Here I am

6.7 Gives up the Ghost at 41K! Reman sounds HORRIBLE

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

12v outlet adapter/splitter?

2014 4x4 drw sits 2" lower on the driver side rear

Status
Not open for further replies.
New member here! First major issue with my 2016 and it doesn't get much worse.. Broken Valve Spring did its destruction. No found cause or explanation but thank God there was warranty!
This was supposed to be my forever truck. But talk about losing trust. Particularly with how well maintained this truck has been. I might have been able to let the memory fade with a replacement engine but this Reman from Cummins sounds like an early 80's GM 6.2, with more rattles and chatter than I ever signed up for.
It's to the point that I almost can't stand driving the damn thing. The chattering when under load is the worst part. And the dealer tech, although agreeing there is a definite "sound", can't seem to form an opinion on the cause. Since it's only under load or between gear changes (68RFE) and doesn't increase with engine speed but gets louder, it seems like a fueling issue of some sort.
All that said, I'm curious if anyone else who's had a reman replacement installed has found similar issues?

2016 Ram 2500 68RFE, Stock 6.7
 
I am really sorry that you are having this experience - this is certainly not the norm for these engines.

It may not be an engine problem. A lot of stuff has to be removed from the engine, and components get pushed round in the engine compartment during engine removal and installation. Depending on how carefully the work is done, any of this "stuff" can get tweaked or re-attached improperly resulting in normal engine pulses and frequencies being transferred to the truck frame or truck body . The frame or body can actually amplify those frequencies as noise. This could be what you are hearing.

I would check the exhaust piping, engine, bell housing, transmission, transfer case, etc. to be sure there is no contact to the body or the frame. I am not positive for a 2016 truck, but most engines / transmissions are mounted using three points - one on each side of the engine and one under the transmission. These points are the only points the that should have contact with the frame through an insulated mount.

If you can find someone around that understands NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness), it would be worth your time to have that person listen to your truck.

- John
 
Thanks John. I've been checking all of those things and ruled out harmonics. Narrowed it down to either the Injector pump or the EGR Bypass actuator/Valve. Wish I had a small volunteer to climb up in the engine bay while I drive to listen! LoL. Gotta be found because besides driving me crazy... it ain't normal. And judging by my trip to the dealer, it's evident it's on ME to find it before another catastrophe
 
Has valve lash been checked? It shouldn't need it at a brand new engine but worth checking if you think its in the top end.

A new engine eating itself at so few miles is very rare - but like anything man made is subject to loose ends. A Cummins reman (not Joe schmoe rebuild) should be top notch quality. I wouldn't accept the answer you've gotten either. Perhaps a new dealer is in your future. Does your dealership sell alot of diesel trucks? Do they have a legitimate diesel tech on the clock?
The two closest dealerships to me have neither, I have to drive well over an hour to find one that does. And it's worth every mile considering the incompetence of the two closer shops.
 
Piston and cylinder wall damage?

ReMan? HMMMM

Oh yeah. Piston was literally broke in two and Cylinder wall beyond repair. Which made me happy in a way because if it's gonna go under warranty, it may as well go all the way!
Can't argue with Chrysler on New or Remanufactured. You get what you get and CAN'T throw a fit, apparently. But some would say there are many reasons a Reman is actually better... Not so far!
 
Oh yeah. Piston was literally broke in two and Cylinder wall beyond repair. Which made me happy in a way because if it's gonna go under warranty, it may as well go all the way!
Can't argue with Chrysler on New or Remanufactured. You get what you get and CAN'T throw a fit, apparently. But some would say there are many reasons a Reman is actually better... Not so far!

Maybe it is time for your dealer to drive it over to a Cummins dealer and ask them what they think? Or you can drive it there and ask if they are willing to have a mechanic listen to one of THIER re-manufactured engine that does not sound right. If they Cummins sold FCA the re-manufactured engine, they have a little skin in the game. Just my thoughts of what I would do if it was me.
 
Last edited:
Has valve lash been checked? It shouldn't need it at a brand new engine but worth checking if you think its in the top end.

A new engine eating itself at so few miles is very rare - but like anything man made is subject to loose ends. A Cummins reman (not Joe schmoe rebuild) should be top notch quality. I wouldn't accept the answer you've gotten either. Perhaps a new dealer is in your future. Does your dealership sell alot of diesel trucks? Do they have a legitimate diesel tech on the clock?
The two closest dealerships to me have neither, I have to drive well over an hour to find one that does. And it's worth every mile considering the incompetence of the two closer shops.

I thought about valve lash except the rattle doesn't increase in speed with the engine, at all.. just gets louder.
It is a Cummins Reman. And that's a bright spot in all this but I know enough to know it isn't right and will likely lead to something more problematic if not found!
I bought my truck out in the Rocky Mountain region, where there's many more Diesels in driveways. Not so much back here in Ohio. So I think you're right, it's gonna be a matter of finding the right dealership with a tech that's seen more issues!

Thanks Jr!
 
Maybe it is time for your dealer to drive it over to a Cummins dealer and ask them what they think? Or you can drive it there and ask if they are willing to have a mechanic listen to one of THIER re-manufactured engines that does not sound right. If they Cummins sold FCA the re-manufactured engine, they have a little skin in the game. Just my thoughts of what I would do if it was me.

Agreed! I'm gonna give another dealer I have in mind a shot first. It's not a "Turn up the radio" type thing that can be ignored, for sure. If I have to do a bit of maneuvering to get something done, I'm all for it!
 
Mike I don't know what part of Ohio your from but if your anywhere near Chardon Junction Auto has treated me well the two times I've had my truck in.
I would try a different dealership before a Cummins shop, your warranty is through FCA. Visiting a Cummins shop will cost you out of pocket. Your warranty doesn't mean anything to them.
Good luck and let us know how things turnout.
 
Check your mounting studs and nuts on the HP pump. We’ve had several back off leaving the pump “floating” there. It’s pretty noisy.

|Scott
 
Mike I don't know what part of Ohio your from but if your anywhere near Chardon Junction Auto has treated me well the two times I've had my truck in.
I would try a different dealership before a Cummins shop, your warranty is through FCA. Visiting a Cummins shop will cost you out of pocket. Your warranty doesn't mean anything to them.
Good luck and let us know how things turnout.

In down near Cincy, unfortunately. But I'd make the 4.5 Hour drive if it becomes necessary. Thanks Jr!
 
Check your mounting studs and nuts on the HP pump. We’ve had several back off leaving the pump “floating” there. It’s pretty noisy.

|Scott

All is good there. But it's funny you say that because my ear tells me at idle that the IP is what's making the noise. Like the gears on the shaft aren't "PHASED" properly! I know there's been lots of debate about that.. and again, I wish I had a small person who could ride up under the hood while I'm driving to put an ear on it! LMAO

Mike
 
All is good there. But it's funny you say that because my ear tells me at idle that the IP is what's making the noise. Like the gears on the shaft aren't "PHASED" properly! I know there's been lots of debate about that.. and again, I wish I had a small person who could ride up under the hood while I'm driving to put an ear on it! LMAO

Mike

If the CP3 is making noise it will last about 3 Seconds and BOOM, if the Pump is backing out it will be movable by hand, from top or bottom..

Broken Valve spring is not likely to cause the destruction that happen to this engine.. when the spring breaks it usually just drops the valve, and it makes one hellva racked and just shutdown and New Valve and piston and all good..... My guess grid-Heater bolt... and the two cases its happen here (at our Dealership) it was complete engine New.
 
I also agree that it is unlikely a valve spring broke. It is more likely you had a valve head cut off by a dirty injector. I would probably want to have the injectors tested, unless they came with the new long block.
 
If the CP3 is making noise it will last about 3 Seconds and BOOM, if the Pump is backing out it will be movable by hand, from top or bottom..

Broken Valve spring is not likely to cause the destruction that happen to this engine.. when the spring breaks it usually just drops the valve, and it makes one hellva racked and just shutdown and New Valve and piston and all good..... My guess grid-Heater bolt... and the two cases its happen here (at our Dealership) it was complete engine New.


This rebuilt engine seems suspect to me.
 
Only because you asked twice about having a small person in the engine compartment. I recorded this about 5 years ago was heading to lunch and saw this going on..........

 
  • Like
Reactions: JR
I also agree that it is unlikely a valve spring broke. It is more likely you had a valve head cut off by a dirty injector. I would probably want to have the injectors tested, unless they came with the new long block.

Yup. It was a drop-in, plug and play. New injectors, turno, etc.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top