What oil is in your Cummiins today ?

[Newsa]

Are you starting your truck at -40 with out warming it up first. Good luck to you with whatever oil you use.

https://youtu.be/FzbbMlWp5Xg

 

[Kevin719]

Are you starting your truck at -40 with out warming it up first. Good luck to you with whatever oil you use.

I haven't seen -40 yet but occasionally -20f and I use a winterizer anti gel additive

 

[sr71xjet]

"Daily Driver? Change it before 15,000 due to possible fuel dilution. Especially if it's the first change"

13 and newer trucks don't have that issue like the earlier 6.7's did.

Why is that? Im new and have just bought a 2017

Thanks

 

[Newsa]

Injecting more fuel into the cylinders has been used in Cummins 4th gens for a while. 2009-2012 were more prone to fuel dilution than 2013+. I believe 3rd (previous) gens injected fuel into the exhaust stream.(instead of the cylinders). Injecting more fuel assists active regeneratuon (burning off accumulated soot in the diesel particulate filter). The DPF needs to regen so it doesn't clog. It is programmed to do it when the pressure difference across the DPF is too great. Using your truck as a daily driver will reduce the passive regeneration (hot exhaust gasses burning soot particles out of the DPF without extra fuel injection) and require more active regens (injecting more fuel into the cylinder to increase EGT). There is a danger of excess fuel washing past the cylinder rings and down into the oil sump, thus diluting your oil with fuel. Oil diluted with fuel doesn't lubricate as well. If you are running the engine at normal temps, some of the fuel can evaporate (even if it washes past the rings). But daily drivers typically don't always heat up fully on short runs and city driving can increase soot accumulation..... causing more regens.

 

[Too Tall]

The delo is fine. They are all the same. My last cummins had no egr and the oil stayed about as clean as my gas burner also.

 

[ARedmon]

What is the oil that comes in the motor from the factory? Is it Shell Rotella T5 or Shell Rotella T6, or is it Mobil One ?

They come from the factory with Valvoling Premium Blue Extreme (synthetic) 5w40. If you get it changed at the dealer, Mopar Max Pro is going to be Rotella T3 or you can choose to use Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic. Cummins is under contract with Valvoline. FCA is under contract with Pennzoil/Rotella.

 

[Cummins2014]

They come from the factory with Valvoling Premium Blue Extreme (synthetic) 5w40. If you get it changed at the dealer, Mopar Max Pro is going to be Rotella T3 or you can choose to use Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic. Cummins is under contract with Valvoline. FCA is under contract with Pennzoil/Rotella.

That makes sense since Rotella Dino or synthetic are the two mentioned in the manual . I have never run anything in my diesel trucks but Rotella T3 15W-40 , which is now T4

 

[Newsa]

Just curious if there are any CJ-4 motor oils that we should avoid? I assumed all CJ-4 oils were OK for our dPF's and SCR's. But i noticed that some of these oils have titanium &/or and zddp additives? They advertise to be good for exhaust systems including SCR/DPF. I only consider CJ-4 rated. Are there some CJ-4's we should avoid?

 

[Killer223]

not really, as long as it have the api and meets the cj-4 spec, it'll be fine.
i/ve run tractor supply 15/40, no issues. you can look into more at https://bobistheoilguy.com walmart supertech is a great oil.
any that meet the spec will do you just fine.

 

[Newsa]

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/truth-synthetics-way-just-extra-hp/

 

[JR]

Sheesh, only 87k miles on that car and both engine and trans have been replaced...

I remember my grandfather telling stories about having to light fires under equipment to get it running during the war in Germany. Said if it got down around zero you could pull the plug and the oil would ooze out like molasses.

 

[Newsa]

Sheesh, only 87k miles on that car and both engine and trans have been replaced...

I remember my grandfather telling stories about having to light fires under equipment to get it running during the war in Germany. Said if it got down around zero you could pull the plug and the oil would ooze out like molasses.

Todays conventional oils are better than WWII era oils. But it is interesting reading about how nitrogenated, sulfated, oxygenated and polyoxygenated (non hydrocarbon) organic conpounds can still be floating around in brand new oil. I think maybe the CJ4+ has to be ultra low sulfer??????? But some of the metal they speak of are additionally concerning.

I think the DPF's (even when using CJ4+ oils and ULSD) are gradually clogged with contaminates during use that will not burn off during regens. ..... and are considered disposable after 8 years or 80,000 miles? Sometimes sooner.

 

[mfurrh55]

I run Shaefers full synthetic 15-40 w/Baldwin filter specific for synthetic oils

 

[w6pea]

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/truth-synthetics-way-just-extra-hp/

Boy that was an interesting read. Thanks for posting the link.

 

[Randy_F]

Rotella T6 5w40, and a Carquest 96332 oil filter. FYI, The Carquest 96332 is the Baldwin BD7317 Dual Flow oil filter. Got mine for under $10. Google these Dual Flow filter benefits, and you'll switch, too. These actually catch most of the suspended soot in the oil. Google these dual flow filters. They're pretty impressive at removing even the SOOT that's suspended in the oil.

 

[RGuzzo]

always used rotella 15 40 until I found out there is 2 different shell rotella 15 40 the lesser of the 2 being sold at places like wally world sam and such the higher quality one usually can be purchased at truck parts stores I never had a problem with either one but when I found out I switched over cenpeco 15 40 para syn in all 7 cumm 2 Mercedes and 1 john deere its more expensive but I like knowing its all the same stuff never had a problem with any of them but I do change them all before they really need to be changed

 

[kthaxton]

always used rotella 15 40 until I found out there is 2 different shell rotella 15 40 the lesser of the 2 being sold at places like wally world sam and such the higher quality one usually can be purchased at truck parts stores

Can you share your source for this info?

 

[Jared Herzog]

I changed my oil last weekend and just went with the Mopar oil i got from a friend at the dealer when i bought the truck. I also went with the fleetguard stratapore filter. I have been running Rotella T6 up until now. I have six gallons ready and paid for that are cj4 rated. I did not use them because i do not know what to do and am a bit chapped. I called Shell and talked to their tech and engineering department. I was told i have the new bottle which says cj4 but is ck4. It only had to be correctly marked after the first of January and i stocked up before the oil spec changed. So it is either return the stuff or use it. Shell says it is fine to use and has Cummins stamp but i am concerned that Ford has rejected it. Is phosphorus as necessary as it once was? I know different motor but is the oil ok? Shopping around i can only find motorcraft in a cj4. And yes i am terrible with change. I like to stick with what works and do not trust the EPA to look after my trucks longevity but rather line their own pockets.#ad

New bottle ck4 even if marked cj4 on the top. Lower bottle is the old cj4

 

[JR]

Since Ford won't comment on the specific problem they're seeing in their engines I'm assuming it's a design deficiency unique to their platform. Just look for Cummins CES 20086 on any CK4 bottle, it is their stamp of approval and includes several ISB tests.

 

[Newsa]

I thought all ck4+ also meet cj4+????

It's just an additional tested quality standard above the CJ4?

But also good for our emissions?