2018 DELETED, completely remove EGR assembly?

[SAP2018]

I recently deleted my 2018 Ram 2500 68RFE using double R diesel, truck runs amazing now, completely different truck and I’m on the 60hp tune (plan on keeping it there until I address weak transmission)

The EGR is deleted electronically, I asked Ray from DRD about the EGR, nothing even gets unplugged.
I ordered a EGR delete kit from dudes diesel performance (awesome guys by the way, Ray and Justin)
Is there a performance gain by installing the delete kit or is it mainly to avoid mechanical issues and clean up the engine bay? Reason I ask is I’d like to leave it all in place in case I need some type or work being done, it would be easier to re-install exhaust in case it needed to be taken back to the dealer for whatever reason.

Thanks in advance!

 

[TCDiesel]

1st I would ask the Delete provider if it was full delete or partial Delete. The EGR may be turned off, with the SCR functional

Your warranty on the powertrain Has been voided if FCA downloads the SGM, (Secure gateway module) it keeps records of all activity. The records are stored at FCA/Okta.

Every MIC II has its own fingerprint and the Fingerprint is registered to the Owner of the MIC II , You also must have WITECH and TechAUTH accounts.

Mopar spent over $10 Million in New vehicle Security, its unlikely any aftermarket Jailbreak is goona be able to be stealth.

 

[SAP2018]

1st I would ask the Delete provider if it was full delete or partial Delete. The EGR may be turned off, with the SCR functional

Your warranty on the powertrain Has been voided if FCA downloads the SGM, (Secure gateway module) it keeps records of all activity. The records are stored at FCA/Okta.

Every MIC II has its own fingerprint and the Fingerprint is registered to the Owner of the MIC II , You also must have WITECH and TechAUTH accounts.

Mopar spent over $10 Million in New vehicle Security, its unlikely any aftermarket Jailbreak is goona be able to be stealth.

It’s a FULL delete, no SCR. Not too worried about the warranty if that is the case, I’m more concerned with how the truck performs.

Just wondering if there is a gain other than engine bay access and possible future leaks.
I remember reading that the truck would be more responsive if the EGR crap was fully removed.

 

[TCDiesel]

SAP2018, I don't think that's the case. But its not that difficult to remove it.

Sap2018 , it your choice to delete. IMO 2013+ just don't have problems with the emissions intact...My2013 been error free and it dyno 460HP All OEM.

 

[Oil Stain]

Mine is a '12 and the only thing removed is the NOX/DPF.

 

[SAP2018]

Thank you very much guys, truck is already tuned and scr/cat removed, runs great!

Was just wondering if there was performance to be gained by removing the EGR (somehow choking the engine) is it prone to fail if left in the engine bay? Will it still be filled with soot eventually?

Sorry if these questions seem uneducated, this is my first diesel truck, gas LS engines is the majority of my experience.

 

[TCDiesel]

Yes.. But it will take Years....and it does aid in warming the coolant leaving it on.

 

[Jim W]

I would just block the EGR cooler output removing the cross over tube and eliminate the EGR valve at the Air inlet horn. This is what I have done with my truck and I have been this way for 10 years now. See photo.

 

[Wiredawg]

I would just block the EGR cooler output removing the cross over tube and eliminate the EGR valve at the Air inlet horn. This is what I have done with my truck and I have been this way for 10 years now. See photo.View attachment 111660

 

[Wiredawg]

Is that a bypass oil filter?

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

It’s got FF on it, it’s a fuel filter.

 

[TCDiesel]

Its looks like it plumbed in Before the factory Filter also, Thats the correct method, I don't approve of the filter (Spin-ons) after factory canister (In Between CP3 and Canister).

 

[Jim W]

Will TCDiesel I do disagree with you on how I plumbed in my filter. It is plumbed in after the factory filter and before the CP3 pump. In my case the fuel filter FF5320 is rated at 2mu (not absolute) and the factory version is 5mu (not absolute). So, to me in my very limited experience in hydraulics (15 years leading a design team on Hydraulics at Cat.) it does not make sense to filter fluid through a 2 mu filter and than refilter this through a 5mu filter. The 2mu filter is doing all of the work and the 5mu is just on the truck for the ride.

I wanted the factory filter to filter the fuel first and than the secondary filter to pick-up any smaller size particles to protect the CP3 pump and injectors. My factory filter is changed every 15,000 miles and the secondary is done at 30,000 miles. Just my preferences.

 

[TCDiesel]

You will be shocked at what 25HG (GP) does to that Spin-on if the factory canisters...gets restricted.. or the bypass engages on that spin-on.

If you ever get contaminated fuel (Extremely rare) is setting you up for a BIG disappointment.

I trust canister filters WAAAAAAAAAAAY before most spin-ons and ratings go's in the toilet when the bypass engages or what % percentage at what PSI...

It will work just great at filtering fuel but it won't stop contaminated fuel. reverse the setup and your much better.

Ratings are very misleading on internal combustion certification.

 

[Ozymandias]

@Jim W
My setup is like TCDiesel says, the Spin-On does all the work and the drop-in OEM stayed in place as a last barrier in front of the CP3. So i dont change that Filter regularly just let it be there to safe big $$$$ in case i screw something up or get a batch of bad fuel.