Advice - Brake Discs and Pads

[Clayboy]

I would appreciate practical advise, preferably based off experience, on recommendations for discs and pads for my 2006 2500. *I would like to upgrade my brakes - daily driver and tow vehicle. *Ideally I would like to improve braking efficiency, but don't want to get something just because it looks cool. *Thank you in advance for your insight.

 

[inlinesix3million]

Brakes are one of the things that they did right on the 3rd gens. Make sure you get the OEM premiums online for brake pads. Dodge dealers along with Genos have a budget

version that will not last as long as originals. Mine lasted 150000 miles. I recently replaced mine with OEM premium pads and EBC slotted rotors. You can Google why slotted

are better than plain. I also replaced my brake lines with EGR stainless / Kevlar lines and am happy with the results. The pedal feels firm and the truck stops great. One of the

reasons for a caliper to stick is the stock rubber line degrading.

 

[GrantP]

Check out the Powerstop brake kits. I have them on my 06 and my wifes Jeep, they've been great and very reasonably priced.

 

[inlinesix3million]

Make sure when you purchace rebuilt calipers that you receive new banjo bolts. You can reuse the old ones if you are careful, but, at some point they are just DONE.

I painted my calipers pre-install with Dupli Color silver caliper paint. ( Amazon ) Rear axle with POR- 15 process.

 

[Jim Brewer]

Just a point of data - I had the Hawk's Super Duty's on my truck for about a year of towing my 5th wheel and they wore completely out. They didn't stop the truck all that well and didn't last long at all. That said, they were easy on the rotors.

I just replaced them with some Wagner's and the different is immediately better. I don't know how long they'll last, but I'm not getting Hawk's again ..
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/wagner-thermoquiet-semi-metallic-brake-pads-rear-4-pad-set-mx702a/20450181-P

 

[phantomusa]

There are 3 basic type of brake pads organic, metallic, ceramic,
Best all around pad is metallic
Best long life pad is ceramic
Best price pad is organic
Each type has its place depending on how you drive
Because I tote trailers loaded heavy at times I like ceramic they stop better and last longer then the others down side is they generate more heat then the other types which transfers to the braking components so every time I do a brake job I replace the brake calipers and rotors along with the pads I've gotten 125000 miles on a set of front ceramic brakes and so far I haven't needed to replace my rear pads currently I have 170560 on my truck
Pappy

 

[Jim Brewer]

so every time I do a brake job I replace the brake calipers and rotors along with the pads

Just to make sure I understand - do you really replace your calipers every time you do a brake job?

 

[phantomusa]

Yes I do I normally get rebuilt calipers it's not a big extra cost and worth the extra money and because of extended wear of ceramic pads I get longer milage from every brake job

 

[Tinman]

Where do you get your rebuild calipers?

I got 100K out of the stock pads. Replaced with EBC yellow stuff and got 50K but a noticeable improvement in stopping power/feel. I am still using yellow stuff for now.

 

[phantomusa]

Where do you get your rebuild calipers?

I got 100K out of the stock pads. Replaced with EBC yellow stuff and got 50K but a noticeable improvement in stopping power/feel. I am still using yellow stuff for now.

Got my rebuild calipers from NAPA

 

[Bob4x4]

IMHO replacing calipers at a pad change is a waste of money.The oem calipers are high quality and hold up very well.Calipers are recommended by shops as a big money maker,not because they have failed.Failed calipers are very rare.The extreme weather areas and road treatments of course will shorten the useful life of many componets including brakes.Brake pads are a compromise,the oem's are a good choice for most consumers

 

[Jim Brewer]

IMHO replacing calipers at a pad change is a waste of money.

That's kind of what I was thinking. The only part of a caliper that wears out are the seals (providing you don't put water or sand in your brake fluid).
As long as the seals don't leak and retract the pistons enough, I don't see much reason to replace them. IMHO, of course.

 

[seafish]

OP, at 100k I replaced ONLY the brake pads on my 2005 2500 truck. Given the excellent service that I had gotten out of the oem pads, it was obvious to me to simply use them again. NOTE-- These are the Mopar PREMIUM pads, NOT the Value line that most parts counters sell. While pehaps more costly then other pads, the excellent braking with minimal noise and dust that I got for 100 k made it a no brainer for me. While I did the work myself, I also had the rotors inspected only, NOT turned...they were within spec, only half worn, and NOT warped or cracked... I slapped them back on the truck hopefully for another 100k. OEM brake calipers were cleaned and "greased" and brake fluid was FULLY flushed from master cylinder down. I have been driving the truck since then for another 20k with only excellent braking and no problems with only a simple pad replacement with oem quality pads.

Here are the part #'s for the Mopar PREMIUM pads for a 3rd gen truck-- You can find them online for about $120/ axle

05093267AA full set--FRONT Disc Brake Pads

05093257AA full set--REAR Disc Brake Pads




And here are the Torque specs you need--

Caliper pins 24 ft*lb.
Caliper adapter mounting screws are 130 ft*lb.

 

[Wayne M.]

I agree the 3gen brakes are fantastic.
I used Centric ceramic pads and they are great. I don't tow heavy or anything, but they're great. Dust in wheels is a peeve of mine, and these are very clean.
Being in the rust belt, the caliper sliders take a beating. Always sticking and binding. I always crack a bleeder and push out the old fluid- never back into the system. If there are no pots sticking, I pop out the slides and lube them with brake lube- looks like dielectric grease, or I use this super slick air brake S cam grease I sometimes get. Don't pinch the slider boots sending the calipers home.
Inlinesix, your rig is looking good!

 

[brods]

IMHO replacing calipers at a pad change is a waste of money.The oem calipers are high quality and hold up very well.Calipers are recommended by shops as a big money maker,not because they have failed.Failed calipers are very rare.The extreme weather areas and road treatments of course will shorten the useful life of many componets including brakes.Brake pads are a compromise,the oem's are a good choice for most consumers

You guys on the west coast forget how good you have it when it comes to corrosion. The oem rotors on my truck had plenty of thickness left at 107K miles but were rotting away from the inside out. Literally chunks of material falling off. Here in the rust belt, as Wayne said, the calipers have to be pulled and the slide bores cleaned of rust or they will pinch the rubber against the sleeve causing the outer pad to drag. For a DIY job rebuilt calipers are inexpensive enough to change at every pad change or every other pad change.

At 107K miles I went with the powerstop towing kit (pads and rotors) with the oem calipers and was not impressed. Put on rebuilt calipers and no change. After 15K miles went with Wagner severe duty pads (because of good recommendations on TDR) and raybestos ATP rotors all around and couldn’t be happier. If these pads last over 50K then I’ll do calipers at the next pad change too. Were the calipers the problem or do powerstop kits suck? Don’t know, but I’ll stick with these Wagner severe duty pads going forward and consider calipers as just part of the job.

Powerstop rear rotor 15K miles:

 

[cerberusiam]

The only part of a caliper that wears out are the seals (providing you don't put water or sand in your brake fluid).
As long as the seals don't leak and retract the pistons enough.

Short answer, no. The seals not the issue the phenolic pistons and the boots are, they will not last under hard usage. The constant heat cycles slowly degrade the piston to where it starts swelling, turn the boots hard and they leak brake dust and road grime. Add to that, brake fluid is hygroscopic so the water ends up rusting the inside of calipers causing buildup on the portion of the piston exposed to brakes fluid, the caliper will ALWAYS be the recipient of all the garbage in the system at the low point. The seal is the hardiest part of the caliper but that isn't going to matter when the inside and outside of the piston is being attacked by abrasive material and the environment is breaking the parts down.

Normally one can slide by with 2 sets of pad sin the front and one in the rear before issues with the calipers start but that is totally dependent on the usage and environment. Part of the reason FOR early pad wear can be the pistons sticking on when they get warm, might as well change them out at brake pad change as the chances of issues jump drastically at that point. On a working truck, no question when the brakes are done to do a loaded caliper.

What hasn't been discussed is when the brakes are done the brake fluid needs changed, AT LEAST once per year or every 100k as a general rule. Doesn't do a bit of good to put all good parts on with contaminated fluid in the system.

 

[Bob4x4]

I think once a year for fluid changing is a bit extreme,the companies that build the flush machines (chemical companies-MOC,BG etc)recommend 2 years,Unfortunately the factory doesn't even list the service in the maitenence chart that goes out to 105k miles.That fact makes it much harder for customers to believe it should be done,There are both test strips and electronic meters that will measure water contents that will show the need,

 

[cerberusiam]

The 1 year 100k is worst case scenario, usage and environment will play a big part in that determination. Then again, brake fluid is cheap and with a relatively inexpensive tool the flushing and changing the brake fluid is not that expensive or hard to do. OM never has been the most consistent and authoritative guide on what should be done and when, it is more marketing spin and reading fodder than a true technical document. It is pretty telling they recommend flushing power steering and ignore the braking fluid completely.

 

[Bob4x4]

One issue now days at least in California is when you recommend a service such as brake flush.that is not recommended by the mfg if it goes to court you loose.California being the litigious state that it is .This makes the service manager refund moneys at the drop of the hat and the tech has his pay taken back.A bad situation for everyone involved,and another reason there are so few good techs anymore

 

[cerberusiam]

That is so far beyond stupid it must be true. Somebody's bright idea to curb corruption, obviously unwarranted and unsolicited services is the intent, has been corrupted beyond recognition by a system that cannot police itself. Recommend a service that is obviously a safety issue, get sued because the manufacturer did not call out what is common sense. FAIL to recommend the same service when it BECOMES a safety issue with consequences, get sued because servicer should have known better.

When the last legitimate business leaves and sidewalk vendors are all that is left, they can then legislate burros as the only safe conveyance on public roads. Certain amount of irony there. LOL!