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‘06 Pyro location.

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Poor fuel Mileage

Using Jacobs exhaust brake from 2006 on a 2nd gen swap

I’m trying to prevent my friends kid from melting down his ‘06 5.9. He has the EGT install done but is scared to drill the manifold. I know there’s a casting rib in there. So, can anyone layout where to plunge the drill?
Thanks as always!
 
Here you go sir
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Measurement taken from the center of the 3rd manifold bolt from the rear.
 
I tapped right at the thick part on the collector flange. I pulled the inner plastic fender well out to get to it. I think something was in the way to get to the rear cylinder hole. The cast iron is thick here. Along the top of the manifold, the metal isn't the thickest. For 1/8th NPT you use a "R" letter drill and a 1/8NPT tap if the fitting takes a taper thread. Grease the drill bit to catch the chips. The hole is where the silver plug is. I put a different manifold on and am selling this one so I plugged the tapped hole.
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Grease the tap to catch most of the chips. Before installing the probe, start the engine and it will blow most chips out. Any left will harmlessly go down the exhaust
 
I tapped right at the thick part on the collector flange. I pulled the inner plastic fender well out to get to it. I think something was in the way to get to the rear cylinder hole. The cast iron is thick here. Along the top of the manifold, the metal isn't the thickest. For 1/8th NPT you use a "R" letter drill and a 1/8NPT tap if the fitting takes a taper thread. Grease the drill bit to catch the chips. The hole is where the silver plug is. I put a different manifold on and am selling this one so I plugged the tapped hole.View attachment 109076 Grease the tap to catch most of the chips. Before installing the probe, start the engine and it will blow most chips out. Any left will harmlessly go down the exhaust
A slight change of subject, I researched a few years ago about installing a EGT sensor, and many opinions on the method. Grease with the drill/tap was one method which I didn't use. (nothing personal) The theory why, is that the shavings with grease on them that get into the Turbo will stick to the vanes. I chose drilling dry using a strong vacuum while I drilled, and now have 30K+ miles.
 
have a hundred and two thousand on the 2007 and had the same gauge and pyro probe in my 2001.5 for 127,000 miles done the way I posted. Using a vacuum is a good idea too. The greased drill and tap was the direction from the forums back in 2001 when I put it into the first truck.
 
Ya, like I posted, many different methods used. One of the reasons why I chose dry drilling with a vacuum was because of the DPF. I didn't want greae possibly getting to the DPF, if it were to get past the Turbo. I also chose to tap it at the "Y" of the exhaust manifold to get all cylinders temperatures as an average.
 
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