I hit the 200k Milestone with my 2014 RAM 3500 Tradesman Crew Cab 4x4 and AS69RC

[Jared Herzog]

I had a fumoto on a past sold truck. They have a clip that goes on the valve. There is no way that clip is coming off without pliers or a saw. I need to get one for my ram still.

 

[Newsa]

When I want accurate and applicable advice on my truck, I sometimes will search for "Radio Flyer" on TDR. I am confident I can trust the advise coming from some of these high mileage drivers as well as those like Bob4x4 and Sag2 with more inside info. Also appreciate the advise of AH64ID and Rvtruckn as well as others.

I appreciate this thread because I believe one or both of my original OEM batteries have crapped out. So I came straight back to this thread that has battery advise. Last night my batteries wouldn't turn over the engine. Needless to say we took the car last night instead of the truck. I looked at both batteries and noticed the + terminal of the drivers side battery is covered with blueish green corrosion that makes it difficult to see the positive terminal. Thinking about seeing if I can clean it up and maybe slow charge it on 2 amps for an hour and see if it will start. I know these AGM batteries don't like a fast charge.

I have an Advance Auto Parts store just 6 blocks away, but sometimes I think if they don't have the exact part in stock, they try to sell you one that is close. When it comes to batteries and these electrical systems, I sort of want to know I have the right part. It is worth it to replace them so I don't get stranded.

The battery life may have been shortened by the defective alternator that was replaced under recall about 6 months ago.

September 18th will be my 4 year anniversary on these batts (46 months). It's shorter life than I expected, but Ce La Vie! I've heard mixed reports on these batteries anywhere from 2 years to 12 yrs?

Edit: I know that presence of corrosion doesn't necessarily mean the batteries are bad. It just means I've sort of neglected to check them every 6 months. Lol

 

[Cummins12V98]

My DR brush mower LONG brand battery is 20 years old, never removed it fires the 15hp Kawasaki off every spring.

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Newsa, so, the factory batteries on all late-model Diesel Rams are AGMs?

 

[Newsa]

Newsa, so, the factory batteries on all late-model Diesel Rams are AGMs?

I believe so. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Cool! I didn't realize that. Of coarse, I didn't realize that wiring diagrams don't come with the service manual CD. That bummed me out.

 

[Newsa]

My Dealer parts dept didn't have a sale on the OEM batteries. I bought 2 OEM batts at $184.00 each. Minus the core charge (switched them out in the parking lot myself), with tax and disposal fee, the damage was total. $399 & change.

Felt is was fair because the Autocrafts at the local Advance Auto Parts store were over $200 each for all models (that fit my tradesman). And they didn't have any Optima's in stock. Plus the fact that the dealer will look them up by VIN, I know I'm getting the right part! The new ones were physically bigger than the originals that came from the factory. But since they were looked up by the last half of the VIN#, I can have confidence they are the right battery


I've had trouble with Advance Auto not honoring the warranty on the Autocracy batteries. And I told them That's why I refused to pay $200+ for batteries on which the warranty is no good. Years ago, my girlfriend's autocracy batteries crapped out 4-6 months before the warranty expired and when I pointed this out and asked for prorating credit on the new batts, they said they don't REALLY do that. Live and Learn!

 

[Kirwin]

Yes those group 94 batteries are priced like gold! I will shop my dealer and if they are close on price, I'll have him order in 2 fresh ones for me and replace them at 5 years. Whether they need it or not.

 

[Newsa]

Yes those group 94 batteries are priced like gold! I will shop my dealer and if they are close on price, I'll have him order in 2 fresh ones for me and replace them at 5 years. Whether they need it or not.

I doubt my dealer would order fresh since they had 16 in stock. I suspect the Florida heat did mine in. Or maybe the defective (recalled) alternator? You must know your dealer parts guy better than I know mine.

 

[TCollier]

The OEMs were still in my '06 when I sold it after 8 years. The truck would sit in a south Louisiana parking lot for 4 to 6 weeks at a time 8 months of the year. That's supposed to bad on batteries but they never failed. It would be nice to get the same service life from these.

 

[gsbrockman]

Love the mileage and maintenance updates

This thread seems to be the most logical one to continue some of my repair updates along the way.....so here goes.

Just last week, one (or more) of the front unit bearings developed some noise....I am at 266k miles currently. Upon doing some searching here and elsewhere, I ordered two new SKF BR930553s from eBay Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly SKF BR930553 fits 13-16 Ram 3500 | eBay
I got them for $196.59 each shipped.

The best deal I could get from my local dealer was about $318 each.....and they are supplied to mopar / AAM by SKF.

Additionally.....I did order two new front axle u-joints. Zero problems with the axle u-joints, but I am gonna change them while I am in that deep.

 

[gsbrockman]

Between a few items ordered from my local dealer, and a visit by the ol Brown Truck, I am all set for my installer Saturday morning....

The Radio Flyer is getting two new SKF front wheel unit bearings. While I am at it, it would be nuts to not replace both front axle U-joints. The unit bearings had a combined shipping weight of about 46 lbs....so they weigh in around 23 lbs each.

I also have a set of OEM front brake pads as well as a set of rear brake pads. On a side note....these are NOT the Value Line. If I / we deem them worn enough, they will be replaced at the same time.

Other items include two new air filters and a sump filter for the AISIN AS69RC transmission.

 

[gsbrockman]

As of today, I have two new front unit bearings and two new front axle U-joints installed in The Radio Flyer.

As always, I include as many part numbers as I can.

Wheel Bearings
SKF # BR930553
I paid $196.59 each....see previous link from eBay.

OEM Front Axle U-Joints
68065428AC
List is $142.00 each and I paid $107.58 each.

Mileage was 268,791 with 474 idle hours and 4,978 drive hours.

I have also included a few pics of the installation.

Everything went flawlessly and there were no issues. One minor encounter we had involved the caliper slides on both front calipers. The upper ones were nice and greasy, but both lower ones were beginning to get some rusting. This was remedied by cleaning the caliper pins and greasing them.

 

[gsbrockman]

I also purchased new front brake pads as well as rear brake pads.

At this time----I opted to install neither as my installer and I both agreed there was still some decent life left in both of them......as evidenced by the picture of the front brake pads below.

Again....these, too, are OEM with 268,791 miles of use.

 

[gsbrockman]

In the past, I had worked retail in an automotive tire retail sales environment with about 17 years of experience between about 3 locations.

Ball joints were somewhat problematic in the 2nd GEN trucks with the DANA axles, and as part of the R&R process, it was always a crapshoot if the unit bearings would come out. Generally....there was a high probability that they would be seized / rusted in the axle housing.

The design of the hub unit bearings (at least in the 2013 & up trucks) make removal of them much less difficult.

Granted my bearings were removed for front axle seals at about 229k miles, but even at that mileage, they came out easy.

As you can see by the pictures, the hub unit bearings only make contact at four points inside the axle housing.

Also pictured is the ABS sensor location. As posted by another member, some remove the sensor and inject grease into the unit, greatly extending the life of the unit bearings.

The R/F hub unit bearing was replaced first. It did not feel that bad.

The L/F hub unit bearing was toast. Even turning by hand, one could easily feel the wear in the bearing. There was enough notchiness within the bearing that it almost would lock up when turning in a few certain positions.

On a side note.....all of the front axle U-joints were still in great shape. None of them were dry or rusty.

The Radio Flyer is all nice & quite once again.....and ready to start earning more money on Monday morning.

 

[Wayne M.]

Thanks for the updates!

 

[Newsa]

Thanks for the updates!

Yeah. I have packed (greased) front wheel. Bearings on rear wheel drive vehicles. But not sure I would be able to do my own (cerrent signature) 4×4. It would be a learning experience if I did. And would need to borrow or invest in tool (s).

Anybody greasing/repacking these things?

Or is it best to leave them alone until it makes a bit of noise or vibration? Seems like messing with them to (regularly) maintain them is not worth the effort if they last 1/4 of a million miles leaving them alone

I'm getting the impression that it's best to leave them alone.

 

[JR]

Greg, who makes the OEM universal joints?

Are the SKF wheel bearings you bought the same part number as the OEM SKF?

Thanks for the updates, always good to see how these trucks are performing on the long term.

 

[JR]

Yeah. I have packed (greased) front wheel. Bearings on rear wheel drive vehicles. But not sure I would be able to do my own (cerrent signature) 4×4. It would be a learning experience if I did. And would need to borrow or invest in tool (s).

Anybody greasing/repacking these things?

Or is it best to leave them alone until it makes a bit of noise or vibration? Seems like messing with them to (regularly) maintain them is not worth the effort if they last 1/4 of a million miles leaving them alone

I'm getting the impression that it's best to leave them alone.

You don't need to pull them apart to grease them, simply pull the abs sensor apart and grease with a grease gun and needle attachment. How much they really need is an unknown to me. If they are dry around the seals I'd be leary of greasing them at low mileages, too much grease adds unnecessary heat and puts pressure on the seals. In extreme cases of over greasing the seals could be compromised.

 

[truckmen]

On December 22nd, I hit the 200k mile mark with The Radio Flyer while delivering this stack of trailers to Hopf Equipment in Huntingburg, IN (all trailers weighed in at 14,470 lbs per MSO's...I'm guessing GCW was 23,570 lbs)
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I was already dressed and just took a swig of dental rinse when I remembered I needed to start up my truck, as it had been warmer the last night or two and I didn't use the block heater. I go outside, wait for the diesel pre-heat to cycle, then only get a "click" #ad


Looking at your idle time, I guess I DO idle mine too much.