Time for some mods?

[KRSmitty]

My 2017 is now out of factory warranty. Only 28k miles, but past the 3 year point. Maybe time to get a 2020???

Thinking of adding a few mods, mainly to try and gain some MPG when towing. Happy with the power, so gains there would be secondary.

1. Cold Air Intake: I know there has been discussions for years as to if CAI's actually work. I was told years ago, that a CAI will only benefit you if are in the 500 HP and higher range. For a stock motor, they will provide no benefit. Is that still the consensus?
2. Tuner: At one time Smarty tuners were suppose to be the best for Cummins. I know there are numerous tuners available now days. Is there a consensus of one for our 6.7's today?
3. Exhaust: Again, years ago I was told the stock exhaust size is satisfactory for a stock motor. Was looking to maybe replace the muffler with something better.

What are the thought on Edge products? Back in the days they were frowned upon because of how they did their tuning. What are the thoughts today?

Thanks.

 

[gsbrockman]

You should have 5/100k powertrain remaining.....

 

[AH64ID]

You should have 5/100k powertrain remaining.....

My thoughts as well.

What are your goals, go backwards from there.

No need to modify the intake or exhaust for a mild tune.

 

[Cummins12V98]

1. NO

2. NO

3. NO

You still have a 100k drivetrain warranty. Wait until that’s expired.

Your mileage increase towing will be negligible.

Stock air intake is excellent and will support a lot more hp.

 

[DHayden]

The only real proven way to gain MPG is through advanced timing which is not conducive with towing, especially heavy. Whichever way you choose, it will take a long time to recoup the cost of your "mileage adder" in fuel savings. I should say the only true MPG gain with an add on is advanced timing, the REAL mileage gainer is with your right foot. You may have heard it or maybe dont want to hear it but slowing down is the only true gainer towing. 60-65

 

[SnoKing]

Your truck already have a switchable cold air intake from the factory that get fresh air for the passengers fender area or from the grill/head light area, depending on needs etc. Just drive it and enjoy it.

 

[Randomrunner12]

My 2017 is now out of factory warranty. Only 28k miles, but past the 3 year point. Maybe time to get a 2020???

Thinking of adding a few mods, mainly to try and gain some MPG when towing. Happy with the power, so gains there would be secondary.

1. Cold Air Intake: I know there has been discussions for years as to if CAI's actually work. I was told years ago, that a CAI will only benefit you if are in the 500 HP and higher range. For a stock motor, they will provide no benefit. Is that still the consensus?- The new stock CAI are better than most aftermarket so leave it.
2. Tuner: At one time Smarty tuners were suppose to be the best for Cummins. I know there are numerous tuners available now days. Is there a consensus of one for our 6.7's today?- If you have to get a tuner, EFI LIVE or EZ LYNK are the best options for the Cummins platforms but head studs are highly suggested due to the increased injection timing and the VGT having a high backpressure.
   
3. Exhaust: Again, years ago I was told the stock exhaust size is satisfactory for a stock motor. Was looking to maybe replace the muffler with something better.- As far as exhaust, to get the best gains you'd need to remove all the choke hazards and run straight with a muffler or resonator for droning. I have a 17" resonator at the downpipe and then a 30" muffler just in front of the rear axle and the drone is almost gone and still sounds good outside. The neighbors don't hate my father-in -law anymore since we are living with them during this covid-19 issue.

What are the thought on Edge products? Back in the days they were frowned upon because of how they did their tuning. What are the thoughts today?

Thanks.

As for the Edge products, I had an edge insight for a number of years. Only thing that really bothered me was the cost of having to purchase extra stuff to add more gauges other than what it can see VIA the OBD2 plug, IE: EGT, Higher than 35psi boost, trans temp ( mines a g56). Stuff like that.

In the end if you are looking for a reliable tow rig, I would suggest when the time comes to consider how heavy you will pull and how often. Then consider if you want your Exhaust brake or not ( Cheetah VGT or Non-vgt). After this some things to look at are the following that would be great for towing and reliablity.

Starting with hard parts, I would consider head-studs, maybe valve springs and rods. Then I would look at the transmission and see what would be needed to keep it alive. After all that has been considered, start with Air then fuel.

I did an s465 2.6class pulling turbo on my truck to get better low end grunt but able to still pull power in the higher RPM range. I also did the Fass 165 fuel pump to get a steady 16-17psi in all ranges, CTT tuning did my tuning and kept it very conservative for me so no smoke at all, I get great mileage towing or empty and its reliable. I also did the ARP-4202 studs. I went this round because I called ARP and they told me that unless I am pushing 70lbs of boost and 4000 rpms, the 625 studs provide no more benefit than there 4202's besides clamping power and re usability. I have stock injectors, stock cp3 and can still do just fine in terms of running down pesky ricers or other trucks once in a while. Truck can hold a steady 85mph and get 22+mpg empty and hold 70mph towing whatever and get 16-17mpg depending head/tail or crosswinds.

 

[Jim W]

You have a newer version of the 6.7L engine which is somewhat fuel efficient than the 2007.5 to 2012, 6.7L engines of the past. There are several of us who in the past have modify the Cummins engine either a 5.9L or 6.7L size. But with all of the improvements and emission changes to the 6.7L engine from 2013.5 onward. I would recommend that you leave the engine stock and slow down to 60 MPH if you want improved fuel mileage. This is the most cost effective method.

Another point if you want to totally rebuild the engine for a slight fuel mileage improvement. Add up the total cost of the improvements, this will be in the hundreds of dollars or more. You will than need to do a return on your investment and see what the break even point is for the fuel savings you achieve, if you do achieve any at all!

 

[Cummins12V98]

Here are the TWO and ONLY mod's I have added to my truck. 73k on my 15 DRW, tows my 35k combined double tow great in any conditions, road or weather. I maintain it with RACOR, MOPAR FleetGuard and AMZ/OIL products.

 

[Cummins12V98]

"I would recommend that you leave the engine stock and slow down to 60 MPH if you want improved fuel mileage. This is the most cost effective method."

I 100% agree!!!!

I tow at 60 the vast majority of the time, I am at 1,750 RPM's in 6th with 4.10's. With 3.42's lock in 5th at 60 and you will be turning 1,750 also.

Now I will be honest if I am in a "FREEDOM STATE" I will set the cruise to 75 without hesitation. Fuel economy SUCKS but it's more important to get to our destination instead of counting TumbleWeeds!!!

 

[lpennock]

Now I will be honest if I am in a "FREEDOM STATE" I will set the cruise to 75 without hesitation. Fuel economy SUCKS but it's more important to get to our destination instead of counting TumbleWeeds!!!

Maybe that is why I only get 9-10.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Maybe that is why I only get 9-10.

9-10 at 75 ???????

Must be a light load.

EDIT: Is this just your truck Camper?

 

[lpennock]

9-10 at 75 ???????

Must be a light load.

EDIT: Is this just your truck Camper?

Yep truck camper. running right at 14k GVW but don't have the extra drag of a trailer. Drop about 0.5 mpg when towing my jeep on a trailer under the same conditions. Actually be more specific about 0.5mpg drop at 65 over running just the camper at 65. Get closer to 11.5 if I stay around 65 with just the camper.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Yep truck camper. running right at 14k GVW but don't have the extra drag of a trailer. Drop about 0.5 mpg when towing my jeep on a trailer under the same conditions. Actually be more specific about 0.5mpg drop at 65 over running just the camper at 65. Get closer to 11.5 if I stay around 65 with just the camper.

That sounds about right!!! You still have a lot of frontal surface area! So I think that is good mileage.

Funny my truck weighs 16,130# with just the RV setting on it.

 

[KRSmitty]

My thoughts as well.

What are your goals, go backwards from there.

No need to modify the intake or exhaust for a mild tune.

As mentioned in my original post, just looking for some additional MPG.

 

[KRSmitty]

The only real proven way to gain MPG is through advanced timing which is not conducive with towing, especially heavy. Whichever way you choose, it will take a long time to recoup the cost of your "mileage adder" in fuel savings. I should say the only true MPG gain with an add on is advanced timing, the REAL mileage gainer is with your right foot. You may have heard it or maybe dont want to hear it but slowing down is the only true gainer towing. 60-65

I agree...what I liked with the Smarty tuner I used on my 2007.

When towing, I lock the cruise at 62 MPH.