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G-plus radiator

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Transmission oil pre-cooler

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This is all good news Nick. 10 degrees is a big difference and keeping the transmission cooler will help keep things working better longer too.
Keep us posted!

Michael

I agree, I think everything will benefit with a 10* drop, in general, in the long haul. Case in point...my '91 Dodge and Ford Cummins both use 180* thermostats oem. The head gaskets, tappet cover gasket and ('91)vacuum pump seals are all original. My '01 uses 190* oem….it has had them all replaced, the vacuum pump seals twice.

Note what Cummins says about coolant temps in my Re-power book. I am thinking the higher temps we see on the newer trucks are mostly emissions driven and not what's best for the engine. Fuel, engine oil, IAT temps will be cooler across the board, a win win. Fuel/injector VP pump, running cooler has to be a good thing.

Nick

cummins B&C series.jpeg
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I agree, I think everything will benefit with a 10* drop, in general, in the long haul. Case in point...my '91 Dodge and Ford Cummins both use 180* thermostats oem. The head gaskets, tappet cover gasket and ('91)vacuum pump seals are all original. My '01 uses 190* oem….it has had them all replaced, the vacuum pump seals twice.

Note what Cummins says about coolant temps in my Re-power book. I am thinking the higher temps we see on the newer trucks are mostly emissions driven and not what's best for the engine. Fuel, engine oil, IAT temps will be cooler across the board, a win win. Fuel/injector VP pump, running cooler has to be a good thing.

Nick

View attachment 108218 View attachment 108219
Nick, the Cummins Re-power book is interesting reading and thank you for posting online. Since you are in high ambient temperatures during the summer months and with higher sustained engine temperatures have you tried using a 15 psi radiator cap as suggested?
My 1999 6 speed truck as you know came with a 180 degree thermostat along with a 16 psi radiator cap and up to this point the gaskets and seals are all original like your gen one and repowered Ford 350.
Was wondering if cooling down idling down is better and or faster with the 180 thermostat, Cummins 10 blade fan and Hayden fan clutch?
Let me know when you can and keep us posted.

Michael
 
Yes, I am running a 15 lb cap. The plastic 10 blade fan is on my Ford. I am still using the oem 7 blade metal one on my '01. I was looking at Geno's 9 blade plastic one but I am thinking I may not need it now. I have not ever had a problem with excess coolant escaping to the overflow bottle. Just the normal 1 pint or so hot, then overnight it goes back.

At idle or down hill, the temps stay at about 178/180, cruising at low power it stays at about 188. On the first heat up of the day it will cycle to about 195 before it opens the first time, then settles down after that.

Nick
 
Yes, I am running a 15 lb cap. The plastic 10 blade fan is on my Ford. I am still using the oem 7 blade metal one on my '01. I was looking at Geno's 9 blade plastic one but I am thinking I may not need it now. I have not ever had a problem with excess coolant escaping to the overflow bottle. Just the normal 1 pint or so hot, then overnight it goes back.

At idle or down hill, the temps stay at about 178/180, cruising at low power it stays at about 188. On the first heat up of the day it will cycle to about 195 before it opens the first time, then settles down after that.

Nick
Sounds like you have found a good combination to keep the engine cool. Hope this continues to work for a long time.

Michael
 
I finally got to put the all metal radiator to the test. Pulling a 34 ft loaded enclosed trailer, about 11,000 pounds across the rolling hills of west TX. 95 degrees, 15-20 mph headwind the temp gauge settled about a needle width below the 190 mark. If the needle crept up to 190 while going up hill the fan clutch engaged and the needle would drop to a couple needle widths below the 190 mark, or more if the hill crest was achieved and going back down, then disengage. After delivering the trailer, AC on (of course) the temp gauge held steady about 1/4 inch below the 190 mark. If passing through a town and stopping at a red light the fan clutch would engage for a short time while pulling away.
 
Coolness, Lol It sounds like another heavy Phoenix to Flagstaff pull, will be AC on!

I hauled a load of cinders (26K) yesterday. From a stop, to 65mph on a two mile long 3-4% grade (91* AC on) mine got up to 208*. The first trip of the day, same load same hill (78* no AC) I saw 198*, the third trip, small load 21K, (97* AC on) I saw 204. At the top of the hill as it levels off, the temps drop immediately, every trip.

I have helped the overheating issue about 50% so far. Just waiting on a long 6% grade for a real good test. I am thinking my two Mopar, 24Valve fan clutches were/are just set for to high of a temp. It sounds like yours is right on.
 
I hope I never have to pull a heavy trailer over that route again, better cooling not withstanding. If I get tasked again Wolf Creek Pass will add to the customer's cost of the trip. It is nice to not have to turn off the AC under high power demands.
 
I found a load that met the match. 13' 6" tall, 8000+ pounds and worse aerodynamics than a brick. 15 pounds of boost and 900 egt to pull it on flat ground, no wind, 57 mph. It requires power to descend a 6% grade and maintain 55 mph. I saw 200-210 crossing MT on I-90 with the outside temps at only 85 degrees while climbing hills. I didn't have to turn off the AC though.

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I found a load that met the match. 13' 6" tall, 8000+ pounds and worse aerodynamics than a brick. 15 pounds of boost and 900 egt to pull it on flat ground, no wind, 57 mph. It requires power to descend a 6% grade and maintain 55 mph. I saw 200-210 crossing MT on I-90 with the outside temps at only 85 degrees while climbing hills. I didn't have to turn off the AC though.

Is that the same one you hauled from Montana to West Virginia about 8 years ago? Imagine the power required to pull it 70 mph!

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/posts/2325963/
 
The same type. I was thinking I must have pulled all the others in cooler months (there have been several) but that post reminded me the safety blitz is in the summer. I wonder if the water pump could be faulty. This one has 285k on it. I think a new 4th gen would have difficulty getting one up to 70.
 
The same type. I was thinking I must have pulled all the others in cooler months (there have been several) but that post reminded me the safety blitz is in the summer. I wonder if the water pump could be faulty. This one has 285k on it. I think a new 4th gen would have difficulty getting one up to 70.

I haven't figured it out but when I am in the Northern states pulling the 5ver the truck actually feels and drives like it lost 100hp. When I got back to Az. going up some of the steep inclines it returned to pulling like a freight train. Don't know if it is air density, fuel, truck just does not like going North, I just do not know.

Dave
 
I haven't figured it out but when I am in the Northern states pulling the 5ver the truck actually feels and drives like it lost 100hp. When I got back to Az. going up some of the steep inclines it returned to pulling like a freight train. Don't know if it is air density, fuel, truck just does not like going North, I just do not know.

Dave

I think it might be that most of the plains states are so flat for so many miles that you can get an optical illusion, it looks flat but is actually up hill.

In Arizona it is up or down:)
 
I think it might be that most of the plains states are so flat for so many miles that you can get an optical illusion, it looks flat but is actually up hill.

In Arizona it is up or down:)

I will buy that, at least that is an answer. Been to Minot visiting the daughter and both times the truck acted like that. Always had me wondering what was going on.

Dave
 
Altitude does have an impact for sure.

After my last post the gears started turning. Pump fins don't wear out and it isn't leaking BUT serpentine belts do wear out. If a slightly stretched belt can cause an alternator to under perform can the same be true of the water pump? We will find out soon. I replaced the belt and I still have the trailer, it was held up for non-payment and could be returned to Billings. At the very least it has a bit over 200 miles to it's destination, which will take me through Houston. Plenty warm there.
 
A new belt was probably a good call. Does your tensioner feel stout? I don't think the water pump has any wear items, however, they do make two different styles. I have used both but I have no clue of any difference in performance. Do you know which one you have? My belt and tensioner are both new as is my water pump.

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I will buy that, at least that is an answer. Been to Minot visiting the daughter and both times the truck acted like that. Always had me wondering what was going on.

Dave

I have a portable Garmin GPS that I monitor elevation with, it is a digital readout so it can change by the foot. It will surprise you when you think you are going down hill or at least level and it is clicking upwards. Another good source are rivers. You can swear you are going down hill but the truck is pulling hard so you look at the river and yup, you are going up hill. I have traveled that country a lot so I know what you are talking about. I have been fooled a lot thinking the brakes were dragging or it was windy or I got a bad batch of fuel and the truck is sick.
 
I am going to have to look at my Garmin and Rand Mcnally for an elevation tab. Seems I have seen it just have to find it again. That is good info and to keep my sanity (what's left anyway).

Dave
 
I have always been interested in elevation in my travels, I don't know why, I am not a pilot..Lol Here are my two old school altimeters in my old Fords, they are probably 30-years old:)

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Those can be handy for knowing if you are climbing or descending, but checking actual elevation above sea level requires knowing what the barometric pressure is. Aircraft altimeters have a knob to adjust the setting. Aviation weather and/or ATCs in the tower tell a pilot the current pressure.
 
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