Spin Free Hubs

[TJJEEPER]

I just purchased the EMS Off Road kit to add the spin free kit to my rig. The directions say to press the new wheel studs in with a press. I don't own a press. I've seen folks use the lug nuts to pull the studs up tight with lube and washers. Given the 1 ton rigs have the two piece lug nuts is this a good idea?

Looking for someone who had done this without issue on a one ton duallly.

TIA
Greg

 

[EZeis]

Your truck doesn't have an axle disconnect?

I've always hammered the studs in and out. Brass drift works well.


Earl

 

[TJJEEPER]

Your truck doesn't have an axle disconnect?

I've always hammered the studs in and out. Brass drift works well.


Earl

No axle disconnect...

 

[AH64ID]

I used a press on the spin free kit for my 05, and made the press work!

Is there a local machine shop that could do it for you?

I’ve seen studs pulled with lug nuts, but I’m confident that would not have worked on my Yukon kit. Virgin holes vs well worn ones....

I would not use the DRW 2 piece lug nuts thou, if you decide to try it buy a couple 1 piece ones.

Your truck doesn't have an axle disconnect?

Earl

CAD didn’t come back until ‘13 on the 3500’s.

I do think Ram should have gone hubs over CAD.

 

[gsbrockman]

I do think Ram should have gone hubs over CAD.

For those of us that accumulate LOTS of miles in a short period of time, I’m glad RAM does not have locking hubs.

Advances in the quality and longevity of unit bearings, especially if one occasionally shoots a little grease through the ABS sensor hole, is really good today compared to some bearings manufactured 6 or 8 years ago.

The increased maintenance of manual locking hubs as well as the frequency of the maintenance is somewhat of a turnoff for me.

 

[TJJEEPER]

Not to start a hub Vs Unit bearing thread...
I want the hubs for 2 wheel low. I boondock with my monster toy hauler. There are times when the extra low speed is handy.

 

[dieselshadow]

Not to start a hub Vs Unit bearing thread...
I want the hubs for 2 wheel low. I boondock with my monster toy hauler. There are times when the extra low speed is handy.

Get the BD 2 Low kit. It’s about $150 and easy to install. Flip a switch, engage 4 low, and enjoy 2 low.

 

[AH64ID]

For those of us that accumulate LOTS of miles in a short period of time, I’m glad RAM does not have locking hubs.

Advances in the quality and longevity of unit bearings, especially if one occasionally shoots a little grease through the ABS sensor hole, is really good today compared to some bearings manufactured 6 or 8 years ago.

The increased maintenance of manual locking hubs as well as the frequency of the maintenance is somewhat of a turnoff for me.

You can have hubs with unit bearings. Ford does it,Toyota has done it, probably others, and to me it’s better than CAD.

Get the BD 2 Low kit. It’s about $150 and easy to install. Flip a switch, engage 4 low, and enjoy 2 low.

No CAD means no 2 Lo kit.

 

[EZeis]

No CAD means no 2 Lo kit.

Couldn't one just disconnect the shift motor on the axle and have 2-low? Especially if you have manual shift transfer?

Earl

 

[AH64ID]

Couldn't one just disconnect the shift motor on the axle and have 2-low? Especially if you have manual shift transfer?

Earl

That’s CAD, central axle disconnect, and without it there is nothing to disconnect.

From 02-12 the front axle was always engaged as there was nothing to disconnect.

It’s a stronger setup having a 1 piece axle shaft on the passenger side vs a 2 piece, but Ram must not be worried about it and I don’t hear of failures.

The outer u-joints still spin thou, which is why I think hubs with unit bearings would be better.

 

[RVTRKN]

These youtube video's I used when I converted my C&C. It may not be the same brand you purchased but lots of tips for ideas. I DID NOT INSTALL MY STUDS USING HIS METHOD, however you asked the question and he has a good method. I would use the two part nuts, but not the ones I use on my truck, to install the studs the way he did. I bought a cheap press from Harbor Freight that worked, but the u-joints sure did give it a work out. When you press out the u-joints make sure the ears are strait and true, before you press in the new u-joints. Good luck with your install. On edit, the stud install is 13 and a half minutes into the second video, and part one is a link only.

3500https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ro0X46vJez0

 

[EZeis]

That’s CAD, central axle disconnect, and without it there is nothing to disconnect.

From 02-12 the front axle was always engaged as there was nothing to disconnect.

It’s a stronger setup having a 1 piece axle shaft on the passenger side vs a 2 piece, but Ram must not be worried about it and I don’t hear of failures.

The outer u-joints still spin thou, which is why I think hubs with unit bearings would be better.

You missed my point. To get 2wd-low, you should be able to disconnect the axle shift motor so the axle stays disengaged and then put the transfer into 4-low and get 2-low. Should work without buying a kit, especially if your rarely need 2-low.

I misread your post thinking you meant no, cad means no 2-low kit as in you couldn't use the kit as suggested. But you meant no cad so can't use a kit. I know the op has no disconnect.

I actually don't like my disconnect. I'm use to instant 4wd. Now I must wait on the shift to happen. Also I like everything turning to keep the axle lubed up. I was shocked when I saw the disconnect on the axle. Explained why I didn't have instant 4wd. Damn them!

I hate lock hubs with a passion. Never liked stopping to get out and lock in hubs, especially on the side of a highway in a snow storm. Deadly stuff.


Earl

 

[RVTRKN]

Get the BD 2 Low kit. It’s about $150 and easy to install. Flip a switch, engage 4 low, and enjoy 2 low.

Doesn't the truck have to have the axle disconnect function, for the BD kit to work?

 

[dieselshadow]

Doesn't the truck have to have the axle disconnect function, for the BD kit to work?

I thought they had models to cover all trucks.... my mistake.

 

[RVTRKN]

I hate lock hubs with a passion. Never liked stopping to get out and lock in hubs, especially on the side of a highway in a snow storm. Deadly stuff.


Earl

With the free spin kit you get the best of both worlds, you can lock them and keep it in 2WD until you want 4WD without getting out. OR, you can unlock them for better milage and less wear, or when backing up a heavy trailer/5ver with a manual trans.

 

[jhenderson]

Without a CAD system locking hubs are the only option for 2 wheel low.

 

[AH64ID]

You missed my point. To get 2wd-low, you should be able to disconnect the axle shift motor so the axle stays disengaged and then put the transfer into 4-low and get 2-low. Should work without buying a kit, especially if your rarely need 2-low.

What axle shift motor?

There is nothing to disconnect the front axle outside of the transfercase, it's always engaged from 02-12. If the front tires are spinning so is the driveshaft, nothing to disconnect.

The transfer case is a single shift model, meaning you cannot be in Lo-Range without the front axle engaged inside the transfercase.

Shift motor or manual shift it's the same basic operation as the shift motor just takes place of the manual lever.

Hubs are the only way to get 2-Lo on a 02-12 without changing the transfercase to a twin-stick model and then those probably won't like the CTD Torque.

I actually don't like my disconnect. I'm use to instant 4wd. Now I must wait on the shift to happen. Also I like everything turning to keep the axle lubed up. I was shocked when I saw the disconnect on the axle. Explained why I didn't have instant 4wd. Damn them!

Need to update your sig... nothing in your sig has an axle disconnect.

My 18 shifts as fast into 4wd as any elec transfer case I've driven, with or without CAD. Not as fast as slamming a lever but 4wd shouldn't ever be that much of a surprise.

I do prefer a manual transfer case for rapid 2-4-2 that I like to do when on winding dirt roads. So I just do it less now.

 

[EZeis]

What axle shift motor?

There is nothing to disconnect the front axle outside of the transfercase, it's always engaged from 02-12. If the front tires are spinning so is the driveshaft, nothing to disconnect.

The transfer case is a single shift model, meaning you cannot be in Lo-Range without the front axle engaged inside the transfercase.

Shift motor or manual shift it's the same basic operation as the shift motor just takes place of the manual lever.

Hubs are the only way to get 2-Lo on a 02-12 without changing the transfercase to a twin-stick model and then those probably won't like the CTD Torque.



Need to update your sig... nothing in your sig has an axle disconnect.

Lol you missed my point again, but that's ok, but I'm moving on. My truck has a disconnect, I've seen it and even touched it. Freaky, huh?? I know what axle disconnects are. Been around them many of years.
I don't care to update my signature. Couldn't even tell you want it says. Probably has my 93 on it still from back in the day. This isn't a forum I frequent much. So you will just have to take my word that my truck has a disconnect. It's kinda a turn off when you assume everyone knows less than you and you explain things like axle disconnects to someone that knows what they are. And yes, I know the op doesn't have a disconnect. I was the one who asked him.The shift motor I was referring to is the one on the disconnect axles. They all have them. Either a motor or some kind of crappy vacuum actuator or cable or some kind of way to engage the axle.

Again, I read your post wrong thinking you meant that the 2-low kit couldn't be used on a disconnect axle. Guess you didn't read that part. Again, my reply was based off misreading your post. Again, I know the op doesn't have a disconnect axle, first thing I asked him. I know he can't disconnect an axle that isn't a disconnect. My posts were disconnect axle specific.

Earl

 

[EZeis]

My 18 shifts as fast into 4wd as any elec transfer case I've driven, with or without CAD. Not as fast as slamming a lever but 4wd shouldn't ever be that much of a surprise.

I do prefer a manual transfer case for rapid 2-4-2 that I like to do when on winding dirt roads. So I just do it less now.

Not my 18 with manual transfer. I watch a time bar on my cluster showing shifting in progress. So I sit there and watch it. If I don't, it grinds a bit as the shift happens while rear is spinning and the front isn't engaged yet. Don't care for it, but I don't use 4wd much. I'm use to instant engagement like my 07 and previous trucks. Throw the lever and it's done. Now I must wait the 5 or so seconds. I can't seem to get myself to remember it needs time to shift, so use to instant.


Earl

 

[EDankievitch]

To answer the very first question yes you can uses stack of washers and a lug but with some lube to install the wheel studs. Would I ? Well I have in a pinch. You risk over stretching and weakening the stud doing it this way. The best option is to use a press. 2nd choice if you can get a clear shot is with a drift and a large hammer.
As for free wheeling hubs you can’t beat them. Yes on that cold snowy night it’s a pain to get out and lock them. But they save ware and tear on all the spinning parts of the front end including the chain in the transfer case. If it’s not spinning it’s not wearing out. 2 wheel low range is an added plus. As for servicing them I’m on my 3rd truck with them. Keep out of the deep water and use quality grease and the bearings live a very long and very happy life. Way longer than any unit hub will last even with that BBC extra shot of grease.
That said if I was going to do another truck with free wheeling hubs I would track down the RAM Man. He use to make hub kits that used the Ford unit bearing assembly. Advantage is I don’t think you have to bore out the hubs on the stock Ram aluminum wheels. Just leave the cap off for access. I haven’t confirmed that the hubs will clear the wheels but they look really close.