Transmission Drain Back

[Makensmoke]

I changed the transmission fluid a few months ago on my 2016 68RFE and since I have noticed quite the increase in time it takes the transmission to set in gear after being turned off for 5-10 days. (up to 30 seconds from putting it in gear until I can let my foot off the brake and it will creep away- I could get it to roll away right away, but I would have to rev it up more than normal.) If it is a few hours or next day it drops right in and rolls away.

In a hurry, I used a filter set from O'Reilly (and Valvoline synthetic), does anyone know if the filter is allowing this drain back or is something else leaking internally. The filter came with the filter, a spin on return filter and a new rubber seat that pressed into the aluminum body nicely, it didn't seem like it was too cheaply made.

 

[DavidC]

https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/torque-converter-draining-back.1441409/

 

[Ltngdrvr]

I changed the transmission fluid a few months ago on my 2016 68RFE and since I have noticed quite the increase in time it takes the transmission to set in gear after being turned off for 5-10 days. (up to 30 seconds from putting it in gear until I can let my foot off the brake and it will creep away- I could get it to roll away right away, but I would have to rev it up more than normal.) If it is a few hours or next day it drops right in and rolls away.

In a hurry, I used a filter set from O'Reilly (and Valvoline synthetic), does anyone know if the filter is allowing this drain back or is something else leaking internally. The filter came with the filter, a spin on return filter and a new rubber seat that pressed into the aluminum body nicely, it didn't seem like it was too cheaply made.

First, are you sure the fluid level is correct? It has to be checked HOT for a correct level reading on the dipstick.
Then, if you let the truck idle for a minute or two before putting it in gear, even if the fluid level is low, it should move right off.
I have had this issue from time to time after fluid changes, and I have had to add some fluid each time.
Just watch that you don't add too much.

 

[DavidC]

My truck is an antique and can sit for Months but the same probably applies. My trans is modified to circulate in park but I always start it and move to neutral until everything stabilizes, mainly letting the engine oil circulating before putting it into gear.

 

[Makensmoke]

First, are you sure the fluid level is correct? It has to be checked HOT for a correct level reading on the dipstick.
Then, if you let the truck idle for a minute or two before putting it in gear, even if the fluid level is low, it should move right off.
I have had this issue from time to time after fluid changes, and I have had to add some fluid each time.
Just watch that you don't add too much.

Yessir, I have driven it several hundred miles since, topping it off after 200 mile trips with trailer in tow. Like I have read several times I was surprised how much it took to bring it up towards the top of the hash marks! And what a fricking mess by the way I cannot figure out for the life of me why they don't weld a bung in the pan.

 

[RammerJam]

My truck is an antique and can sit for Months but the same probably applies. My trans is modified to circulate in park but I always start it and move to neutral until everything stabilizes, mainly letting the engine oil circulating before putting it into gear.

Trans fluid doesn't normally circulate in Park?? interesting to know that

 

[DonFitzwater]

Trans fluid doesn't normally circulate in Park?? interesting to know that

Older trans like 48re and previous do not circulate in park, this is why Chrysler instructs us to check in neutral. 68rfe and newer circulate in park.

 

[DavidC]

Trans fluid doesn't normally circulate in Park?? interesting to know that

It was part of DTT's build. Every time I would tell the builder (Fred Swanson) I put it in neutral he would remind me I do not have to do it.Old habits die hard but I still do it as I feel more comfortable that way.

 

[C M McCormick]

My old 02 did the same thing. If it set for a couple weeks in the garage it didn't want to move once put in gear. In the winter time it would do the same thing plus had to wait for the power steering and brakes to work. So far so good with my 18.

Peace out
Craig

 

[Cummins12V98]

My stock trans at 140k in 01 Sport needs to be idled at 1k for a bit before I drop into drive. If I don’t it moves slowly.

 

[kthaxton]

FYI for those with the older torqueflight based transmission's (727's up to 48RE) and don't know this already....a simple Transgo kit (either the basic shift-kit or the full Reprogramming kit) adds a new valve that provides anti-drainback and 'pump in park' features. They are quite easy to install.

 

[JR]

There used to be a different sump filter for 2 wheel drive and 4 wheel drive trucks, I don't think this still applies for OE filters but it used to be if a 2 wheel drive filter was installed on a 4 wheel drive the neck was shorter which would effectively place the filter part way out of the fluid level and cause what you describe. Being an aftermarket filter would make me suspect fitment either way, maybe double check your part number against the correct Mopar part number 05013470AE.

Either way it sounds like an installation issue whether it be installer or manufacture related, especially if it came up immediately after.

First, are you sure the fluid level is correct? It has to be checked HOT for a correct level reading on the dipstick.
.

On my 14 there are provisions on the dipstick to check either cold (~70*) or hot (~180*).

 

[DonFitzwater]

FYI for those with the older torqueflight based transmission's (727's up to 48RE) and don't know this already....a simple Transgo kit (either the basic shift-kit or the full Reprogramming kit) adds a new valve that provides anti-drainback and 'pump in park' features. They are quite easy to install.

I'm not 100% sure but I seem to remember there being an actual anti drain back valve mounted in the transmission cooler lines, a defective valve would cause drain back. Any idea how a change in the valve body could keep fluid from draining back?

 

[DavidC]

I'm not 100% sure but I seem to remember there being an actual anti drain back valve mounted in the transmission cooler lines, a defective valve would cause drain back. Any idea how a change in the valve body could keep fluid from draining back?

It is at the heat exchanger on the engine of 2nd gens. Some took it apart and drilled it out as it is an obstruction to fluid flow.

 

[Ltngdrvr]

I'm not 100% sure but I seem to remember there being an actual anti drain back valve mounted in the transmission cooler lines, a defective valve would cause drain back. Any idea how a change in the valve body could keep fluid from draining back?

Not a anti-drainback valve, but a thermostatic valve in the cooler line next to the trans, opens when the trans gets up to a certain temp, makes the fluid warm up faster.

 

[DonFitzwater]

Not a anti-drainback valve, but a thermostatic valve in the cooler line next to the trans, opens when the trans gets up to a certain temp, makes the fluid warm up faster.

I was speaking about earlier 727 based chrysler trans. I really like the thermovalve in the newer trucks, transmission temp always maintains constant within a few degrees.

 

[kthaxton]

I'm not 100% sure but I seem to remember there being an actual anti drain back valve mounted in the transmission cooler lines, a defective valve would cause drain back. Any idea how a change in the valve body could keep fluid from draining back?

I remember those! I don't know what year they installed them but my 86's did not have them and my 2000 (gas) did. I know they were prone to failure and it was common to drill them out and remove the spring and ball.

To make the change in the valve body, you need a kit like this one from Transgo (I think the kit for Diesel trannies required a different part number). The new manual valve does both functions I mentioned above (anti drainback and pumps in Park). This is the most basic kit that I know of, but the higher end reprogramming kits also have this manual valve.

https://transgo.com/product-details/tf-3-speed-shift-kit/

The "land" on the valve is in a different position which blocks the channel that allows drainback.

 

[Ltngdrvr]

I was speaking about earlier 727 based chrysler trans. I really like the thermovalve in the newer trucks, transmission temp always maintains constant within a few degrees.

But, that's not what the OP has.
All this blow about older transmissions doesn't do the OP any good.

 

[Makensmoke]

Hearing all the people having similar issues I guess I would not be surprised to just be another one of you who needs to wait, which is fine unless I have someone who drives a competitor in the truck with me- I can already hear the s*it I am going to get for the next 20 years if we have to wait, or I rev the engine "more than his" to roll away.

In the end I agree with JR as well that it seems awful coincidental that it started happening around the same time that I changed the fluid/filters. I will start preparing (mostly mentally) for the $100+ transmission oil bath to replace the filters with some genuine ones.

Again my rant, why in the world would we build a transmission pan with no drain plug! What a dang mess!

 

[JR]

It is silly no doubt. Its been that way forever, not that it makes it any better.

I did install a drain plug in my pan. Its recently developed a very small leak. Annoying to know its there but not enough to do anything about it. I believe it is the gasket leaking at the bulk head. Probably going to have to find a better sealing washer than the crap one it came with.

Still beats draining it the "old fashioned" way.

You could go buy a large tub and collect your fluid for reuse if you are going to get back into it. Just make sure the pan is PRISTINE clean where you will be draining. Probably still be a good idea to funnel through a fine paint strainer or cheese cloth before putting the fluid back in.