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dually tire wear

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Ok are you saying .2 as in 2% if so that is essentially the same as 1/4" . There refer to toe spec in fractions also. Here is an example. "I set mine to 1/8 toe in, .10 degree + camber and 5 degrees+ caster. Get both sides very close, if thet set it to factory specs, which are not clear as far as left to right, it will drift across the road."

This guy I am referring to has been in business doing fronted alignments for over 40 years.
 
The guy at Americas tires wanted to argue with me yesterday when I told him I wanted the front rims to remain where they are because of the sensors.
I, too, would like to argue with you regarding this. I can *understand* your dismount / remount rationale....but not the retention of the front wheels in the same place. :confused:
 
Ok are you saying .2 as in 2% if so that is essentially the same as 1/4" . There refer to toe spec in fractions also. Here is an example. "I set mine to 1/8 toe in, .10 degree + camber and 5 degrees+ caster. Get both sides very close, if thet set it to factory specs, which are not clear as far as left to right, it will drift across the road."

This guy I am referring to has been in business doing fronted alignments for over 40 years.

Nope keep guessing
 
I, too, would like to argue with you regarding this. I can *understand* your dismount / remount rationale....but not the retention of the front wheels in the same place. :confused:


Pressure sensors. Oh I suppose the computer can figure that out too??????

His arguing was not about the wheels it was because he said the tires are bi directional. I wanted the inside edge on the outside.
 
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Pressure sensors. Oh I suppose the computer can figure that out too??????
I'd planned on sharing with you the facts behind why the front wheels can be swapped based on what I'd learned about TPIS.....but it appears you have an existing mind-set that everyone else is wrong---'cept you. :rolleyes:
 
"80psi in the front full time might wear out the center section of your tires."

As they say this ain't my first rodeo! Just look at the weight that is on these new truck tires. My front axle with RV attached is 5,440#. If you look at the weight chart it recommends for something around 70psi but add 10 psi to that and you will get better tire wear to compensate for turning.

Honestly even with 80 psi in the front on my new 15 it's not enough air. I wish they had a direct replacement that had more carrying capacity. I guarantee the edges will be worn out before the centers for sure!

All I have to go off of is my former DRW converted truck, so you may very well be correct with the new trucks. When we were loaded, I ran the front at 80, but for daily unloaded running around, I ran the fronts at 65 with respectable wear and 40 in the rear. I think it breaks down to road conditions, driver habits and........tire quality.
 
I'd planned on sharing with you the facts behind why the front wheels can be swapped based on what I'd learned about TPIS.....but it appears you have an existing mind-set that everyone else is wrong---'cept you. :rolleyes:


Did you read what I said? "Pressure sensors. Oh I suppose the computer can figure that out too??????" It was a question.

Edited...Do you have to be a #&%@ all the time?????? NC says you are a good guy but I am wondering..........
 
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I am repeating what my alignment guy of 40 years told me. Bottom line is the front ends have more toe than needed just to keep the trucks going down the road straight.

I always thought this too, but the main reason for a little toe in is to prevent undue tire wear. As your vehicle starts to move the suspension components move slightly taking up any slack, as in component tolerances, as the wheels resist rotation. Thus when the vehicle is moving if everything is adjusted properly the wheels will be pointed straight ahead. Conversely a front wheel drive vehicle will be set with toe out because as the wheels pull the vehicle they will pull themselves in to straight ahead alignment. I read this somewhere years ago and it makes perfect sense.
kk
 
Pressure sensors. Oh I suppose the computer can figure that out too??????

His arguing was not about the wheels it was because he said the tires are bi directional. I wanted the inside edge on the outside.

I was wondering the same thing because my previous vehicle had to be programmed with a "learning tool". But (I was happy to discover) these Rams will will mostly figure it out on their own. But the BCU will be totally stumped if not all 4 corners are working. On my SRW, I had a left sensor out and it thought the rear tire was on the front. So the bad thing is, it won't reliably tell you exactly which one is out. It will just tell you which side has a sensor out and think the working sensor is on the wrong tire.

I think I see your point in this post. The tires are bidirectional, and can be mounted with the black letters out or the white letters out. And if the tires are wearing more on one side, you can switch the tires on the rims and leave them on the same wheels if you wish.
 
I figured they had to break the tires from the wheels to do what I wanted with the tires so I figured it was safe to leave the wheels where they were not knowing 100% if the sensors would get re located by the computer.
 
One question i've never asked........ But would like an answer...... Are the 4x4's less likely to be knocked out of alignment due to hitting potholes or other rough surfaces than 4x2's? Is there a beefier steering linkage that would make it more difficult to knock out of alignment?
 
I have 21k miles and have owned truck since new. I take it easy on the truck with no high speed turns. Last 10k miles have been local 8 miles to work. Nothing crazy. Both of my front tires are almost completely worn through on the outside edges. As I said, both are the same so the though that I take ramps at high speed does not make sense as only the drivers side woudl be worn as they are. Front tires should not be worn out at 21k miles.

Rear tires look like they are brand new. No, I have never rotated.

Taking truck in Wed for that and 4 other recalls. We shall see what they say.
 
Did you read what I said? "Pressure sensors. Oh I suppose the computer can figure that out too??????" It was a question.
Yes.....I did read it....in fact, that was what was quoted in post #25 above. :rolleyes: When one couples snarky with SIX (6) question marks....it certainly comes across with a somewhat higher degree of sarcasm.

Do you have to be a dick all the time?????? NC says you are a good guy but I am wondering..........
And now we have to resort to name calling? :-laf

I suppose I'll just let it ride :-laf Perhaps if I'm not trying to share something educational and informative with you regarding the TPIS on DRW pickups, it'll allow you more free time to badger other members with "partial fluid changes" :-laf and alignment expertise :-laf

Why change only part of the fluid??????

Why would anyone change "PART" of their fluid???????? Would you change part go your engine oil? I just don't get it. I have always done a complete fluid exchange or complete drain if the converter is tapped.

Draining 50% or less makes no sense to me.

So you did not change ALL the trans fluid?

Personally I never have or never will do a partial fluid change. I don't change "part" of my engine oil.

You need to do a fluid exchange. Would you do a partial oil change?

Like I say do you change part of your engines oil?

Ask a question never criticizing anyone on here on how or why they do anything and it seems some have nothing better to than be *** MONKEYS.

DOES NOT BOTHER ME but do you really think the people that lurks here will want to join with the constant sniping?

I imagine they'll not be too likely to join when some call others "dicks" as well. :-laf
 
Cummins and brockman, while i greatly respect both of you and your advice on this and other forums, please find another thread for the petty bull****... none of it matters to this discussion, please drop it.

NDanecker, please keep me posted on what you find out Wednesday! I am considering having the dealer look at mine when it goes in for the track bar recall bracket thing.
 
All I have to go off of is my former DRW converted truck, so you may very well be correct with the new trucks. When we were loaded, I ran the front at 80, but for daily unloaded running around, I ran the fronts at 65 with respectable wear and 40 in the rear. I think it breaks down to road conditions, driver habits and........tire quality.

Don't forget about weight. With my 2nd gen I ran 65psi in the front for the 14 years I owned it, and tire wear was perfect all those years. With my 4th gen, it's considerably heavier in the front and 80 seems about perfect for tire wear on it. My 4th gen is also among the heaviest on this forum being a mega cab stretched an additional 20". My 2nd gen was a quad cab long bed. I don't have a printout handy of my steer axle on my 2nd gen, but I seem to remember my total truck weight was 7,800 with me in it, vs 9,200 for my 4th gen. I'd imagine much of that difference of weight was over the front axle.
 
"I imagine they'll not be too likely to join when some call others "dicks" as well."

Sorry but I had enough or your constant criticism of most everything I have to say.

Hatchet buried!
 
I have 21k miles and have owned truck since new. I take it easy on the truck with no high speed turns. Last 10k miles have been local 8 miles to work. Nothing crazy. Both of my front tires are almost completely worn through on the outside edges. As I said, both are the same so the though that I take ramps at high speed does not make sense as only the drivers side woudl be worn as they are. Front tires should not be worn out at 21k miles.

Rear tires look like they are brand new. No, I have never rotated.

Taking truck in Wed for that and 4 other recalls. We shall see what they say.

Do as I have suggested run 80 front ALL the time, rear 40 solo and 65 or whatever your load dictates towing. Have your fronted aligned to 1/32" toe the alignment shop will know what you are talking about. Some don't like my terminology, sorry that is how I was told and the mechanic at the dealer completely understood when I had my tie rod replaced. My Son told AutoNation the same when it came time to do his alignment when it was being repaired for a front end collision.
 
Not sure how many are aware of Load & Inflation tables......but there's some good info within them.

A similar discussion on another forum regarding rear DRW tire pressures came up, and this is what I suggested :

If you're running empty a good percentage of the time....you'll be fine at 40 psi (or less) on the four rears.

Your truck weighs about 8,328 lbs....4,989 lbs front axle, 3,339 lbs rear axle.

Four LT2358017's in dual configuration at 40 psi supports 1,725 lbs each.....6,900 lbs total. That's about 3,561 lbs more than the actual weight that's on your empty rear tires.

35 psi yields 1,570 lbs each.....6,280 lbs total for four.

https://toyotires2-1524598101.netdn...ication_of_Load_Inflation_Tables_20151020.pdf
 
NDanecker, please keep me posted on what you find out Wednesday! I am considering having the dealer look at mine when it goes in for the track bar recall bracket thing.

Dealer said bracket is on recall and no date yet.

Wheel alignment is only warranted for 12 months and 12k miles. They don't do alignment there so they will need to send it out. WTF?!?!?!?

I have the extended warranty to 100k. I would think this would be covered. Maybe I need another dealer.....

Very frustrated....
 
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