100K miles - what service?

[alexanderJ]

I have a 2005 CTD 2500 2WD that is getting ready to turn over 100K miles. I've had the truck since new and have done regular maintenance. Also ball joints, power steering pump, water pump, front brakes and brake assembly hoses, and electric fan clutch have been replaced.

This truck is used primarily to pull my 5th wheel trailer, and is running great. However, since I'm getting ready to take an extended trip this summer I'm thinking it might be time to replace a few items, i.e. belts, hoses, etc.

Any recommendations on necessary maintenance or parts?

Thanks.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Trans service?

 

[alexanderJ]

I do my transmission service yearly. Fluid, filter and band adjustment.

 

[xcc_rider]

I do my transmission service yearly. Fluid, filter and band adjustment.

Band adjustment?

Have you drained, flushed and refill the coolant?

 

[Prairie Dog]

Differential?
Also good to occasionally change the brake fluid and if they haven't been changed, at least give the U-joints a thorough check.

 

[Ozymandias]

Leave the hoses and belts alone, you don't get that quality anymore. They last.

 

[GrantP]

You might check the idler pulley, I've had that one bite me before and left me on the side of the highway.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I see the clowns over at Rv.net twisted this into a "buy a new truck" argument.
What a bunch of morons.

 

[alexanderJ]

I see the clowns over at Rv.net twisted this into a "buy a new truck" argument.
What a bunch of morons.

Will I ever learn ?? I've had this happen to me on that forum more times than I can count. You ask a simple question and 5 post later is has absolutely nothing to do with the OP. My bad. Some guy suggested I check the "catch bottle". I have no idea what it is or what the concern about it is. Please educate me.

Regarding differential, I change fluid about every 30K. I changed the Idler pulley and belt at about 50K.

Interesting comment on leaving all the OEM belts and hoses in place. I know they are superior to new components but it's hard to believe they will last forever. I'd like to hear more on this please.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Second gens had catch bottles for the draft tube, third gens don't have em.
Personally, I think you're probably perfectly safe with your existing hoses. They just dont fail that early.
The number 4 injector line is good to at least have on heand. This problem goes back to the 2003's and the line was revised a couple of times. If you dont want to change it, just carry a new one.
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/fil-5289447/Fuel-Injector-Components-Gaskets

 

[Ozymandias]

Pull out your Owners manual and you can see what has to be done at 100K.

 

[AH64ID]

In terms of the motor I think it’s just valve lash adjustment, but that might be 150K. I know I did my 05 at less than 100K and they needed adjusting.

Otherwise a good look at the belts and hoses is in order. They don’t have many miles, but they are 15 years old.

When I sold my 05 last year it was on the OE heater hoses but the upper/lower radiator hoses had been replaced as had the belt.

 

[alexanderJ]

Second gens had catch bottles for the draft tube, third gens don't have em.
Personally, I think you're probably perfectly safe with your existing hoses. They just dont fail that early.
The number 4 injector line is good to at least have on heand. This problem goes back to the 2003's and the line was revised a couple of times. If you dont want to change it, just carry a new one.
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/fil-5289447/Fuel-Injector-Components-Gaskets

Thank you. After some reading, looks like the #4 injector line is an accident waiting to happen. I'll pick one up. Has there been any articles in the TDR magazine describing the installation details of the line?

 

[jgillott]

Thank you. After some reading, looks like the #4 injector line is an accident waiting to happen. I'll pick one up. Has there been any articles in the TDR magazine describing the installation details of the line?

Here is a step by step video to follow on the replacement. I also recommend getting yourself a stubby 19mm wrench. I think it is easier than using a full size one to get in to that area.

 

[alexanderJ]

Thanks for the link to the video. I found some old posts from 7 or 8 years ago indicating that replacing these lines was not an end all solution. They tend to brake again. Apparently Cummins has gone thorough several versions of the lines, and the current ones have a new mounting bracket that has solved the problem. Does this mean the new ones should last longer than previous versions??

 

[alexanderJ]

And also, the video specifies torque at 37 ft lbs on the feed tube and 22 ft lbs on the connectors on the line. Anyone disagree?

 

[cerberusiam]

The cross over tube TQ can be dependent on what you are doing. On the 5.9 tubes 37 is in the book but 42 is more common as it is spec on the new style tubes which are beefier. More important the the actual TQ is making sure the nut moves freely or TQ will not be right, a drop of light oil on the threads at install after making sure the nut can be hand tightened will yield better results that JUST torque.

 

[alexanderJ]

The cross over tube TQ can be dependent on what you are doing. On the 5.9 tubes 37 is in the book but 42 is more common as it is spec on the new style tubes which are beefier. More important the the actual TQ is making sure the nut moves freely or TQ will not be right, a drop of light oil on the threads at install after making sure the nut can be hand tightened will yield better results that JUST torque.

I'm not too swift on diesel mechanics so I don't understand. Are you calling the line that is being replaced the "cross over tube"? The video shows the torque on those nuts at 22 ft lbs. It shows 37 ft lbs on the feed tube that is the male fitting the line connects to. Please clear this up for me.

 

[Prairie Dog]

John seems to be delayed (probably helping soemone else) so I'll take the liberty to jump in and say the injector line you are replacing connects to the cross-over tube, which is located inside the head and connects your new line to the body of the injector. The cross-over tube crosses between those two points and you can only see the end of it at the head.

 

[cerberusiam]

Yes, cross over tube and feed tube would be synonymous. Never heard it called that but don't spend much time on youtube watching videos, to many WTH moments to rely on the content.