Fried my Turbo

[CVR222NV]

Did some research and found this thread:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...and-lightly-modified-holset-turbo-wow.255899/

Got on the Turbo Re-Source website based on the above thread am considering the following:

2005 - 2007
5.9 Litre Stock Remanufactured / Blueprinted Turbocharger with Upgraded Turbine Wheel and Billet Compressor Wheel.
Does NOT Include New Control Valve.

Am I on the right track? Any other options I should be considering?

 

[2004HPCR]

Holsets are not difficult chargers to overhaul. Any decent shop should be able to built a good unit.

I dont have any experience with Turbo Re-Source but TurboLab America would be another one I would consider.

I rebuilt my own he351cw 2 years ago and installed a 76x64mm turbine and a billet wheel. I would HIGHLY recommend the turbine upgrade if you are so inclined. It completely changed my truck for the better. No loss of spool at all and the compressor gets driven much harder, without the drive pressure. The only thing is that you will need a decent sized muffler if you dont want the whistle associated with the 10 blade turbine.

Just a thought.

 

[CVR222NV]

Holsets are not difficult chargers to overhaul. Any decent shop should be able to built a good unit.

I dont have any experience with Turbo Re-Source but TurboLab America would be another one I would consider.

I rebuilt my own he351cw 2 years ago and installed a 76x64mm turbine and a billet wheel. I would HIGHLY recommend the turbine upgrade if you are so inclined. It completely changed my truck for the better. No loss of spool at all and the compressor gets driven much harder, without the drive pressure. The only thing is that you will need a decent sized muffler if you dont want the whistle associated with the 10 blade turbine.

Just a thought.

I'm currently running a Donaldson M090544 muffler so I'm assuming I should be good on the noise. It's the drone I can't handle.

 

[bigceltic]

Did some research and found this thread:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...and-lightly-modified-holset-turbo-wow.255899/

Got on the Turbo Re-Source website based on the above thread am considering the following:

2005 - 2007
5.9 Litre Stock Remanufactured / Blueprinted Turbocharger with Upgraded Turbine Wheel and Billet Compressor Wheel.
Does NOT Include New Control Valve.

Am I on the right track? Any other options I should be considering?

I did that mod and am very happy. I have the same muffler and no drone at all.

 

[CVR222NV]

I have already upgraded my exhaust manifold to the following: AFE BladeRunner Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold

In reviewing my saved links I also had this part saved: Airaid Modular Intake Tube 300-928. This part was referenced in a thread where AH64ID recommended to remove the silencer ring and add the Airaid MIT.

If there is anything else I should be doing while have the truck apart let me know. Thanks!

 

[2004HPCR]

The he351cw should have come with the 76x64mm turbine from the factory. I almost went with the 76x67mm, but my truck is a 6 speed so I didnt want to risk affecting the spool too much. Not that I think it would be a dog in any case.

Interesting fact: this is not a crazy custom modification either.

The factory HX40's have exactly the same 60x86mm cast compressor wheel as the he351, but the rotating assembly all used the bigger turbines. They were designed to work together. I like that.

 

[2004HPCR]

Another upgrade that I did to my turbo was installing a gapless turbine seal. Since I have an exhaust brake I thought it would be better to do everything possible to keep the soot and exhaust out of my oil return.

Most industrial borg warners and holsets have 2 piston rings on the turbine shaft, I believe for longevity and the reason stated above. Prevents coking and deposits on the turbine shaft.

Just a thought.

 

[bigceltic]

If you have the stock airbox you might consider the CAI Mod ("Home Depot CAI" or I have the PSM kit) - you can really feel the air getting sucked in even at idle yet you retain the stock box and filter.

 

[2004HPCR]

Good point. And as far as I can tell the intake baffle is useless.

The silencer ring, not so much. It actually acts as a nozzle for bypass air to smoothly re enter the impeller.

 

[slowmover]

Leave silencer ring alone. Installed.

The intake baffle on a stock truck keeps air from stacking. Change it and nothing else and the turbo has to work to keep up.

Think of it as a funnel that works.

I’ve tried the open AIRAID tube and for my stock NV56 555 it’s not a benefit.

I have to use the throttle differently. Non-intuitively. It’s not bad under a steady load . . but up or down thru the gears, or in a real transition (cruise to WOT) it’s no help at all.

Hold off on both changes till actual hardware (and/or tuning) done.

Inducing turbulence in the intake tract isn’t worth it for a working truck.

The intake later than mine that has “fences” to guide the air I’d be even less inclined to ever change. I’d like to have one, but haven’t gotten around to it.

The overhaul upgrade sounds great. Thx for posting that.
.

 

[CVR222NV]

Well after actually seeing the carnage I now need to restate that the turbo "grenaded" as opposed to just being "fried"! The photos tell the tale! I spoke to a good friend who is a diesel mechanic for our local crane company and he was concerned that metal may have invaded the intercooler and that I should replace it. He also suggested checking the air horn and grid heaters to see if there was any evidence of metal there. He also suggested that when I change the oil that I strain it to see if there is any evidence of metal in the oil pan. He also agreed an oil analysis should be done which I will do because I'm at my oil change interval. He also suggested a second oil analysis about a 1000 miles after I run it after getting everything back together. I have to say that the truck has been run for many days after the event that caused the loss of boost so at this point I'm trying to assess the damage.

I did some research and found the following thread which describes my situation:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/turbo-exploded.258847/#post-2513337

This thread recommends that the OEM intercooler is more than adequate for most upgrade applications. This is the part number for the correct intercooler:

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-cool-pkg-charge-air~5170704aj.html

Has there been any change in recommendations of aftermarket intercoolers over the OEM unit? Is part number 5170704AJ the correct part number?

Any other thoughts or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I have had good results with BD turbochargers.

 

[2004HPCR]

Dang, thats not so good. Lots of metal sent down stream for sure.

Any idea what your boost was set to? And peak? Lots of towing with your truck?

 

[2004HPCR]

I work on helicopter turbine engines. Compressor technology varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, but they ALL use some kind of method of controlling the direction of the airflow into, through and out of the compressor module. Before the compressor we have inlet guide vanes, sometimes variable, after the 1st stage there are the stators that guide the air flow onto the secondary stage, then there is the diffuser housing with vanes out of the compressor as well. There is a lot of engineering behind all of this. Seat of the pants is irrelevant.

Turbocharger OEM's are going to be borrowing some of this aerospace technology for turbochargers, soon.

Have a look at these links:
https://www.borgwarner.com/docs/def...-for-lp-egr-systems_en.pdf?sfvrsn=6e0bcd3c_12

http://turbo-moteurs.cnam.fr/publications/pdf/EUROT5.PDF

The vanes have the most effect when electronically controlled. Any device in the intake system that is PASSIVE, will have benefits only in a narrow range. What is really needed is dynamic airflow, hence "inlet swirl device".

 

[slowmover]

I work on helicopter turbine engines. Compressor technology varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, but they ALL use some kind of method of controlling the direction of the airflow into, through and out of the compressor module. Before the compressor we have inlet guide vanes, sometimes variable, after the 1st stage there are the stators that guide the air flow onto the secondary stage, then there is the diffuser housing with vanes out of the compressor as well. There is a lot of engineering behind all of this. Seat of the pants is irrelevant.

Turbocharger OEM's are going to be borrowing some of this aerospace technology for turbochargers, soon.

Have a look at these links:
https://www.borgwarner.com/docs/def...-for-lp-egr-systems_en.pdf?sfvrsn=6e0bcd3c_12

http://turbo-moteurs.cnam.fr/publications/pdf/EUROT5.PDF

The vanes have the most effect when electronically controlled. Any device in the intake system that is PASSIVE, will have benefits only in a narrow range. What is really needed is dynamic airflow, hence "inlet swirl device".

Years ago was both the TAG and the EAG by a large aftermarket house.

Turbo Air Guide
Exhaust Air Guide

One ahead of turbo, the other ahead of a performance muffler.

I missed my chance to both. See old threads.

Steady-State highway cruise at a set rpm was where they worked.

.

 

[CVR222NV]

Dang, thats not so good. Lots of metal sent down stream for sure.

Any idea what your boost was set to? And peak? Lots of towing with your truck?

Motor is stock except for an AFE exhaust manifold. Boost usually maxes out about 30 psi as set from the factory.

Minimal towing but I haul a RZR on my flatbed but that is only about 1500 lbs. Truck has additional weight due to flatbed, bumper and winch. However, I don't think the damage to the turbo was caused by this additional weight. The damage was caused by extreme use of the truck just after the big snow storm that hit Thanksgiving during our annual Elk hunt. I lost two of four bolts between the turbo flange and the exhaust manifold flange.

I intend to detail the adventure in the Offroad thread. I hope to get to it this weekend.

 

[2004HPCR]

Huh, so there was more to the story. Sounds like it got real hot.

 

[CVR222NV]

Huh, so there was more to the story. Sounds like it got real hot.

Yes it got hot, both the EGT's (1400 - 1600 degrees) and coolant (240 degrees) before I got it shut down but I don't think that caused the damage. Tom at Turbo Re-Source inspected my turbo and indicated that based on the events I described nothing would have caused that kind of damage. Tom indicated the only thing that could have caused that kind of damage was a foreign object entering the turbo from the inlet side (air cleaner to turbo). We inspected the air cleaner, air cleaner box, hoses and resonator and everything appears accounted for. That only leaves a tool, bolt, or nut from the exhaust manifold install.

Holsets are not difficult chargers to overhaul. Any decent shop should be able to built a good unit.

I dont have any experience with Turbo Re-Source but TurboLab America would be another one I would consider.

I rebuilt my own he351cw 2 years ago and installed a 76x64mm turbine and a billet wheel. I would HIGHLY recommend the turbine upgrade if you are so inclined. It completely changed my truck for the better. No loss of spool at all and the compressor gets driven much harder, without the drive pressure. The only thing is that you will need a decent sized muffler if you dont want the whistle associated with the 10 blade turbine.

Just a thought.

Turbo Re-Source has a choice of a Stage 1 and Stage 2 turbo upgrade as follows:

• 60mm x 70 mm turbine wheel (same as 6.7 L CTD) - up to 100 to 150 hp upgrade
• 67mm x 76mm turbine wheel - over 150 hp upgrade
• 60mm x 86mm x 90mm billet compressor wheel (same for both Stage 1 and 2)

Since I don't intend to go over 100 - 150 hp upgrade I went with Stage 1 based on Tom and AH64ID's recommendation. Turbo should arrive the middle of next week.

Pulled the intercooler and did find evidence of metal on the inlet side. Nothing on the outlet side. Also pulled the air horn and grid heater and no evidence of metal. We will change and strain the oil looking for metal as well as do an oil analysis. I'm optomistic I may have dodged a bullet!

 

[AH64ID]

Those EGTs aren’t crazy with stock timing.

As we discussed the stage 1 should work really well for how you use the truck.

It sounds like you got lucky with the metal in the intercooler. Are you going to flush it or replace it?



As far as metal in the motor, when my oil pump split and was grinding the timing cover off the pan, oil and oil filter were full of metal but the motor showed no evidence of any metal. The filter did its job, so if anything made it to the pan I’m sure your filter also did it’s job.

 

[CVR222NV]

Those EGTs aren’t crazy with stock timing.

As we discussed the stage 1 should work really well for how you use the truck.

It sounds like you got lucky with the metal in the intercooler. Are you going to flush it or replace it?



As far as metal in the motor, when my oil pump split and was grinding the timing cover off the pan, oil and oil filter were full of metal but the motor showed no evidence of any metal. The filter did its job, so if anything made it to the pan I’m sure your filter also did it’s job.

Good to hear on the EGT's. The most EGT's I have seen have been 1200-1300 degrees.

I am going to replace the intercooler with a new OEM unit for my truck but will keep the old unit and flush it for any repair on a ranch truck. At $467 for the new unit that seems like a no brainer!

I will report back on the oil analysis but am optimistic everything will turn out okay.