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'06 5.9 w/Truck Camper with P2122 Code and in limp mode

2015 ram 3500 6.7L wont charge, goes into batter saver mode

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When you post for help, please state what truck you are needing help with. Some posts/requests for assistance are confusing as two or more trucks are listed in signature with no reference to the one needing help.
 
Moderator,



This one should be sticky. We get a lot of posts here that don't mention what is the year and model of the truck with the problem.
 
Moderator,



Can the post fields be changed to require mandatory yr. , trans type, 4x4 etc. . ? Then a comment field as we have now for narrative?



I agree with Joe... Often when we have stressful dilemma's in life, we forget details important to fixing our problems! :)
 
I suggest putting the location in the subject line. I don't read all of the threads, but if I saw one in my area when I scanned the forum, I'd be more than happy to read it and lend a hand. I guess this would be more for travellers.
 
I think it would be polite for folks to follow up on everyones recommendations with how the problem was corrected. I think this would be of benefit to each member for future reference. So many times a little trick in fixing something can be helpful.



Thanks



Don
 
CRSmith said:
I suggest putting the location in the subject line.

YES! This should be mandatory. I periodically look through the subject lines to see if anyone is stuck in Las Vegas. Not a single subject line today has a location in it. This doesn't exactly seem like 9-1-1. Location, location, location!!!! Else, you must not need help all that badly, eh?
 
Hello, I have 2001 4X4 reg cab, rear left caliper seems to be hanging up bad smell, is this an common prob or can it be something else? Should I just get a rebuilt or can I do it with a kit. any help great. Thanks Brian
 
Its likely the phenolic resin caliper piston that's not releasing (they are notorious for this).



The A-1 Cardone reman caliper part number for the left rear is 18-4807~$75. A better alternative might be the Wagner loaded caliper which is new, part # TQM25394~$110. Wagner Thermoquiet pads are part #MX1096 (or severe duty SX1096).



Or source just the caliper and do rear pads on both sides.



If the caliper appears to release properly, you can also ck. out the emergency brake shoes for proper operation and release (but you will need a special socket to remove the nut on the hub/spindle after the axle shaft is removed). Look at my article a couple of issues ago in the "from the shop floor" or consult with your FSM.



Now's a great time to flush the brake system while the system is open.



Good luck

Andy
 
My increasing favorite is the guy with a VP-44/24 valve truck who jumps in with "I know I SHOULD have installed gauges - but I bought some fancy chrome step-bars and mudflaps instead, and now I have a poorly running truck with frequent dead-pedal - what should I do?"



My first reaction is to respond "trade that truck for the skateboard you are obviously far better suited"... :rolleyes:



I get a bit irritated at guys who won't provide all related clues, who fail to install at least the BASIC "tools" (Gauges!) to monitor and analyze engine problems - and THEN expect the rest of us to troubleshoot their predictable and deserved problems from clear across the continent, sight unseen... :rolleyes:



But then, I'm just a hopeless old grouch... ;) :-laf :-laf
 
Hi guy. s

I traveled from CA. TO NC> and back, returning back in pecos Tx. Flying J I think I GOt bad Fuel, I noticed at cruise @70mph I noticed a slight miss every now and then. after traveling over100 mile I GOT OFF AND CAME TO A STOP. MY ENGINE TRIED TO SYOP RUNNING TO KEEP IT RUNNING I HAD TO KEEP GIVING IT FUEL. i DRAINED THE FILTER GOT A LITTLEWATER AND BLACK STUFF MAYBE HALF TEASPOON FULL. iT RAN OK AT FRWY SPEED, ONLY AT IDLE OR VERY LOW SPEED DOES IT TRY TO STOP. i REPLACED FILTER, SAME PROBLEM. CANNOT DRIVE IT IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC. I LIVE IN THE CITY. PLEASE HELP,I NEED TO STOP WALKING, JIMMY.
 
I have a 01 3500 dually 4x4 automatic. I had it plugged in for 2 and a half days and when I drove a few blocks engine light came on and the odometer read "NO BR" I left it unplugged for two days and tried it again after starting and stopping engine the light went out. any idea what a BR code is
 
2000 auto 4x4. Drove 200 miles towing fiver. Shut down, went in to register. Back in truck, starts, revs up, put in drive, shuts down, over and over. Lake Placid, Fla. Has Hypertech Chip Module. Seems to idle way too fast.
 
Help, I have a 98. 5 24v 4x4 club cab, auto trans, running Super chip engine fueler level 2 for about 5 years, MBPR pipe and a BHAF 284,450 miles replaced three lift pumps for insurance since owning the truck new, today leaving work I lost all throttle response then the engine started pulsing, black smoke puffing out the exhaust but no power, got towed home dead in the driveway read codes and got P1688 and P0252 any help would be greatly appreciated, I can here the lift pump running when I bump the starter
 
Help us help--

Hi:



Its most likely the injection pump, I think your code reader is confused on the P0252. . (see below, from "chapter 25 of the FSM").



I would also verify the lift pump's psi and volume during a bump the key while it runs for 20 seconds event.



I would also remove the chip and retest just to make sure its not the cause of the codes/potential elec. issues before throwing a inj. pump at it.



Good luck

Andy



>>>>

P0251 (a), (c)

Fuel Inj. Pump Mech. Failure

Fuel Valve Feedback Circuit

Problem sensed with fuel circuit internal to fuel injection

pump.

P0253 (b), (c)

Fuel Injection Pump Fuel Valve

Open Circuit

Problem sensed with fuel circuit internal to fuel injection

pump.

P0254 (c), (g)

Fuel Injection Pump Fuel Valve

Current Too High

Problem caused by internal fuel injection pump failure.

P1688 (a), (c)

Internal Fuel Injection Pump

Controller Failure

Internal problem within the fuel injection pump. Low power,

engine derated, or engine stops.

P1689 (a), (c)

No Communication Between

ECM and Injection Pump Module

Data link circuit failure between ECM and fuel injection pump
 
Need help on my 99 dodge 2500 24 valve ! Crankshaft position sensor code keeps coming up truck runs but rough put new sensor in n still does same thing any ideas guys can't drive it
 
Need help on my 99 dodge 2500 24 valve ! Crankshaft position sensor code keeps coming up truck runs but rough put new sensor in n still does same thing any ideas guys can't drive it

1. You didn't give us much to help you with..Did you have a P0335, P0336?
2. Hopefully you purchased the mopar/cummins sensor as a replacement part--aftermarket sensors for mopars are usually junk
3. If 1 and 2 above, you may have wiring probs from the terminal pins on the 50 way ecm connector to the sensor.
4. Unplug sensor and check for 5 volts and ground.
5. locate sensor signal terminal pin at ckp sensor and assimilate same pin at 50 way ecm harness. With batteries disco'd and ecm harness disco'd (hex bolt that uses a 4mm or 5mm? ball haus hex wrench--very gently use a paper clip etc. at each terminal pin--add temporary battery power jumper to the paper clip on the ecm end, rig up a headlamp bulb--attach one lead to ground and the other the paper clip on your sensor terminal..is the bulb bright? if so that likely means the wiring to the sensor "signal/return" is ok. We've done a voltage drop test here vs. ohming out the wire--ohming is not accurate to know if you have a good circuit--only that you have continuity.
6. This leaves you with three possible issues--bad ecm, bad new sensor or a bad tone ring on the engine crank shaft
7 Id lean towards the bad ecm--the work around maybe as follows--cut the wire for the ckp sensor signal/return run the tag end from the sensor and splice it onto the cmp (cam sensor) signal/return wire--this may fool the truck into idling/running smoothly again.
 
I have a 2012 6.7 Cummins 2500. The truck Idles crazy! When I start the truck it runs fine for about 15 seconds then starts to get choppy. I replaced the FCA with the Bosch replacement (ORiellys and dodge want 3x the amount for the new brand). I also replaced the pigtail and connector as the connector was broken. I just replaced the Camshaft position sensor. The truck is throwing a P0254 (Camshaft circuit higj) and P0088 Code (fuel rail pressure high). I have taken the truck to 3 shops and got 3 different answers. 1 said injectors "Because that's what rough idle always is". 1 shop said ECM or CP3 and 1 shop said wiring harness. None of them gave me a specific fix or garentee fix it was just opinions. Any Help on this would Be immensely appreciated!! I'm leaning toward wire or engine harness? any help would be amazing
 
I have a 2012 6.7 Cummins 2500. The truck Idles crazy! When I start the truck it runs fine for about 15 seconds then starts to get choppy. I replaced the FCA with the Bosch replacement (ORiellys and dodge want 3x the amount for the new brand). I also replaced the pigtail and connector as the connector was broken. I just replaced the Camshaft position sensor. The truck is throwing a P0254 (Camshaft circuit higj) and P0088 Code (fuel rail pressure high). I have taken the truck to 3 shops and got 3 different answers. 1 said injectors "Because that's what rough idle always is". 1 shop said ECM or CP3 and 1 shop said wiring harness. None of them gave me a specific fix or garentee fix it was just opinions. Any Help on this would Be immensely appreciated!! I'm leaning toward wire or engine harness? any help would be amazing
 
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