2007, 5.9, G56, SWB, 4x4, Best replacement U joints?

[Motorhead]

My truck being a SWB has the steel, one piece, rear drive shaft. I am at 80,000 miles and do tow. I don't want to get stuck somewhere with a bad rear U joint so I am thinking of replacing them before this Summer. Is there a "Best Brand" that I should get? I DO prefer lubeable U joints. Also, Mine being the originals have the injected plastic to hold the u joint cups in. Do I need to heat or do anything special to get them out without damaging the drive shaft? I am not worried about the fronts because I have free spin hubs and have rarely used the 4wd.

 

[Regcabguy]

The shop I use installs OEM's. Less drama and they fit.

 

[Motorhead]

Are the joints a metric size? Have you replaced yours yet Dave and if so how many miles do you now have on your truck?

 

[SSage]

I would guess AAM 1485, not geasable although the OEM will fit right. I haven't needed to replace my originals yet in the 2003, but they have done well IMO.

 

[cerberusiam]

The joint are probably 1485 AAM with a manual trans. Spicer makes a joint that I think fits correctly. Anything else will require modifications to the clips or DS to fit.

Getting the old ones out without bending the ears can be problematic. They plastic injected to hold them in. There is a lot of contact area in the yoke to cap area and they fit tight, tends to grow things together. If it spent its time in Cali maybe not an issue but salt air will cause them to seize. You need a press and a torch to do it correctly, even then 1 0r 2 out of 5 are going to a bugger. You have to warm it to soften the plastic but not too hot it cause deformation. When pressing you have to make sure ears do not bend or when it goes back together it will vibrate.

For the hassle and cost, at times a custom DS just makes a lot more sense. Time for some functional bling with a 5" aluminum DS and greasable joints.

 

[Motorhead]

Thanks for the "Caution Info". My shaft is the one piece. I don't have any wiggle in any of the joints but I think one might be seized as the bearing cup on the trans end looked shiny like it is turning in its pressed fit hole on the drive shaft. I put a paint pen mark on the end of the cup and the ear on the drive shaft. Is anyone using greasable joints with long term success? I have used them in other trucks and had many miles with no failures. I realize that the solid ones are stronger.

 

[Bob4x4]

When you heat the joint the plastic will ooze out of the hole it was injected in through. I prefer using oem. I have seen many outlive the origional owners

 

[cerberusiam]

I think one might be seized as the bearing cup on the trans end looked shiny like it is turning in its pressed fit hole on the drive shaft. I put a paint pen mark on the end of the cup and the ear on the drive shaft.

If the cap is actually spinning that yoke is bad, needs replaced. The greasable joints solved the problems with the joints going bad every 50k or so, did not solve the harmonics and other problems with the steel shafts. The 1 piece aluminum did that but now the it has bad u-joint again after 70k. Fought the same issues on my sons SB and finally just spent the money for a good DS and yoke on the rear diff. All problems solved and gone.

 

[Motorhead]

When you heat the joint the plastic will ooze out of the hole it was injected in through. I prefer using oem. I have seen many outlive the origional owners

Thanks Bob..

cerberusiam, I'll watch the paint mark I made on the drive line. I am not sure it is seized but I wondered about it due to the OD of the bearing cup being shiny. Right now, my driveline has no harmonics at any speeds. Looks like I will go back to the OE style. Thanks for the advice.

 

[seafish]

Chris, you could also easily check the suspect joint cap with an IR thermometer after drving on the highway for a bit. If one bearing or more is going bad, that cap will defintiely have elevated temps compared to the others.

If you don't have on already they are available from harbor freight ofr about $35 on sale and are great for other forms of diagnosis as well, such checking the temps of wheel bearings or brake rotor temps, as well as indvidual cylinder temps thorugh the exhaust manifold runners. NOT saying they will let you know exactly what is going on, but generally willlet you know if something is not operating witin normal parameters…WELL worth the $40 IMO.

 

[Motorhead]

seafish, I DO have a Raytek heat gun and i'll check it. Good suggestion, Thanks.