part might be the multi air.
 
FYI- our local dealership claims the new Darts seem to eat engines at an alarming rate. They replace more dart engines under warranty than anything else. Is this engine a Chrysler product or an import from spaghetti land?

We are not seeing that here,maybe the cold weather has an effect?
 
We are not seeing that here,maybe the cold weather has an effect?

Well, I'm sure they have their share of problems, but I think there is a serious case of Not-Invented-Here Syndrome at play, and/or guinea/WOP stereotyping. Have they built some crap? You bet, but so has everybody. A friend of mine was told by a local dealer that EcoDiesels are blowing up at an amazing rate, bad cylinder heads, etc., etc., etc., yet there are not many problems reported here by owners.
 
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