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I may have to get a 68RFE in my new truck.

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Hey guys took if for a ride after I put more air in the Trailair and it seems maybe to ride a bit better however it needs a good bump to work not like in the video from that version is smooth and almost too active a suspension in my opinion if I could get mine to work like that one I would be one happy CAMPER LOL.


How is yours adjusted in reference to the yellow adjustment line?
 
Ok I think I may have figured something out the coupling on the above video is on the front of the kingpin which means you want to be further from the rear window of the truck I think there may be more leverage on the kingpin in that position so that is why its more active.
Mine is on the back of the kingpin which means the RV is closer to the rear window of the truck so that means less leverage to make the trailair work thats just my opinion guys, take a look at the video and what I am saying makes sense.
 
I had spoken to an engineer at Lippert and he seemed to think having the coupler on kingpin with the ball in front of the kingpin seemed to apply more leverage then just a regular fifth wheel and it does make sense as far as leverage is concerned.
 
I had spoken to an engineer at Lippert and he seemed to think having the coupler on kingpin with the ball in front of the kingpin seemed to apply more leverage then just a regular fifth wheel and it does make sense as far as leverage is concerned.


True.

I suggest also adding blocks under the hitch base so you have a solid platform. Since you sell them you should know what ANDERSEN recommends.

Look at the placement of the kingpin pressing down on your hitch it's behind the gooseneck ball attachment. That is placing the weight on the rear of the base and when braking or hitting bumps that base will move forward placing pressure on the front of the base. You need to tighten up that movement. But hey I am "Bad Mouthing". :cool:
 
This is what happens with the ANDERSEN. Simple drawing shows how the real world is. Is isn't all about downward forces as in their sales video. Oh, was that "bad mouthing" ?

You need to add enough air to align tip of arrow with shock cover bottom edge. With your weight it may take 70psi or so unloaded.

fullsizeoutput_1b74.jpeg
 
This is what happens with the ANDERSEN. Simple drawing shows how the real world is. Is isn't all about downward forces as in their sales video. Oh, was that "bad mouthing" ?

You need to add enough air to align tip of arrow with shock cover bottom edge. With your weight it may take 70psi or so unloaded.

View attachment 115194

Anything will bend or break given enough force, thats evident in that B&W hitch breaking apart. Its okay to point out things, nothing is perfect ,but when you keep refering to the Andersen as a folding hitch, thats bad mouthing ,and not necessary.

You know as well as I do they redesigned the Aluminum version after a couple of them bent the tubes. Also you know as well as I do ,there never was any damage to fifth wheel or truck, nor any fifth wheel coming loose from the truck. There have been no more problems that we have seen with them as far as that.

If that Andersen does not work with his Air ride hitch so be it, thats his problem the way its setup, not the hitches fault. There are a lot of combinations with conventional hitches thats just don't work with certain fifth wheels ,and setups.

IMO he should of stayed with the MorRyde ,and seen how it went. He could of always went out and spent a few grand trying different pin boxes. And again IMO he should go ,and put that MorRyde pin box back on , and give it a try, might surprise him.
 
IMO he should not turn that Andersen adapter around , sure it will give him more leverage on the pin box, BUT he is already behind his axle , turning that adapter around will put that fifth wheel 8 INCHES further to the rear. IMO thats TOO much.
 
Ok I think I may have figured something out the coupling on the above video is on the front of the kingpin which means you want to be further from the rear window of the truck I think there may be more leverage on the kingpin in that position so that is why its more active.
Mine is on the back of the kingpin which means the RV is closer to the rear window of the truck so that means less leverage to make the trailair work thats just my opinion guys, take a look at the video and what I am saying makes sense.

I already pointed this out above ,but you do realize turning that adapter is an 8" move :rolleyes:
 
No I am not going to move the coupler I just let some air out of the TRAILAIR and its working much better so far, it makes sense because I have less leverage on the trailair and that is why it was not compressing the airbag.

IN ESSENCE ITS A SHORTER LEVER FROM THE REAR OF THE KINGPIN SO THATS WHY I HAD THE PROBLEM GUYS.

PHYSICS AND LEVERAGE 101.
 
Well at least there is one good thing to report my AIRBAG ON THE TRAILAIR does not leak one bit at all after 5 days and thats a good thing.
I have 55 pounds of air in the pinbox now and its working much better and is more active I have an air-gauge that is really accurate so this just had to be figured out.
Now that I know we are dealing with much less leverage on the airbag I can use air pressure as a fine tuning tool.
 
As you can see in the above pictures the Andersen ball is going to engage on the backside of the KINGPIN and that is why I am closer to the rear window of the truck and that is why the TrailAir needs way less psi then Lippert suggests.
 
I was watching the Video on youtube again and the guy has an eight foot bed also but has the coupler on the front of the kingpin, no wonder I could not get my trailair to move like the one in the video he has his on the front and with double the leverage but at least mine is working much better now guys.....................I still get some chucking but now I will figure out what to do with that the lady at Lippert said I may be getting two air ride objects kind of bouncing against each other.
 
Chucking might be the bed/hitch flexing, any way to brace the Anderson in the bed better?

So lippert wants you to have the yellow line hidden when hitched up? From the photos I would guess that the bag is very under inflated, since it’s resting where it should be when hitched.
 
The line on the shock needs to be as shown WITH RV ATTACHED!!!

Hook RV then pressures til line aligns with the top of the shocks bottom edge.
 
Ok I will work on it but the line is merely a suggestion as I said before because of the position of my coupler it moves up and down in a smaller ARCH therefore less movement as a whole compared to somebody who may use a BW companion or other fifth wheel setup and way less then the guy in the video.


Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.

 
So here is the kicker in essence my pin weight is less weight on the airbag because of where the coupler is located hard to believe but TRUE from a leverage standpoint.
 
That hitch will work with all different pin weights. You need to adjust it to the lippert specs first. None of your pics have shown it properly adjusted.
 
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