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Preparing to remove dash, replace heater core, evap, and dash cover

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When the weather warms up a little more I plan on tackling the same project. Evap has had a leak for years and I'm sick on cooking all summer. Going to replace the heater core at the same time and Rand R the whole box. Putting on a new dash at the same time. Will get it from LMC as they are local to me. Would you happen to have a list of parts you had on hand before you started the job? Any tips?

JD
 
As far as parts are concerened, the only things I replaced were the core, evap, dash top and i did put a new drier and condenser with a new line between them, but those of course are in the engine compartment and in front of the intercooler. Ive had the dashes out of a number of my different cummins over the years its almost not even a pain in the butt anymore :) My 2001 had been sitting for about six years and as you can see was taken over by mice, so I took all of the ductwork out of it ( easy to do as they are screwed to the dash top anyway) and cleaned all of those out as well. Some of the screws for the dash top go through ears on the defrost duct and are tough to get to with the dash just leaning forward, but its doable. I think most of the screws are 7mm so a magnetic nutdriver is handy. They have phillips heads also so it can be done that way. I would check all the acutators and couplers for the doors as well since you have it out. I put new doors and couplers in from Heater Treater I believe, acutators were ok. The plastic subframe of the dash in my truck was EXTREMELY brittle, so handle with care. I got the Mopar dash top from Genos, as it came color matched. Fit well and supposedly is a better material than the original.
 
Over this last winter when I start the truck or when changing the selector for air position I get a loud bang from the hvac box. It is a very loud and will scare the pants off you if you don't know its coming. On start up as the vacuum pump pressure builds and moves the circulation doors around. If I leave the selector in defrost it dose not make slamming noise. Any idea which door would cause this condition? Just trying to narrow it down to get all the parts needed to fix it.
 
Over this last winter when I start the truck or when changing the selector for air position I get a loud bang from the hvac box. It is a very loud and will scare the pants off you if you don't know its coming. On start up as the vacuum pump pressure builds and moves the circulation doors around. If I leave the selector in defrost it dose not make slamming noise. Any idea which door would cause this condition? Just trying to narrow it down to get all the parts needed to fix it.
Is it working normally other than the loud bang? Maybe something with one of the actuators?
 
Finally got it all taken apart today. Here is my evaporator, amazing I had any airflow at all!

709A0B74-4051-40A0-B0E6-8FDA991B4BC5.jpeg
 
It is functioning normally. I'll find out for sure when I get it apart and try for a few pics.
Parts are getting ordered up today!
 
One question, you said you got offshore junk from the dealer the first time, what did you do the next time?
Sorry for late reply. Since I was standing at the dealer parts counter and they had one in stock I bought it there... Had they not had one I would have gone to nearest parts house and purchased.
 
Finished the job yesterday. I think it came out really good and I’m pleased with the results. I believe I mentioned already that I went with the Geno’s aftermarket dash for about $250. It did need to be painted and I’ll admit I was concerned I wouldn’t be able to do a decent job and it would end up looking like a diy job gone wrong. Turned out to be no issue at all. Just follow the directions with the paint kit and most importantly do multiple thin coats. I did at least four, waiting 10 minutes between each and it came out great.

As far as fit is concerned, they mention that it is not an exact fit and some trimming is required. I found that all the screw holes lined up fine and no trimming was needed along the sides or back. The only place I needed to trim was along the front where the trim bezel snaps into place and the passenger air bag unit goes. It was pretty minor and quickly accomplished with a Dremel tool. Once you snap everything into place, these areas are all hidden behind trim.

Final verdict on it depends on what’s more important to you. Geno’s sells the Mopar part for $399 and it would save you time. Exact fit, no painting, no trimming. But will it crack again or was it redesigned? Who knows. The aftermarket is $259 but you do need to buy the paint kit. In the end you save maybe $100 going aftermarket. I’m hoping that as they say this is made of a plastic that won’t be so susceptible to cracking.

The new dash cover can be installed with the dash still in the truck, just pulled aft. Personally I decided to take it out completely and do it on the bench. Once you get it pulled back, it just isn’t that much harder to remove it from the truck in my opinion.

While I had the dash out, this was a great time to remove the A/C plenum and rebuild it. In my case the heater core was leaking, so I replaced it. Also proactively replaced the evaporator. Cleaned it all up removing 20 years of dirt, pine needles and who knows what else, all of which was severely restricting air flow. All the foam on the blend/mode doors was disintegrating, so I removed it and attached weather stripping where the doors seat.

It is a big project and took me four days total but could probably be done in 2 without interruptions. Maybe even one if you have a helper or work really fast. I preferred to take my time and go slow. I spent the better part of a day just working on the plenum.

Hope this helps anyone contemplating this project. I’m subscribed to the thread, so if anyone has questions, I’d be happy to answer.
 
I have not posted anything for a long time because my 97 2500 has been great since I rebuilt the automatic transmission years ago. Now I have to replace my heater and evaporator cores and getting ready to buy parts. I see that Genoes has them listed at $128.00 and $338.7 respectivel. I would like to know if the quality and price are a good bang for the buck. What do you guys say.
 
I have not posted anything for a long time because my 97 2500 has been great since I rebuilt the automatic transmission years ago. Now I have to replace my heater and evaporator cores and getting ready to buy parts. I see that Genoes has them listed at $128.00 and $338.7 respectivel. I would like to know if the quality and price are a good bang for the buck. What do you guys say.
When I was buying the parts about a month ago, they didn’t have the heater core in stock and I found it impossible to get an OEM anywhere. Ended up going with an aftermarket from the local Napa. Evap I went with the OEM from Genos. Believe it or not, the Mopar part is made in China now, so is it really worth spending that much when you can get an aftermarket for under $100? I wish I knew the answer.
 
Believe it or not, the Mopar part is made in China now,
I just replaced the antenna base on my 14 dart. Bought the base from local dodge dealer. Right on the box it says MADE IN CHINA. Including the original, this is the 3rd antenna base ive put on this car. If they could have figured out the problem I was having when it was still under warranty I probably would have gone thru 5 or 6 or more by now. And Im just counting the time it was still under warranty.
BTW, I did a post mortum on the one I just replaced, and I can see what the problem probably is. The connection from the base to the antenna is just a spring loaded piece of copper rubbing up against the antenna center pin. I have a pretty good idea that there are many other parts that were from china when it was brand new.
 
I just replaced the antenna base on my 14 dart. Bought the base from local dodge dealer. Right on the box it says MADE IN CHINA. Including the original, this is the 3rd antenna base ive put on this car. If they could have figured out the problem I was having when it was still under warranty I probably would have gone thru 5 or 6 or more by now. And Im just counting the time it was still under warranty.
BTW, I did a post mortum on the one I just replaced, and I can see what the problem probably is. The connection from the base to the antenna is just a spring loaded piece of copper rubbing up against the antenna center pin. I have a pretty good idea that there are many other parts that were from china when it was brand new.
It's disgusting. Supporting a commie regime that will some day be our govt. and at this rate it's not far off. I truly support made in the USA but finding it is another story.
 
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