CCV filter @57,149 miles pics

[ddivinia]

Wow - this video sure makes it look easy.

https://youtu.be/Vua7e1rSgjI

I wonder what else the dealer is doing that makes that maintenance so expensive.

D.

 

[ddivinia]

I had the dealer do the 67,500 maintenance on my 2012 and after they got done it needed a new EGR. Covered under warranty but they for sure screwed it up.

D.

 

[Newsa]

Sludgy looking and heavy with oil glad I changed this earlier than the required 67,500 interval.

Not any sludge or milky residue on mine despite some city driving. I wonder if the sludge is more common in colder climates?

I changed mine at 41,660 miles because it says to do it at 54 months of ownership.

Edit::::: Or maybe it's that high qualify synthetic oil that I use that doesn't froth up and retain moisture?

Lately, I've been using either Redline 15w 40 or Kendall Super D XA 15w 40. Both are owned by Phillips 66 .

 

[14ram]

Wow - this video sure makes it look easy.

https://youtu.be/Vua7e1rSgjI

I wonder what else the dealer is doing that makes that maintenance so expensive.

D.

I had a toyota fleet manager tell me awhile back the dealership makes 20% of the revenue in car sales and 80% in the service department. I have been a shadetree mechanic for over 25 years changing this ccv filter is extremely simple the hardest part for me was unclipping the electrical connector. At $100+ per hour shop rates it pays to learn some basic tool skills.

 

[14ram]

Your filter looks good was it heavy with oil? Your also the first person I’ve seen mention the 54 months I stumbled upon that info here http://www.cumminshub.com/6.7-cummins-maintenance-schedule.html a couple of years ago and bookmarked it.

Post for newsa forgot to quote....

 

[Newsa]

I had a toyota fleet manager tell me awhile back the dealership makes 20% of the revenue in car sales and 80% in the service department. I have been a shadetree mechanic for over 25 years changing this ccv filter is extremely simple the hardest part for me was unclipping the electrical connector. At $100+ per hour shop rates it pays to learn some basic tool skills.

Yes, the electrical connector seemed difficult the first time because they seemed to put something on at the factory that makes it harder to remove the first time. It's like the aluminum seal on the oil jugs, but different. I accidentally pulled the red tab conpletely off but was able to slide it back in.

Your filter looks good was it heavy with oil? Your also the first person I’ve seen mention the 54 months I stumbled upon that info here http://www.cumminshub.com/6.7-cummins-maintenance-schedule.html a couple of years ago and bookmarked it.

Post for newsa forgot to quote....

Not heavy. I know others have weighed theirs. Light film of oil was expected. The element had oil in it. But is have gone easily another 20-25,000 miles.

Mostly, I was curious to take it apart and see if I had any moisture , frothing, or milky residue from some of my shorter trips and just to assess condition.

Edit: I did observe something unexpected. After changing the cab filter and putting it back together, I noticed the oil on the dipstick went up a little ( maybe 1/8-3/16 in). Maybe some oil drainef down to the pan? After running it, oil level went back to where it had previously been.

 

[6V92TA]

Newsa, a disptick is not the most accurate device in the world nor should anyone think it is all that accurate.

you can be parked on a slight incline. time for the oil to settle. oil temperature etc ..

 

[JR]

Newsa, a disptick is not the most accurate device in the world

But it is close enough, for a dipstick at least :-laf

 

[Newsa]

Newsa, a disptick is not the most accurate device in the world nor should anyone think it is all that accurate.

you can be parked on a slight incline. time for the oil to settle. oil temperature etc ..

Yeah, I realize that. But when parked at the same place in the driveway, I get pretty consistent dipstick readings. Except when there is some fuel dilution, and the level oil level in the sump starts rising, higher oil level is exacerbated by more oil being syphoned out (I think by pressure diffs) of the full flow oil filter.

The engine was completely cool with the higher level I observed, because I made sure it was cool before changing the filter. It was warmer after I test drove it and let the oil drain back to the pan.

 

[6V92TA]

Newsa, as long as its not below the add mark don't overanalyze it.. like they say, don't sweat the petty things, pet the sweaty things.

 

[Dasmoeturhead]

Not any sludge or milky residue on mine despite some city driving. I wonder if the sludge is more common in colder climates?

I changed mine at 41,660 miles because it says to do it at 54 months of ownership.

Edit::::: Or maybe it's that high qualify synthetic oil that I use that doesn't froth up and retain moisture?

Lately, I've been using either Redline 15w 40 or Kendall Super D XA 15w 40. Both are owned by Phillips 66 .

Mine looked the same as yours at 68,000 miles. Half of the miles were towing my 18,000 lb 5th wheel trailer. I use 15/40 Rotella T4, and or T5. I only go 7500 miles between oil changes. Always run with EB on, and TH when needed. It doesn't use oil yet. I've got 1,674 hrs total. 1517 driving, and 158 at idle.
I did not clean the EGR, but I have the gasket kit just in case I get bored, and want to turn my hands black:-laf.

 

[Newsa]

Newsa, as long as its not below the add mark don't overanalyze it.. like they say, don't sweat the petty things, pet the sweaty things.

Found an excellent video on blinker fluid.

Watching it kept me from petting the sweaty things

https://youtu.be/E6GsXhBb10k