Uh oh. Looks like the VP44 gave it up

[Gearclash]

199,800 mi and the VP 44 quit. 1999 Ram 2500, manual trans. Shows codes P1688, P0251 and P0252. Also a P0284 code but I think that is unrelated to the VP44 quitting. Where is the best place to go to get a VP44 worked on? I was thinking Midwest Fuel Injection or Blue Chip.

I’m also thinking I should for sure replace replace or preferably upgrade the lift pump. Currently the truck is on its second stock lift pump, which has around 100k miles on it. Pressure has always been steady, showing around 12 psi at idle, and staying above 5 psi under full power if the fuel filter isn’t plugged. I always thought that 5 psi was considered adequate, if barely, now I’m seeing that 10 psi is considered the minimum. I’m not real excited about putting a FASS or Airdog system on as they seem to give trouble too. What would be the best way to bring up the fuel supply pressure and still keep a halfway stock system? I would for sure like to continue using the stock fuel filter. Any input on this appreciated! I hope to do the injector pump R and R myself.

 

[NIsaacs]

I’m not real excited about putting a FASS or Airdog system on as they seem to give trouble too. What would be the best way to bring up the fuel supply pressure and still keep a halfway stock system?

I agree, too much modification required. I used up several oem lift pumps then upgraded to the DDRP pump, it lasted less than a year. I replaced it with the Raptor 100, it went 4 years, I just installed a Raptor 150. I am still on my oem VP @ 346k miles. I think the 100 would serve a stock truck just fine. It was too small for my mods but I used it anyway. It still works fine just not keeping up at WOT.

So you want to repair your VP, rather than an exchange? If so, I don't know off hand a good rebuilder, I am sure there are several. I like Diesel Auto Power (DAP) for engine parts. The best thing you can do for your VP is run on the top half of your fuel tank.

 

[BigPapa]

When I worked at the truck shop we sold and installed MANY FASS DDRP’s. I don’t remember the exact numbers, but I’d estimate in the three years I was there we sold at least 100 of them and I can only remember having trouble with 3-4 of them. It’s a good pump and what I would recommend.

 

[cerberusiam]

You could go with the Fleece PowerFlo in-tank pump for better fuel pressure and longevity. Be better than the external pumps and their problems.

 

[BigPapa]

You could go with the Fleece PowerFlo in-tank pump for better fuel pressure and longevity. Be better than the external pumps and their problems.

I’d forgotten about this “new” option. The Fleece would be my first recommendation, then the DDRP.

 

[Gearclash]

I will check out the Fleece PowerFlo. It would be nice not to have to drop the tank tho.

 

[Gearclash]

Question about the stock and aftermarket in tank pumps. Sometimes I run into the early stages of fuel gelling. So I don’t want a fuel intake that can plug in the tank. What does the stock intake have for a screen, and what do the aftermarkets have?

 

[cerberusiam]

Since the pump is in the tank and pretty centered with liquid around it the chances of gelling in the tank are very low, much more likely to have a problem in the lines to the filter and\or IP. To remedy that I would add a heated filter base at the tank to help with that problem. You should be getting a fair amount of heated return fuel from the VP-44 cooling process dumped right back into the fuel basket so gelling is probably going to be a thing of the past.

 

[DavidC]

Just my opinion. I have 2 Carter pumps, the original and a spare I bought in Denver when in reality the problem wound up being the module screen having a vaseline type substance on the screen. I can change the pump in about 20-30 minutes. I still have the original at 95k on the engine. For me personally there is no way I am putting a pump in my tank.

 

[cerberusiam]

The in-tank pumps have proven to be far more effective and reliable than any other solution in all scenarios. A steady diet of extra lube and diesel conditioner to keep the asphaltene build up limited, apples to oranges comparison to external pumps.

 

[Gearclash]

It doesn’t sound like the stock in tank pumps performed very well though. That being said, aside from the inaccessibility, in the tank is a logical place for the pump to keep noise and pump heat under control.

Who has the best price on the Fleece pump? Looks like a good unit, the price is salty but if it works I’m fine with it. I’ve had this truck since 2003 and plan to keep it indefinitely.

 

[cerberusiam]

Did not perform well in what aspect? Since 2005 LP's have been a non-issue for anything EXCEPT high performance. At the point you overrun the flow of the pump then it won't be adequate. The stock in-tank LP is adequate for 99% of daily usage in the 400-450 HP range, with multi-pass filtration. The Fleece pump is HP and claims tested to be good to 800 HP.

The Fleece pump is new and it is expensive, no argument there. Not sure you will find a cheaper price anywhere. Performance is expensive, other a $50 chinese made LP would be all anyone would need. Just another option to consider in the myriad of choices.

 

[DownByTheRiver]

Most bang for the buck is a cheaper in frame pump (walbro etc) and a filter head that you choose the filters you want for. Keep a spare in the truck and if the pump ever goes out, you're back in business within minutes.

If i were to do it again, that's more or less how I'd do it. The fleece product is interesting though.

 

[Gearclash]

Did not perform well in what aspect? Since 2005 LP's have been a non-issue for anything EXCEPT high performance. At the point you overrun the flow of the pump then it won't be adequate. The stock in-tank LP is adequate for 99% of daily usage in the 400-450 HP range, with multi-pass filtration. The Fleece pump is HP and claims tested to be good to 800 HP.

The Fleece pump is new and it is expensive, no argument there. Not sure you will find a cheaper price anywhere. Performance is expensive, other a $50 chinese made LP would be all anyone would need. Just another option to consider in the myriad of choices.

From what I’ve read and been told the OEM style in tank pump for the 24V second gen doesn’t make any more pressure or last any longer than the OEM block mount pump. I am operating under the assumption that I need to get a pump that will keep the supply pressure above 10 psi. Neither of the stock block mount pumps I’ve had could do that. This engine does have a +60hp chip on it.

 

[DavidC]

From what I have read over the years anything below 5 is getting into bad territory. Your going to have a tough time at 10 with WOT unless you have at least 1/2" line running the complete system from the tank pickup all the way to the injection pump. You can only get so much fuel through the stock 3/8.

 

[rotohead]

With that mileage you might also consider replacing the tappet cover gasket when you have the VP off. It's impossible to do it with the pump in place. If you do don't buy cheap gaskets off ebay. You're better off going to Cummins and getting it there.

 

[BigPapa]

I used the Felpro Tappet Cover gasket. Clean everything good, glue the gasket to the cover with 3M Weather Strip Adhesive, let it cure overnight, and reassemble. No leaks in over 250K miles.

 

[rotohead]

I used a Felpro head gasket six years ago and it was excellent, no issues with it since then. Lot's of poorly made tappet cover gaskets on ebay though. Just spend a little extra to be sure. That's a unpleasant repair to do twice.

 

[Killer223]

when i converted my 02 and 04 i choose the in-tank stock lift pump as just about any parts house in the country will have on on the shelf and you don't have to wait for parts.

 

[petersonj]

From what I have read over the years anything below 5 is getting into bad territory. Your going to have a tough time at 10 with WOT unless you have at least 1/2" line running the complete system from the tank pickup all the way to the injection pump. You can only get so much fuel through the stock 3/8.

I have read the same thing. However, what I have experienced is completely different. My OEM VP44 and lift pump were replaced at 87,000 miles in 2005 under warranty (VP44 failed, code 0214 timing piston), but the original lift pump was working fine - I know because I drove the truck 250 miles with a fuel gauge strapped to the windshield wiper. The warranty required the dealer to install an in-tank lift pump - 6 psi at idle and 3 psi at WOT. According to what I have read, this would be a disaster, especially with my OEM fuel lines. I was not concerned because I believe that as long as there is a positive pressure at the inlet of the VP44, there will always be adequate fuel flow and fuel pressure that is provided by the vane pump inside the VP44.

So far I have not been disappointed. I ran the in-tank lift pump for 113,000 miles and in 2016, I installed a used FASS lift pump on the frame rail. I removed the in-tank lift pump which was still working fine. I switched to the frame rail lift pump for ease of replacement on the road if necessary. I am sure that the in-tank lift pump would have given a long life, I just didn't want to have to tow the truck in case of a failure. The FASS lift pump fuel pressure is 12 psi at idle and 6 psi at WOT. I also installed a Smarty S03 just before I installed the FASS lift pump.

Today the odometer reads 344,000 miles - that is 257,000 miles on the second VP44 with OEM filtration and OEM fuel lines. The VP44 has performed great for all of these years. I have never had a failure with any of the lift pumps and the in-tank lift pump ran the longest, so far.

- John