Lift pump replavement advice

[Bunchgrass]

I've got an '00 with 280K on it and lost the lift pump/VP about 100K back and was replaced with same (as I recall). I'm starting to see some harder starts (it doesn't just fire right up after the first few revolutions) and am concerned that I'm losing the LP again. So I began looking for something simple and reliable to replace it with and have been overwhelmed with the options and pros/cons - intank or not, need to change fuel line size, switch out LP and IP .....

This is a non chipped work horse that I'd like to keep running to pull the Gen 4 out of the ditch. I'm past my wrench bending days and just need this rig to fire up and run when it's needed. Is the DRP the best option? Brand?

Thanks for your help advice. Are there threads here or on the web about installing a fuel pressure gauge?

 

[bcbender]

I put the Airdog II on mine a long time ago (~$550), but that may be overkill for just a lift pump in your usage, I did it primarily for the filtration not so much for the pump, I feel like there should be lower cost options out there for just a lift pump, I'm sure someone will chime in.

 

[Chief USA]

I've got an '00 with 280K on it and lost the lift pump/VP about 100K back and was replaced with same (as I recall). I'm starting to see some harder starts (it doesn't just fire right up after the first few revolutions) and am concerned that I'm losing the LP again. So I began looking for something simple and reliable to replace it with and have been overwhelmed with the options and pros/cons - intank or not, need to change fuel line size, switch out LP and IP .....

This is a non chipped work horse that I'd like to keep running to pull the Gen 4 out of the ditch. I'm past my wrench bending days and just need this rig to fire up and run when it's needed. Is the DRP the best option? Brand?

Thanks for your help advice. Are there threads here or on the web about installing a fuel pressure gauge?

A couple of questions first. How much money are you wanting to spend? Do you want to just stick with the current OEM system and replace the lift pump with as good a quality OEM style replacement pump as possible? If you look at my truck signatures I have the Airdog and big line kit on my truck.

The wifes truck has the big line kit pump relocation kit and an Air Tex 7153 OEM style replacement pump. Her truck has just the fuel pressure gauge mounted on the steering column. I would say this is a relatively simple and low cost way of getting good reliable fuel pressure to the VP without it being a major modification. In this configuration, the Airtex pump makes about 19 -20 psi pressure depending upon ambient temperature and will hold 17 - 18 psi on a full throttle pull in 5th gear even with the recently upgraded Bosch RV 275 injectors installed.

Personally, I would strongly advise relocating the lift pump from the side of the engine block to the frame just below & in front of the fuel tank to ensure long life and best possible conditions for good flow and pressure of the lift pump.......that having been said, it you just want to replace the junk Carter style lift pump (if that is what you are still running) with a better and cheaper lift pump as a drop in repair/upgrade, the Airtex 7153 comes with the bracket so it can be mounted exactly in place of the old Carter style pump.

Are there better pumps to be had? Sure. In my opinion, the Airtex 7153 lift pump is probably the best bang for the buck on a stock or near stock OEM truck. Since TDR blocks link to Amazon, on edit, Home Depot or O'Reilly's or any autoparts store sells this pump as far as I am award of.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Airtex-...153/308749548?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US

Amazon product ASIN B000UISKD6
If you want to add the big line & relocation kit along with a simple fuel pressure guage, this is what is installed on the wife's truck:

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Vulcan-Pusher-Pump-System-for-98-5-to-04-p/prs.htm

For a simple sterring column mount:

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Steering-Column-Pod-94-07-Dodge-p/scp.htm

If you are not wanting to fool with gauges but want to periodically monitor fuel pressure up to the VP, although not recommended, there is nothing to stop you from just leaving it installed for a quick peak under the hood:

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/VPMAX-Fuel-Pressure-Tester-Test-Gauge-Schrader-p/fpt.htm

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/VPMAX-Fuel-Pressure-Gauge-p/vfpg.htm

There are a LOT of options to choose from with respect to the fuel system. You can go with the minimum or go all out and get an Air Dog or other fuel preparation pump, sump kit, big lines, etc. If your stock pump has served you well for this long and you are not real excited about the wrenching part.......sometimes if it ain't broke.......DON'T fix it. Just fix what's broke. Hope this helps your decision making process.



By the way..........I hear ya! As I get older, I am not really excited about aggravating those herniated disks in my back.

 

[BigPapa]

I would advise converting to the current in-tank version. If you don't want to do that, I'd suggest the FASS DDRP.

 

[DavidC]

Before you go spending money you should have a pressure gauge first to help locate problems. The factory lift pump has had a lot of bad press but mine has been on there for 95k and three fuel problems with none being the pump. I have a spare pump and installed it twice troubleshooting. Both times it led to the in tank sump filters/strainers. The pump is also controlled from the ECM that can cause problems. The third problem was the pump running intermittently during start up. That wound up being a large plug on the Drivers side and cycling that plug solved the problem. Do not blame the pump (it has to get fuel to pump it) without evidence and that would require a replacement which I believe everyone should have a spare.

 

[Bunchgrass]

I'm not dissatisfied with the current performance but don't want to eat another VP44 due to stock LP failure number 2.

 

[DavidC]

I'm not dissatisfied with the current performance but don't want to eat another VP44 due to stock LP failure number 2.

Which is why you need a FP gauge all the time

 

[Ozymandias]

I would advise converting to the current in-tank version. If you don't want to do that, I'd suggest the FASS DDRP.

I second this, the OEM intank pump is great and extremely reliable.

And a pressure gauge, or at least a pressure LED that lights up if the pressure is to low, that's what I have.
A gauge is nice but all to often overseen, a bright red LED flash is always recognized.

 

[DavidC]

I second this, the OEM intank pump is great and extremely reliable.

And a pressure gauge, or at least a pressure LED that lights up if the pressure is to low, that's what I have.
A gauge is nice but all to often overseen, a bright red LED flash is always recognized.

My gauge has both.

 

[mfurrh55]

After my Lp caused my v44 failure on my 01, I put an intank Lp and never had any problems out of it ,worked for 2 or 3 years before i sold truck

 

[Bunchgrass]

Remember -- this is a 20 yr old pickup w/ 280K and I'm planning on keeping it. I lost my LP/VP44 at about 180K so it did survive a long time. The underside of this rig is pretty corroded (not rusted per se) from mud, manure, road chemical deicer etc so I'm not too excited about trying to drop the fuel tank as I can almost bet I'd snap a stud/bolt for the strap or something to that effect. One question regarding external pumps and relocating to frame rail, bad as the block location is for pulling fuel, does it have the advantage of engine heat (even from the block heater when it's plugged in) to help with low temps on the fuel? Or is that pretty insignificant?

 

[Chief USA]

Remember -- this is a 20 yr old pickup w/ 280K and I'm planning on keeping it. I lost my LP/VP44 at about 180K so it did survive a long time. The underside of this rig is pretty corroded (not rusted per se) from mud, manure, road chemical deicer etc so I'm not too excited about trying to drop the fuel tank as I can almost bet I'd snap a stud/bolt for the strap or something to that effect. One question regarding external pumps and relocating to frame rail, bad as the block location is for pulling fuel, does it have the advantage of engine heat (even from the block heater when it's plugged in) to help with low temps on the fuel? Or is that pretty insignificant?

I couldn't say for scientifically sure but I would think there may be some minor thermal heat transfer to the pump in cold weather. Definitely during hot weather. I would think any benefit would be greatly outweighed to the poor location (being slightly higher than the fuel tank & far from it), vibration, and heat though. From what I am gathering from your questions, I would think you would be just fine with a replacement Airtex 7153 mounted in the stock OEM location. On any of these trucks (2nd gen.) I cannot emphasize how important it is to have some kind of a fuel pressure indication in the cab or at bare minimum under the hood that is EASY to be seen and FREQUENTLY checked as the VP-44 depends on fuel pressure not only for fueling the engine and lubrication, but also for cooling which is VERY important.

I put a simple steering column mount fuel pressure gauge in the wife's truck. That is the ONLY gauge she would allow as she does not like all of the gauges like in my truck because they are distracting for her. It was not difficult to install and I am happy that she watches that gauge and tells me any time it drops below 17 psi and she is happy that is the only aftermarket gauge in her cab. Boost and EGT gauges were a TOTAL non-starter for her. LOL! I was able to sneak the Bosch RV 275 injectors install when I had the head gasket replaced but she noticed the increase in power and change in sound and asked me about it but she liked it.

I think you will be fine with the Airtex 7153 pump which is an easy, straight forward install without much if any modification. Again, I HIGHLY recommend a fuel pressure monitoring set up of some kind.

 

[Joe Mc]

Look at the Glacier Diesel Power site. See big line kit & fuel filter kits. I got my system from them when they used to have the Walbro pumps, not listening it anymore? I believe it was their GDP-392 system. Came with psi reg, tank fill adapter for psi reg return, filter mount, spin on filter case, big lines and all required push lock fittings. Guess they no longer supply? Anyhow I've had the system since around 06 and no problem ever. Guess in order to sell Raptor systems they had to agree to exclusivity??

 

[petersonj]

I'm starting to see some harder starts (it doesn't just fire right up after the first few revolutions) and am concerned that I'm losing the LP again

You are not diagnosing - you are guessing. Other things can cause hard starts, such as air leaking into fuel return lines while truck is setting. Or, batteries is poor condition causing slow cranking speed. Or, poor battery / ground connections, also causing slow cranking speed.

- John

 

[Bunchgrass]

You are not diagnosing - you are guessing. Other things can cause hard starts, such as air leaking into fuel return lines while truck is setting. Or, batteries is poor condition causing slow cranking speed. Or, poor battery / ground connections, also causing slow cranking speed.

- John

I know I'm not diagnosing anything. I'm trying to do some preventative maintenance so I don't end up losing another VP44 like I did last time since the last repair was just replace with the same stock products.

 

[petersonj]

I know I'm not diagnosing anything. I'm trying to do some preventative maintenance so I don't end up losing another VP44 like I did last time since the last repair was just replace with the same stock products.

I understand your concerns regarding the VP44 injection pump. I recommend to do what @DavidC suggests - install a gauge to see if the fuel system is performing properly and then make decisions based on that.

Those who recommend an in-tank pump are right on. The VP44 on my truck was replaced at 87,000 miles under warranty. The warranty also included removing the engine-mounted lift pump and installing a relayed in-tank lift pump. I ran that lift pump for 164,000 miles. I replaced it with a used FASS frame-mounted lift pump - not because of lift pump failure, but because I wanted to have the ability to do a roadside lift pump replacement in case of a lift pump failure.

By the way, if you decide to install an in-tank lift pump, don't be alarmed when you see its operating pressure. I checked my fuel pressure the same day the warranty VP44 and the in-tank lift pump were installed. Fuel pressure at the VP44 inlet was 6 psi at idle and 3 psi at wide open throttle. I have never been concerned about that because it is my opinion that as long there is a positive fuel pressure at the VP44 pump inlet under any driving condition, then all is well. I use a fuel pressure switch with an LED lamp that will light when fuel pressure is low. I have just passed 350,000 miles on my truck with over 260,000 miles on the warrantied VP44 injection pump.

- John

 

[Bunchgrass]

I understand your concerns regarding the VP44 injection pump. I recommend to do what @DavidC suggests - install a gauge to see if the fuel system is performing properly and then make decisions based on that.

Those who recommend an in-tank pump are right on. The VP44 on my truck was replaced at 87,000 miles under warranty. The warranty also included removing the engine-mounted lift pump and installing a relayed in-tank lift pump. I ran that lift pump for 164,000 miles. I replaced it with a used FASS frame-mounted lift pump - not because of lift pump failure, but because I wanted to have the ability to do a roadside lift pump replacement in case of a lift pump failure.

By the way, if you decide to install an in-tank lift pump, don't be alarmed when you see its operating pressure. I checked my fuel pressure the same day the warranty VP44 and the in-tank lift pump were installed. Fuel pressure at the VP44 inlet was 6 psi at idle and 3 psi at wide open throttle. I have never been concerned about that because it is my opinion that as long there is a positive fuel pressure at the VP44 pump inlet under any driving condition, then all is well. I use a fuel pressure switch with an LED lamp that will light when fuel pressure is low. I have just passed 350,000 miles on my truck with over 260,000 miles on the warrantied VP44 injection pump.

- John

Thanks for the advice (everyone). What warranty did you have that covered you at 87,000? Mine was 70,000 as I recall and I lost my transmission at 74,000 (NV5600). Supposedly had no oil left in it yet no sign of drips anywhere. That one hurt. Like 4k hurt.

My only concerns with frame mounted pumps is exposure to damage. We tend to get into some pretty bad situations where stuff under the rig could get damaged (going in the ditch or snow banks can do that. Messed up my 4WD actuator).

Regarding a gauge --- should I just purchase the adapter and splice it in my fuel line somewhere (where?) and then run the connection through the firewall somewhere? More details would help.

 

[BigPapa]

Regarding a gauge --- should I just purchase the adapter and splice it in my fuel line somewhere (where?) and then run the connection through the firewall somewhere? More details would help.

Pick you out a gauge, go to the manufacturers website and find the gauge there. The installation instructions should be there to tell you how to install it.

 

[Ozymandias]

Regarding a gauge --- should I just purchase the adapter and splice it in my fuel line somewhere (where?) and then run the connection through the firewall somewhere? More details would help.

Here, comes with everything you need for the install.

https://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-pow...9TLm_2qw_VC8PgtsPwKn-BC9aD05lCfkaArXaEALw_wcB

 

[DavidC]

Nothing against a light warning but that only tells you when you have a problem. With a gauge it may show a gradual drop so you can try to locate the problem before the disaster such as the clogging of a filter. The latest ISSPRO gauge has a light also which you can program with the added cost software. My 99 has two ports on the filter pre and post and mine is plumbed to the post so I can see whats going on and trace from the filter to the tank. Your 00 would need to be tee'd in after the filter I imagine.