12 volt power source from un-used dash connectors?

[WBraico]

Hey gang, I've typed in every possible way into the search bar for some info on the extra un-used connectors below the radio on my "07" 2wd 2500 and nothing useful comes up ? I've gone out to the internet and most lead me to the Ram body builder site to possibly look for a wireing diagram but those link don't go anywhere either. I'm just trying to get an ignition on 12 volt source for a low fuel pressure led and piezo beeper, yes I know I could just tap into the cigarette lighter power but that would be to easy lol. If I only knew what amperage fuse these un-used connectors were tied into it would make life so much easier for future accessories.
Thanks

 

[BigPapa]

Which connectors are you saying are “unused”? They all look to have something plugged in them.

 

[WBraico]

Those 3 on the left and 3 on the right are just pushed thru the plastic for additional accessories like transfer case selector or seat heaters etc of which I don't have. Seems like it was easier getting wireing color codes and diagrams for my 2nd gen.

 

[BigPapa]

The one on the far left is the Transfer Case Selector Swith.

Can’t tell what the second one is. The third one is the driver Heated Seat Switch.

The green connector on the right is for the Rear Power Sliding Backlight switch.

The one on the bottom right is for the Passenger Seat Heater switch.

 

[Wiredawg]

I know this doesn't answer your question, but I've liked installing Painless Wiring fuse panel from Genos for accessories, except for my 2017 Ram 5500, which has pre wired programable switches. It can be installed in the engine compartment or under the dash, I install them in the engine compartment. It has 3 switched and 4 always hot fused circuits.

EDIT: I like a switched circuit for backup lights, nice when hitching trailer without having truck in reverse, another one for air compressor, switched to use just fogs as daytime running lights, always hot for the CB/weather radio.

Anyhoo, just another way to configure circuits for your truck.

Cheers, Ron

 

[WBraico]

Thanks Big Papa, yeah the second one is all taped up from the factory for some reason? Seems like a bunch of wires for each seat heater? Maybe I can pull ignition hot from one of those, I temporarily tapped into the cigarette lighter circuit for my low fuel pressure LED and piezo beeper but it remains hot after you turn the key off until you crack the door open, probably so you could still listen to the radio after you shut the engine off. So I'd like to pull from a circuit that shuts down when the motor is shut down.
Thanks for posting that diagram to.

 

[WBraico]

Thanks Ron, I will be talking to Geno's in the morning and will look into that Painless fuse panel. I always add backup lights on my vehicles and a separate switch, what I did on my 2nd gen I tapped into the oem purple backup wire and wired it to a switch and relay for my added LED back up lights.
Thanks for that info.
Walt

 

[mwilson]

I have added a complete row of switches and I avoid the truck's electrical system like the plague.....

All of those unused plugs seem to draw power from the TIPM which is enough for me to steer clear....

The only interaction involving my trucks factory wiring and the Painless relay set is the keyed power wire which is fed by the cig lighter wire. All the rest is routed through my Painless relays with a direct feed from the battery....with a 30 amp breaker mounted to the battery box.

15 years strong with no issues....

 

[Wiredawg]

I have added a complete row of switches and I avoid the truck's electrical system like the plague.....

All of those unused plugs seem to draw power from the TIPM which is enough for me to steer clear....

The only interaction involving my trucks factory wiring and the Painless relay set is the keyed power wire which is fed by the cig lighter wire. All the rest is routed through my Painless relays with a direct feed from the battery....with a 30 amp breaker mounted to the battery box.

15 years strong with no issues....

Just to add to your comments: keeping your factory wiring clean and documenting your additions can go along way in preventing gremlins and simplify troubleshooting electrical problems, when they do occur. Clean grounding is critical clean em, shine em, and add dielectric grease. All new connections use it, and every time you touch a factory one, clean it and add dielectric grease.

Anyhoo, please feel free to ask us any questions and if close enough, I work for food and beer.

Cheers, Ron

 

[WBraico]

Lol Food and beer good to know, someday i'm gonna get out of CA. and see what the USA looks like and Texas is on my list ! Yes I keep a tube of dielectric grease everywhere, It kept my 2nd Gen going for 22 years, now I'm on my 3rd Gen and will be repeating everything. But the painless fuse block sounds like the ticket. Do you find it better to mount it somewhere in the cab rather than under the hood? And rather than drilling 1/2" holes all over the dash for toggle switches where's the best fitting place for a cluster of switches and indicator lights or just rocker switches?
Thanks ,Walt

 

[Wiredawg]

Lol Food and beer good to know, someday i'm gonna get out of CA. and see what the USA looks like and Texas is on my list ! Yes I keep a tube of dielectric grease everywhere, It kept my 2nd Gen going for 22 years, now I'm on my 3rd Gen and will be repeating everything. But the painless fuse block sounds like the ticket. Do you find it better to mount it somewhere in the cab rather than under the hood? And rather than drilling 1/2" holes all over the dash for toggle switches where's the best fitting place for a cluster of switches and indicator lights or just rocker switches?
Thanks ,Walt

I like high on the firewall, driver's side for the fuse panel. I used KC mini lighted switches, left side of steering column on my former 02 and 03. On my 09, I found an emergency vehicle supply on the Internet that had 5 HD lighted switches that I mounted in the lower center of dash in junk tray. mini dip switches would work too. I have A pillar switches on my 14 Jeep, but found I needed to darken the one for the HALO DTR lights, as light in switch was too bright.

Happy to help long distance as needed.

Cheers, Ron

 

[mwilson]

Lol Food and beer good to know, someday i'm gonna get out of CA. and see what the USA looks like and Texas is on my list ! Yes I keep a tube of dielectric grease everywhere, It kept my 2nd Gen going for 22 years, now I'm on my 3rd Gen and will be repeating everything. But the painless fuse block sounds like the ticket. Do you find it better to mount it somewhere in the cab rather than under the hood? And rather than drilling 1/2" holes all over the dash for toggle switches where's the best fitting place for a cluster of switches and indicator lights or just rocker switches?
Thanks ,Walt

I've been waiting for this question....

Painless Relay Block is mounted behind the end panel on the left side of the instrument panel...

If you don't have the power rear window or heated seat switches from the factory you can remove the lower cubby and mount your switches here...

#ad

 

[mwilson]

I’ll get current pictures when I get home, the one above is from several years ago...

 

[Wiredawg]

I found all my previous TDR posts on adding Painless and switches, but pics all stripped out, not much good without them.

 

[WBraico]

I've been waiting for this question....

Painless Relay Block is mounted behind the end panel on the left side of the instrument panel...

If you don't have the power rear window or heated seat switches from the factory you can remove the lower cubby and mount your switches here...

#ad

Nice! Are those rockers from K4 switches or maybe KCs? And it looks like they were the correct size to be able to snap right in the cubby tray or did it take a bit of tweaking?
Thanks

 

[WBraico]

I found all my previous TDR posts on adding Painless and switches, but pics all stripped out, not much good without them.

Yes, love the pics.

 

[WBraico]

I dont have all the bells and whistles so there's plenty of vacant space on the dash as you can see. Also I don't know what the previous owner had on his fingers when he would activate or deactivate the A/C compressor button but its ALL gooey and disfigured lol. Is it possible to change our just this one button without replacing the whole cluster?
Thanks

 

[mwilson]

Nice! Are those rockers from K4 switches or maybe KCs? And it looks like they were the correct size to be able to snap right in the cubby tray or did it take a bit of tweaking?
Thanks

Carling Contura II Series....the actuators are Western Star Truck but made by Carling...

Here is a little reading to get you started..https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/V-Series-II-III_datasheet.pdf

They will snap in but are a whisker loose and can tip a little. That's why you see the Carling spacers in the unused holes. The center spacer had to be trimmed on the bandsaw a bit for a perfect fit...

 

[BigPapa]

Is it possible to change our just this one button without replacing the whole cluster?

I'd imagine you'll have to replace the complete control panel.

 

[WBraico]

I'd imagine you'll have to replace the complete control panel.

Yeah I think your right, I was at a self serve wrecking yard over the weekend looking for parts on another build (67 nova) but went to the truck section and there were dozens of 2nd gens but no 3rd gens to pick thru.