Frame rot

[MichaelOverfield]

MichaelOverfield,

Avitar, you're setup at a high power match?

Gary

Yes, I do High Power Rifle, and Bullseye Pistol, and compete with the US Navy.

 

[GCroyle]

Back in my Memphis days 99-01 I shot at MSSA and have NRA classifications in High Power Rifle Sharpshooter and High Power Rifle Long Range Expert. It’s a thrill to lob one into the X ring with an M1 at 600 yds with iron sights.

A good friend from there was Navy and he was willing to share the craft. J. R. R.

Skills are rusty but appreciation for the craft and completion is still there.

 

[Wayne M.]

I do have a vivid memory about the 3 gen intro back then. I was impressed with the forming of the frame, how it’s not a simple channel but a hydroformed piece. I also recall reading about the special 5th wheel mounting issues on this forum and in the magazine.
Maybe knowing about the hydro form process can indicate something about the metallurgy.

 

[MichaelOverfield]

I do have a vivid memory about the 3 gen intro back then. I was impressed with the forming of the frame, how it’s not a simple channel but a hydroformed piece. I also recall reading about the special 5th wheel mounting issues on this forum and in the magazine.
Maybe knowing about the hydro form process can indicate something about the metallurgy.

Hydroforming is just the application of hydraulic pressure to cold form the material. It lends itself better to more maluable materials with a lower yeild, like 36KSI steel. The higher yeilds have more springback and can be more difficult to cold form.

https://carlifenation.com/the-main-advantage-of-a-hydroformed-vehicle-frame/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydroforming

When I worked in aerospace, we manufactured many hydroformed parts for aircraft. The forming has to account for spring back. Also, when you cold work a metal, you generally harden it as well, this can be normalized later with a heat treat anneal if uniform properties are needed for the finished part.

I found this article on the new 2019 Ram 1500 Frame.. and one more reason to keep an older truck, these new ones are going to be much more difficult to maintain. With the various materials used on the new frames to save some weight, the repair options get much more limited.

https://www.repairerdrivennews.com/...5-lbs-with-high-strength-steel-some-aluminum/

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

One installed, one to be welded. More pics to follow later.

 

[SnoKing]

Is there a welder in the house?

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Is there a welder in the house?

Ouch!

There’s a few ugly ones but I think (hope) all of them are good. I admittedly had issues fighting gravity, not to mention all the contorted positions I had to put myself in.

I still need to deal with the driver side next to the fuel tank. I know another can of worms will be opened when I attempt to drop it.

There’s more pics but I need to get to my laptop to post them (just too hard on phone or tablet for this old man )

 

[Wiredawg]

Mark,

I think it looks good and will work. Good luck dropping the tank... I dropped the one on our former 03 Ram in order to install a Draw Straw (bigger fuel suction pipe). Not a terrible job... just finagling the connection off the fuel lines on the top of the tank.

Cheers, Ron

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Good luck dropping the tank...

The problem is that the bolts holding the straps are severely rusted. Not sure it’s coming apart without issues.

 

[Wiredawg]

The problem is that the bolts holding the straps are severely rusted. Not sure it’s coming apart without issues.

Mark, if the straps are in bad shape too, you might consider cutting bolts/straps. Been too long since I dropped mine so don't remember details to help.

Cheers, Ron

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Mark, if the stamps are in bad shape too, you might consider cutting bolts/straps. Been too long since I dropped mine so don't remember details to help.

Cheers, Ron

Straps seem ok, and are available if replacement is needed. The bolts, which are welded in the crossmembers, are NOT available. @mwilson is looking for alternatives for me if the need arises (and based on the condition of the bolt, it will).

 

[Wayne M.]

I wonder if they’re just set into a hole via knurled shoulder like a wheel stud. You might be able to knock it out and use a carriage bolt.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

I wonder if they’re just set into a hole via knurled shoulder like a wheel stud. You might be able to knock it out and use a carriage bolt.

Earlier, someone (Ozy?) said they are welded in. Also not sure if the would come out with the cab and body in place.

 

[JR]

Can you get a torch in there with a pencil tip (like a soldering tip) and heat the nut before you attempt to zip it off? Then chase the threads with a die? Or are they too far gone for that?

 

[Wayne M.]

Hmmm. Uncharted territory for me.
I can’t imagine there not being a hole in the x member for a fastener to pass through. Sounds like time for some running thread of good quality and some nuts. You’d have to be able to get a nut and washer topside and put your stud made from the running thread in. Double nut on the bottom side.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Can you get a torch in there with a pencil tip (like a soldering tip) and heat the nut before you attempt to zip it off? Then chase the threads with a die? Or are they too far gone for that?

Possibly, but it’s hard to tell how heavy the rust is. Plus the bolts/studs are too long for a deep socket so a wrench is the only way to get them started.

 

[Ozymandias]

Ouch!

There’s a few ugly ones but I think (hope) all of them are good. I admittedly had issues fighting gravity, not to mention all the contorted positions I had to put myself in.

I still need to deal with the driver side next to the fuel tank. I know another can of worms will be opened when I attempt to drop it.

There’s more pics but I need to get to my laptop to post them (just too hard on phone or tablet for this old man )

Try welding downhill instead of uphill, goes better and gives nicer results.

 

[Ozymandias]

Hmmm. Uncharted territory for me.
I can’t imagine there not being a hole in the x member for a fastener to pass through. Sounds like time for some running thread of good quality and some nuts. You’d have to be able to get a nut and washer topside and put your stud made from the running thread in. Double nut on the bottom side.

The bolt goes through the whole tube, the (round) head sticks out on top and is welded to the surface.

 

[dieselshadow]

I would continue to finish weld all the perimeter you can. It certainly can't hurt.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Try welding downhill instead of uphill, goes better and gives nicer results.

I tried both ways and uphill was actually a little easier I thought. The real problem was having to do it laying on my side. The awkward position made it hard to move my hands with the bead.

I would continue to finish weld all the perimeter you can. It certainly can't hurt.

Everyone has told me stitch welding was the best approach.