heater and condenser r&r

[j.maddock]

what issue of TDR was this explained

 

[AnonEd]

Does this help?
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/heater-core-replacement.264476/

 

[BigPapa]

Did you mean "heater core and EVAPORATOR r&r"?

 

[Joe Mc]

If heater core is bad you should consider doing the evap at same time. Changing one of the two and not doing the other at the same time is an exercise in futility IMO. Plan on about 8 +/- hours and at least 10 minutes of help from someone, twice, once on dash removal and again on reinstall. Be very, very careful (I'm hunting wabbits) with our brittle dash tops, make sure you unplug and reconnect everything in the instructions as well as do not overtighten dash to cowl area screws. Do be sure to get a few turns in on each if these (think there's 5) screws before tightening any one. Tip: use ¼" drive shallow socket, long extension, and screwdriver type end, place small piece of paper at end of socket and insert screw, keeps screws from falling out as you're trying to get them in the "plastic" nutserts...Turn them each down a few turns at a time, then begin snugging down one at a time before tightening any one. Like torquing a head, do it in stages, don't want to crack, or further damage, that dash top. Also be tripley sure no wires or vacuum hoses get pinched when jockeying the dash back in place. Now you might think this job is a pain in the arse and I'll tell you it is a royal one. Plan on having your truck down for 2 days so you don't have to rush getting it back on line. Trust me on this. I had to do mine twice in a two week period... I got new evap and heater core from Dodge (my heater core finally went south in 2015 and I was feeding the a/c every 2 years) and don't you know, 3 things here;
1- New from Dodge heater core had a "Made in Taiwan" sticker on it and evap had a "Made in Jina" sticker.
2- The new heater core leaked immediately.
3- Dodge would provide exchange "free of charge" (wow, what a deal, eh? NOT!) replacement "but" only if I returned the defective part, in the original box "FIRST"!!!
Needless to say that was "the last time" I bought any, supposedly OEM replacement parts from Dodge. Would have done better just purchasing from aftermarket, probably better.
Yea, still a tiny bit sour about that... Oh, I forgot to mention, when I went to plead my case with Dodge I had a labor invoice a friend who owned his own shop made up for me (about $1,200) in hopes Dodge would at least give something back since it now had to be done "again". The reply I got was "sir, if we had done the work here we'd gladly do it over, no charge, but...". In case you're wondering, I asked for a labor only quote, might want to sit down now, $2,500!
Sorry for lengthy reply, but I know if I can do this in my driveway (twice mind you) so can you. It's a matter of following instructions, being very careful, and triple checking as you go.
NOTE: You might "strongly" consider having core and evap tested before you even begin. See above "did it twice"....
Take your time and try to make it as fun as a pia job like this can be. And keep us updated.
Subscribed

 

[GAmes]

I feel for you Joe, but replacing the evaporator just because the heater core has sprung a leak is an exercise in wasting money. I still am running the original evaporator in mine but did replace the heater core several years ago with an OEM from Genos. I have never had to get my system recharged. I have had to replace the compressor once though. I think the truck was around 700k at the time.

 

[Seabee]

When I replaced my evaporator in 2003, I almost replaced the heater core at the same time. I ended up not doing it, because the original looked so good and the OEM replacement was big bucks, even then.
The evaporator failed because leaves got into the compartment and rotted a pin hole in the bottom of the evaporator. I stopped this from hopefully ever happening again by installing the geno's garage charcoal filter kit over the air intake grills. So far, so good..........
It is an all day job, but if you take your time, be extra careful and methodical, you should have no problem. I followed Joe Donnelly's thread and it worked a treat.

 

[Joe Mc]

I think I recall following Joe's thread as well. Hope I never have to do that job again.

 

[j.maddock]

Does this help?
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/heater-core-replacement.264476/

yes thanks

 

[j.maddock]

Did you mean "heater core and EVAPORATOR r&r"?

Yep I meant evap.

 

[j.maddock]

If heater core is bad you should consider doing the evap at same time. Changing one of the two and not doing the other at the same time is an exercise in futility IMO. Plan on about 8 +/- hours and at least 10 minutes of help from someone, twice, once on dash removal and again on reinstall. Be very, very careful (I'm hunting wabbits) with our brittle dash tops, make sure you unplug and reconnect everything in the instructions as well as do not overtighten dash to cowl area screws. Do be sure to get a few turns in on each if these (think there's 5) screws before tightening any one. Tip: use ¼" drive shallow socket, long extension, and screwdriver type end, place small piece of paper at end of socket and insert screw, keeps screws from falling out as you're trying to get them in the "plastic" nutserts...Turn them each down a few turns at a time, then begin snugging down one at a time before tightening any one. Like torquing a head, do it in stages, don't want to crack, or further damage, that dash top. Also be tripley sure no wires or vacuum hoses get pinched when jockeying the dash back in place. Now you might think this job is a pain in the arse and I'll tell you it is a royal one. Plan on having your truck down for 2 days so you don't have to rush getting it back on line. Trust me on this. I had to do mine twice in a two week period... I got new evap and heater core from Dodge (my heater core finally went south in 2015 and I was feeding the a/c every 2 years) and don't you know, 3 things here;
1- New from Dodge heater core had a "Made in Taiwan" sticker on it and evap had a "Made in Jina" sticker.
2- The new heater core leaked immediately.
3- Dodge would provide exchange "free of charge" (wow, what a deal, eh? NOT!) replacement "but" only if I returned the defective part, in the original box "FIRST"!!!
Needless to say that was "the last time" I bought any, supposedly OEM replacement parts from Dodge. Would have done better just purchasing from aftermarket, probably better.
Yea, still a tiny bit sour about that... Oh, I forgot to mention, when I went to plead my case with Dodge I had a labor invoice a friend who owned his own shop made up for me (about $1,200) in hopes Dodge would at least give something back since it now had to be done "again". The reply I got was "sir, if we had done the work here we'd gladly do it over, no charge, but...". In case you're wondering, I asked for a labor only quote, might want to sit down now, $2,500!
Sorry for lengthy reply, but I know if I can do this in my driveway (twice mind you) so can you. It's a matter of following instructions, being very careful, and triple checking as you go.
NOTE: You might "strongly" consider having core and evap tested before you even begin. See above "did it twice"....
Take your time and try to make it as fun as a pia job like this can be. And keep us updated.
Subscribed

 

[j.maddock]

Thanks for all your time and the tips,sounds like you have some OJT behind the dash

 

[Matt42]

I have done this job, about 10 years ago. It needs doing again when I replace the dash board frame. I plan to combine the project with replacing the driver seat motors and gears.

It wasn't bad the first time, just long and involved. You will need a 1/2 inch diameter dowel that's about 41 inches long to prop up the dashboard as you work. It would have gone much faster for me if I had removed the driver seat to allow the steering column to drop closer to the floor, though. That's why I'm planning to combine the projects this time around.

When you go to reinstall the dashboard top, be sure to replace the plastic snap-in anchors that go into the steel cowl. They will be shot and the dashbbard will rattle mercilessly ever after if you don't. You can also get little properly-shaped plastic reinforcements that fit over the dashboard's mounting holes. The web around the holes will be slightly cracked, and these inexpensive things will be useful. Geno's has both. The reinforcements didn't exist when I did the job, and I had to get the snap-in anchors from the dealer. I was happy to pay the (quite reasonable) price.

 

[Hyjynx]

I have done this job, about 10 years ago. It needs doing again when I replace the dash board frame. I plan to combine the project with replacing the driver seat motors and gears.

It wasn't bad the first time, just long and involved. You will need a 1/2 inch diameter dowel that's about 41 inches long to prop up the dashboard as you work. It would have gone much faster for me if I had removed the driver seat to allow the steering column to drop closer to the floor, though. That's why I'm planning to combine the projects this time around.

When you go to reinstall the dashboard top, be sure to replace the plastic snap-in anchors that go into the steel cowl. They will be shot and the dashbbard will rattle mercilessly ever after if you don't. You can also get little properly-shaped plastic reinforcements that fit over the dashboard's mounting holes. The web around the holes will be slightly cracked, and these inexpensive things will be useful. Geno's has both. The reinforcements didn't exist when I did the job, and I had to get the snap-in anchors from the dealer. I was happy to pay the (quite reasonable) price.

Where did you get the dash frame, I just replaced the cover and mine is so brittle it now has sheet metal epoxy to the upper frame almost all the way across.

 

[Matt42]

Where did you get the dash frame, I just replaced the cover and mine is so brittle it now has sheet metal epoxy to the upper frame almost all the way across.

By "dash frame," I'm assuming that you mean the color-coordinated part that contains the glove box and knee bolster. Is that correct? It is held together with a formed steel inner frame that also holds all the wiring and ductwork. I found a decent used one at a wrecking yard. It was the correct sorta-beige color. It was from a 1997, and had been retrofit into a blue 1994 2500. It took about an hour to remove it.

If you mean the black bezel, those are available new from LMC Truck and others. I don't know anything about them, although people have reported fitment problems. Mine is still good and I can't explain why.

The dash top on mine is totally, 100% shot. I've glued the larger chunks back together with ABS cement to avoid having a large hole, and also to learn how to reinforce the "good used" one from the wrecking yard.It's presently covered with a towel. I'll probably buy a replacement MoPar from Geno's. I may just leave it in gray, or if I'm feeling ambitious, paint it to match OEM.

As an aside, I recently saw a circa 1998 Dodge 1500 locally. All that was left of the dash seemed to be the instrument cluster. The remainder was a gray blanket.

 

[Iron Duke II]

I have done this job, about 10 years ago. It needs doing again when I replace the dash board frame. I plan to combine the project with replacing the driver seat motors and gears.

It wasn't bad the first time, just long and involved. You will need a 1/2 inch diameter dowel that's about 41 inches long to prop up the dashboard as you work. It would have gone much faster for me if I had removed the driver seat to allow the steering column to drop closer to the floor, though. That's why I'm planning to combine the projects this time around.

When you go to reinstall the dashboard top, be sure to replace the plastic snap-in anchors that go into the steel cowl. They will be shot and the dashbbard will rattle mercilessly ever after if you don't. You can also get little properly-shaped plastic reinforcements that fit over the dashboard's mounting holes. The web around the holes will be slightly cracked, and these inexpensive things will be useful. Geno's has both. The reinforcements didn't exist when I did the job, and I had to get the snap-in anchors from the dealer. I was happy to pay the (quite reasonable) price.

Are the plastic snap-in anchors that go into the steel cowl and little properly-shaped plastic reinforcements that fit over the dashboard's mounting holes these? https://www.genosgarage.com/product...ment-dash-panel-snap-in-nuts-6504485/dashtops, https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ram-cummins-dash-reinforcement-kit-drk9497/dashtops

 

[Matt42]

Are the plastic snap-in anchors that go into the steel cowl and little properly-shaped plastic reinforcements that fit over the dashboard's mounting holes these? https://www.genosgarage.com/product...ment-dash-panel-snap-in-nuts-6504485/dashtops, https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ram-cummins-dash-reinforcement-kit-drk9497/dashtops

That's them. At eight bucks each, it seems expensive. But you'll be sorry if you don't buy and install them. When I did the job before, just for the heater core, Geno's didn't have them. Three of them were cracked and falling apart. I bought the full set, plus one for me to ruin learing how to install them, from the dealer. I still have the extra one because they are easy to install. At the time, they were about eight bucks apiece at the dealer, and I was glad to have bought them.

 

[JMcCoy]

Pain in the A$$! I've been procrastinating doing it again for years. My evaporator is good (), but my heater core is bad. I live in Florida!