how many 2nd gen owners have automatic transmission with no issues?

[BigPapa]

Sorry y'all didn't catch my sarcasm......

 

[Timd32]

Sorry y'all didn't catch my sarcasm......

I run the extra 3 gallon pan..... this way I'm all set for a while. Just have to watch for those low curbs.

 

[SRay]

Timd32:

Now that is a proper transmission pan

 

[Bob Wagner]

20 years on my DTT trans

 

[Ryan Frank]

I bought a stock 97 with 48k and by 68k the 47re needed a reman. Stock stage (idk specs) from a reputable shop for $3200. A few times it flickered violently back and forth between gears and hope noise isolator helps. My manual swap fantasy was squashed, maybe next time, or the next.

 

[Joe Mc]

Can't really say "no issues" here, but... bought it (see sig) in 05/2001 w/75k on it bone stock. Around 04/2005 @ 129k-ish while servicing the bands (per FSM) and changing fluid/filter I noticed excessive black schmutz in the pan... and a little bit of a slip on the 1-2 shift, explains the excessive black schmutz. Had TRE Diesel Perf (Tim Barber) out of Va. Beach, VA, DTT it up. Present mileage 246k. I've replaced the solenoid and transducer a few times over the years, but regular service, fluid changes and watching that trans temp gauge go along way. I do as much of the services as I can myself, I especially don't trust those trans shops with my expensive DTT. So I happilly have around 120k miles (and counting) on my DTT. Note in my sig the RWHP & RWTQ and the date... I don't beat it or run hard and put away wet, but I do have a little fun with it and occasionally haul a little load, most recently (a few years back) hauled my daughters Merc. Sable, U-Haul 2 axel car carrier + another 1,000# in the bed from Levittown, PA to Marysville, WA (yes up and over the Snoqualmie Pass) about a 6k mile round trip. What a blast and the truck loved the light workout.

 

[Tyler James Haskett]

My

just wondering how many have auto trans with no issues....and what you did to make them that way.

2001 has close to 260,000 miles on it. It’s chipped but nothing huge, Van
Aaken smartbox r. Only thing I’ve done is religious maintenance done with good quality filters and fluid, transgo shift kit before chip, only tow with chip in middle setting and keep head dislodged from you know where when driving. I think the biggest issue is guys crank up the horsepower and then haul butt and expect things to last while they do it. Just takes a little common sense and some pride in what you give up your hard earned money for and she'll treat ya right.

 

[Tractorat]

02 with just over 150k. No problems at all.

 

[ed9824v]

also have the DTT trans with the same issues but never gets over temperature and has been great so far for towing

 

[gcorron]

Bone stock on my 97 180k on it.
George

 

[O'Dell]

98 12 valve with 252,000 and still have the original transmission. Have had it act up after it set but regular service has cleared that up.

 

[JMcCoy]

mine is stock thats the way i want to leave it....current trans shifts nice and stays in od like it should..but dealing with lockup issues..that i have in another post...needing help....

As previously stated, the issue was the original transmission (Torqueflight 727) was mismatched to the Cummins. It wasn't so much that it couldn't handle the torque, but it was where it made the tork. In 1966 the 440 produced 350 hp at 4,400 rpm and 480 lbs. of torque at 2,800 rpm. That's considerably more than '98's 180 hp and 420 lbs. of tq @ 1,600 rpm. The key to the problem is the 2,800 vs 1,600 rpm. At the low rpm the cummins starts making power (1,200 rpm or lower) the transmission isn't tuning enough rpm to build line pressure to hold the clutches. So under heavy acceleration, even at stock power levels, the clutches slip, creating heat. The torque converter was also poorly matched for the low rpm torque and the stamped steel case would "balloon." Once it was figured out that bumping the low rpm line pressure and a properly matched torque converter would fix the issues, we were off to the races, literally. That's where the aftermarket comes in.

I have had my ATS transmission in since 2007 and it's still going strong. It has a billet input shaft, flex plate, and 5 disk tork converter. It has served me well, but probably overkill for most people.

At a minimum, I would upgrade the torque converter, boost the line pressure, and ditch the throttle position sensor.

As far as torque converter lockup, I have an ATS lockup commander which let's me select what mph it locks up. It also controls the exhaust break. A simple jumper puts it back to stock. It had worked great for me for years. For the price though, it's hard to beat the mystery switch.

I ditched my throttle position sensor (left in place though) and did the potentiometer mode for 4th gear shifts. This is one of the best mods I have done to date and it only cost a few bucks. No more hunting and I can bump 4th gear shifts up a bit while towing. The ONLY downside is that it doesn't downshift under acceleration, like if you wanted to pass someone on the highway. You just need to tap the OD button on the shifter. This is a non-issue since it never downshifted right to begin with and I found myself hitting the OD off button anyways.

I am not pushing ATS (I have a Suncoast GM solenoid) it's just what I have. There are several reputable companies out there. With all this said, when mine goes out again I may consider slapping a manual in, but that's just for fun. Hope my ramblings helped.

 

[ofelas]

Bingo, JMcoy summarized it nicely.

Anytime I do a pan drop & fluid/filter change on my friends' RH/RE transmissions, if the clutches/bands look good, I turn up the line pressure within reason & install those little billet struts, accumulators, servos & anchors to hold the increased line pressure.

On my truck, I installed a custom pump that provides more volume as well.

I tailor my shift points & lock/unlock with a Compushift Mini, and since it plugs into the factory TPS, I haven't lost downshifts under acceleration. When rpms drop after an upshift or lockup, I like them to stay above 1500rpm to keep volume & line pressure up, and just below the point where I can instantly peg the boost needle at the lower end of my torque curve, if desired.

 

[Cummins12V98]

01 Sport I bought from original owner. I did a full fluid exchange and band adjustments at 135k, the pan was spotless with 25k or so on the fluid. He towed a boat and truck camper over the Cascades in WA often. Trans seems good to me with nice firm shifts. I tow a 7k boat with it.

 

[Brian Neal]

'01 QuadCab ShortBed that Dad bought new and put 150k on it before effectively parking it in the barn in '08...
@160k in 2015, he complained that it wouldn't shift into OD when it got below 50°...I told him to feather the throttle and that worked...I started driving it last year, and I'm still feathering the throttle to get into OD, but it shifts OK otherwise...
I serviced the transmission last year (1st time it had been touched in over 10 years), and the bottom was coated with black but it wiped off easily...a 1/2" piece of the big retaining ring was stuck to the magnet, I tossed that into the glovebox and kept rolling...

 

[Dl5treez]

My ‘95 has 400,000 miles on her. Running on the second transmission. It was installed around 177,000 and has very minor improvements to it. Nothing billet.

The secret? Engine is stock. 160hp/420 torques. It runs and pulls just fine and never is so far behind anybody we are with to be a burden.

 

[SnoKing]

As previously stated, the issue was the original transmission (Torqueflight 727) was mismatched to the Cummins. It wasn't so much that it couldn't handle the torque, but it was where it made the tork. In 1966 the 440 produced 350 hp at 4,400 rpm and 480 lbs. of torque at 2,800 rpm. That's considerably more than '98's 180 hp and 420 lbs. of tq @ 1,600 rpm. The key to the problem is the 2,800 vs 1,600 rpm. At the low rpm the cummins starts making power (1,200 rpm or lower) the transmission isn't tuning enough rpm to build line pressure to hold the clutches. So under heavy acceleration, even at stock power levels, the clutches slip, creating heat. The torque converter was also poorly matched for the low rpm torque and the stamped steel case would "balloon." Once it was figured out that bumping the low rpm line pressure and a properly matched torque converter would fix the issues, we were off to the races, literally. That's where the aftermarket comes in.

I have had my ATS transmission in since 2007 and it's still going strong. It has a billet input shaft, flex plate, and 5 disk tork converter. It has served me well, but probably overkill for most people.

At a minimum, I would upgrade the torque converter, boost the line pressure, and ditch the throttle position sensor.

As far as torque converter lockup, I have an ATS lockup commander which let's me select what mph it locks up. It also controls the exhaust break. A simple jumper puts it back to stock. It had worked great for me for years. For the price though, it's hard to beat the mystery switch.

I ditched my throttle position sensor (left in place though) and did the potentiometer mode for 4th gear shifts. This is one of the best mods I have done to date and it only cost a few bucks. No more hunting and I can bump 4th gear shifts up a bit while towing. The ONLY downside is that it doesn't downshift under acceleration, like if you wanted to pass someone on the highway. You just need to tap the OD button on the shifter. This is a non-issue since it never downshifted right to begin with and I found myself hitting the OD off button anyways.

I am not pushing ATS (I have a Suncoast GM solenoid) it's just what I have. There are several reputable companies out there. With all this said, when mine goes out again I may consider slapping a manual in, but that's just for fun. Hope my ramblings helped.

Bill always told me when towing do not roll into the power below 1800 RPMs when I had the 2001.5.

 

[JMcCoy]

That's solid advice for a stock transmission, or any transmission for that matter.

 

[SnoKing]

That's solid advice for a stock transmission, or any transmission for that matter.

That was with his custom towing transmission.

 

[dynodave]

96 2500 2WD CTD auto 19-21mpg around town
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/media/962500.6457/
I'm at 237K+ original on my drive train. When it's real cold, I let the fluid warm up and fill the valve body and clutches or it will not engage. Admitted I'm NOT much of a trans specialist at all. I have had a rebuild kit for a few years but never got around to it.

I got an attack of PMR (Poly Milagia Rheumatica) and was then out of commission for over 18 months. I did not trust the 96 to pull my 26' enclosed car hauler so I broke down and bought a FCA Ram 2017 3500 CTD 2WD reg cab and long bed 21-22 mpg around town. I refuse to sell the 96 as I don't trust all this computer crap and want revive the 96 and keep it as a spare. If I get any big $$ repairs the 2017 will go! (at under 10k the abs controller/module crapped out)
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/media/atlantic-green.6436/