Torque converter cooler delete

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Turbo question, he341 mods.

rough idle and cutting out

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Aloha everyone i have been without a truck for a while so this is what i have now 2006 Dodge ram 2500 110K miles just purchased it a couple days ago. the truck is in really good condition with the exception of the dreaded TC cooler leaked into the trans and ATF is now spread through out the cooling system i have all the stuff to flush the engine. I have looked on the forum for the DELETE procedure on the site but have not found anything. since i live in Hawaii i don't think i need it anyway. I have spoken with Dennis at ATS and will be ordering a stage 1 trans and a 5 star Torque converter soon. Anyone done this and can tell me what i am going to need to get rid of this thing would be much appreciated coolant side plug sizes ? and if i just need to loop the to ends of the transmission fluid back on themselves or plug at Trans ? its good to have a Diesel again. Only reason we have decided to get one is that Diesel has come down from above $4 a gallon to $2.93 at Costco hope it stays that way. Price of living in paradise
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You will need to tie the lines together, not block them, on the heat exchanger. The cooling circuit is the lube\cooling for the trans drive train, thrust washers clutch packs etc. While you are at it removing the drain back valve is a good option to enhance cooling.

As for your choice of trans and considering your location, I wouldn't. You will be much better off ordering parts and finding a local shop.
 
Well I have heard that twice now about ATS I just updated my profile I am in Hawaii anybody know of a better aftermarket Trans then not sure I trust any of the Trans shops around here
 
I prefer to use Goerend parts for the critical ones like a TC. Unless you are racing or retuning for more power a good stock rebuild with better clutches is pretty solid. The shift kit will be a key process to get right, the rest of the trans assembly is pretty straight forward.

The problem is buying a complete trans and having it shipped that far is problematic if there are issues, warranties really don't have a lot of meaning with that much distance. You could probably build 2 transmissions for the shipping costs alone. See if you can find a shop that is good at the Dodge transmissions and will back their work, that is all you really need. If they can build a 727, 46RE, or 47RE they can do yours. You might have to negotiate using the choice parts but if they are worth dealing with they will listen and understand. The ones that absolutely refuse to use your parts are not techs, they are parts changers with a goal of making as many $$ as possible without quality.

Finding a local shop can be a chore, but, support for issues can make all the difference.

That said, look into Fire Punk transmissions and see what you think of their product. Not making any recommendations for or against, just suggesting a little more homework is in order.
 
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Thx for the replies guys ya maybe will call around . Right now I am trying to flush out all the garbage out of the radiator and engine then work on pulling out the Trans and flush the cooler going to just cut the Trans lines from the cooler and use a tube to bypass the heat exchanger that caused the problem from the beginning. Shipping to Hawaii is expensive but ATS gave me a price of $580 each getting Trans to me and sending back Trans and TC
 
Where is this drain back valve that you mention not familiar with that. I am also thinking about rebuilding the Trans myself and then ordering a throttle body.
 
The drain back valve is the trans cooler output line under the driver side battery. You will find a rubber section with a brass fitting and union at one end, the check ball and spring are in the brass part of the line forward of the union.
 
6" Tuff country long arm kit country long arm

Now that I am looking at the truck on a monitor instead of my tablet I can see that is a larger lift. On my tablet it looked like a 3" with stock rims and wheels which got me excited because I don't like the offset on my wheels and a 3" lift. Tempted to go back to stock wheels but can't find someone with a similar setup to see how it would look.

Thanks for the reply.
 
Cerberusiam: I tried to drill out the fitting that the check ball and spring are located in. The metal is too soft and the drill bit just twisted up. I even dulled a drill bit for the job. I also moved up incrementally in drill bit sizes. This was a difficult job. I stopped to avoid causing more damage and making the pickup undriveable. My new plan is to remove that section of tubing this upcoming winter and replace with rubber transmission hose unless you have a better plan of action on eliminating the check ball. I'd love to hear it.
 
well digging at work i found this to bypass the heat exchanger that failed should work well better than trying to bend a bunch of copper all over the engine bay. Now just need to get transmission out on Friday and drop off at transmission shop. After i get this in i should be able to get that ball check valve out and get the transmission cooler flushed ou.
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cooler bypass.jpg


cooler bypass.jpg
 
Cerberusiam: I tried to drill out the fitting that the check ball and spring are located in. The metal is too soft and the drill bit just twisted up. I even dulled a drill bit for the job. I also moved up incrementally in drill bit sizes. This was a difficult job. I stopped to avoid causing more damage and making the pickup undriveable. My new plan is to remove that section of tubing this upcoming winter and replace with rubber transmission hose unless you have a better plan of action on eliminating the check ball. I'd love to hear it.

Yep, drilling brass is time consuming and you need high quality bits. Easiest way to do it is remove line and put it in a vice, but, it can be done on the vehicle if one is careful. The other option is just replace the whole line with a new custom hydraulic hose made to fit.
 
i think the hydraulic hose option is best i have access to fittings here at work and probably go that route and just make up a line and replace its all 1/2" stuff
 
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