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48RE Torque Converter Bolts "Backed out"

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I heard a noise in the pan of my truck the other day and somebody suggested that I look to see if my TC bolts had back out. Upon inspection I found 4 that were fine and up to spec, 1 stripped out when I went to torque it (35Ft Pnds) and 1 that was just flat missing. I am wondering if it is floating around in the bell housing making the slight rattling that i am hearing. I removed the inspection plate but it did not come rolling out like I hoped and on idle there is no wobble in the TC or plate.
This trans was rebuilt and installed before I purchased the truck (45k miles ago) so there really is no way of knowing how long it has been like this. It does have an upgraded TC and I believe the stock flex plate. All trans operations are working great except a little rattle in there.
Questions,
- are the just regular grade 8 3/8 bolts?
- Is running with 5 bolts acceptable or am I just asking for trouble? I believe it has bee this way for a while.
- Helicoil or tap with one size bigger bolt to correct the issue and then would balancing be an issue? I am hoping to run a tap in it but fear it is too far gone buy the amount of metal on the threads
- Is there a way to check if that bolt is still lingering around in there or a way to snag it.

I am hoping to not have to drop the trans but as usual this is the cost of doing business. lol

Trans Bolt.jpg
 
Go around with a magnet inside the bell housing.

Driving with it now is asking for trouble as your converter is totally out of balance now.
 
I agree. The two that are now now removed are right next to each other so its defiantly unbalanced. I tried the magnet with no luck I am wondering if it never got installed as I don't think it can be hiding in the there without eventually working its way to the inspection window.
Thanks for the tip!
 
I could be in the starter housing, or like you say, was never installed. Strip the threads on the other one speaks for the quality they did back then.
 
I am thinking I will just quit stalling and pull it apart and make sure the bolt is not logged up there somewhere. I would hate to get it callback together only to have a bolt wreck the housing a few thousand miles later.
While I am at it I figure I will replace the Flexplate with a billet one and then I can mark that off my "to do" list as they seem to be a weak point with mild upgrades.
Do you think it is possible to get some 10inch bolts to replace the bell housing and just slide the trans back for enough to get the flex plate and possible the TC out?
I have never dropped a 48re with 4wd and just imagine it is a bit more time. I could change out a TH350 that was hooked to my 327 in about 2 hrs on my old hot rod but it was 2wd and I was 20 yrs younger. lol
 
I pulled my 96 out together, it's a job for me anyway. I have a the best worst trans jack China makes at harbor freight, it worked ok.

A helper would have been awesome it was pretty awkward assembly and center of gravity.

Only pulled one so no clue how much work I saved or created doing it that way.

The torque converter is a beast all in its own.
 
Na you need to drop it entirely.
But it is not that bad of a job, I did it myself with the truck on the ground.
First take of the shafts, then the transfer case, then the Trans.
Beauty is that you dont need to support the engine while doing this, it is perfectly balanced on the engine mounts and hold there by the exhaust.

You want to buy a barring tool to turn the crank for install of all the converter bolts, and they go in with loc-tite.

You might consider a new upgraded converter while you are in. Big benefits from that, together with all new threads.
 
Did you use red or blue locktight?
I am hoping to salvage my TC. It has been upgraded and is of the billet style. I believe it is a triple disk by how hard it locks up but am not 100% and am happy with it aside from a hole being stripped out. I wouldn't mind a Goerend single but don't want to drop the coin unless needed.

I have my eye on a new harbor freight sub par trans jack unless I can fabricate something to insert into my floor jack and the barring tool is already in my tool arsenal.
Would a few long extensions help with the housing bolts?
 
Yeah $179 it is what it is. Can't really blame anyone for buying something like that. I have one, how many times are you going to use it.

Screenshot_20210321-184131_Chrome.jpg



I used the mega long combination extension deal for some of them on top. Again mines a little older but probably super similar when it comes to the nut and bolt part on the engine side.

Also Goerend makes a lot of relabled converters for folks. There used to be a blog post they had up on how to tell it was one of theirs regardless of who you got it from. No more pictures but they have the FAQ up still.

Screenshot_20210321-184616_Chrome.jpg
 
Make sure your torque converter bolts are not too long. Billet torque converters have blind holes and too long bolts will bottom out without providing proper clamping force on the flex plate and they will show proper torque. I caught this while installing a rebuilt engine in my truck. Both bolts were listed for my application. Always check bolt length going into blind holes when any components are changed.

Long Torque Converter Bolts.jpg
 
Yes with long, wobbly extension you can reach all transmission bolts.

For the converter, you can try with helicoil inserts. But these threads are very short - i don't know if you can use them in this place.

Make sure about the bolt length, this is crucial.
 
The long studs are still helpful when going back in, especially with a jack that does not tilt in all directions. They can't be too long as the bell housing will hit the tunnel. Make sure you grind a slot in the end so you can easily remove them with a large screw driver.
 
Dropped the trans and found only 5 bolts in the TC and one was stripped so only 4 actually effective. It looks like the flexplate is buggered up and that the TC walked out of it a bit.
I am wondering if I should be concerned about the TC.
FX2.jpg FX1.jpg
 
Oh boy, that doesn't look good.
Like they forced the transmission to the Engine. Without care for lining it up.
I also don't see a drop of grease on the center bore of the flex plate where it should be.
Baaaad install.
 
For the install - make sure that the Converter is properly seated into the transmissions pump, it goes in two steps till it bottoms out.
 
Thanks for the help Ozy.
I agree this was a poor job on install. I need to make sure the TC is still good before I put this girl back together. I had no issue with it before but don't want to get it all together and have more issues.
I got a kick out of the work there did on the TC bolts. If you can't fit grind it!! lol
Bolts1.jpg
 
Oh boy again, usually these bolts are flat on the front, with just that little threads really engaging no wonder that they stripped it.

I wouldn't worry to much about the converter itself, it's quite massive and therefore it bends the flex plate to it and not vice versa.

Can you fix the stripped threads?
 
Tomorrow I am going to tap down all of them to clean them up and put a helicoil in the stripped one.
I am hoping to save it and should be able to.
But we shall see. lol
 
Tomorrow I am going to tap down all of them to clean them up and put a helicoil in the stripped one.
I am hoping to save it and should be able to.
But we shall see. lol
Test it on the bench with your new flex plate and bolts to ensure you can get the required torque on the converter bolts before you install it. Could save you some work if the heli-coil repair fails.
 
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Test it on the bench with your new flex plate to ensure you can get the required torque on the converter bolts before you install it. Could save you some work if the heli-coil repair fails.

Excellent advice! I will do it.
I can only imagine the rounded bolts were to help them get lined up with the flexplate. I have never done the install but if they would cut that corner I bet its a PITA.
My neck is starting to hurt just thinking about it. lol
 
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