Fan clutch / MAP sensor questions

[Tuesdak]

You were showing a high temp while everything is cold reading on one. Was that a calculated reading?

The trans sensor showing 32F - does that ever change?

What is the ac pressure sensor reading?

I am starting to agree with you on corrupt ECM. Each tuner may affect different tables. Worse if a flash went south who knows what was touched that no tuner accesses. ECM Hardware failure like bad memory or flash is also possible. A dealer may not want to touch a deleted truck.

FWIW the EV fan clutch works well when it does vs. obsolete spring thermal clutches. Less delay to get the fan going when you stomp it on a grade so the ECT doesn't spike as high waiting on the fan to get going. Airflow for the AC condenser rather than an afterthought of engine cooling.

Don't forget Morning Sickness where a fan clutch is locked up for 2 min or longer on startup. Fluid movement when off can lock the clutch in as well as it being locked in on shutdown. The rare times it doesn't have morning sickness, well, the older trucks vented the AC system on high pressure...

Much as I hate to suggest it: a obsolete conversion to a spring thermal fan clutch may be your most frugal solution. Before replacing an ECM, tracking wires and sensors down, trying to get a new ECM flash... To help the AC: Strap an electric fan on the AC condenser that comes on with the AC compressor clutch and call it a day.

 

[Oil Stain]

The trans the always read lower than ECT.

I also agree that something in ECM is corrupt. I found a recall N40 that is a flash to correct emissions. Never had that done so maybe that could be my reflash to correct my issue. I live in Florida, no emissions here, so I hoping to find a dealer that will work with me.

As far as I'm concerned I have a rare truck. I deleted at only 1500 miles when I bought it new. This engine is super clean inside, unlike others who deleted when warranty was up.

My truck has been well taken care of and maintenance has been done at half the recommended intervals like for example if the call for a 60k fluid change, I did it at 30k and so forth.

I hope I will get this resolved some how. Even if I have to replace the ECM, found a couple of online places that rebuild them to correct common issues that they have.

I also am dealing with a lot of pain in my lower back right now.

When I get home I'm going to load my first tuner, the Mini Maxx tuner of which I never had and issue and see what happens, before I have the dealer reflash.

I will update everything I will doing so maybe it would help someone else. If anyone else has something to share, please do!

I want to put out a big thank you to Tuesdak and others for their helpful suggestions and insight.

 

[Topzide]

The problem you might come across with deleted truck, the emissions is a Federal emission standard. Even though the states might not have diesel emissions, our trucks were built with a Federal standard. It's a can of worms on both sides of the debate but a dealer might not want to touch your truck due to them having to answer why they worked on a deleted truck. You may be better off trying to find a way to get ECM flashed from non dealer source. That would be the better option to try software first versus new ECM! Do you have anyone with WiTech to read truck? Might give you more in depth insight on issues. Good luck on the hunt to find the gremlins!

 

[Oil Stain]

Now back to my fan clutch issue. Using the Alpha OBD app, I found that in the "Car Config" section and parameter "Radiator Fan Type" was set to No. One of the choices was "PWM 10hz", I selected that. In doing so I got a code P0693-Cooling Fan 2 Relay Control Circuit Low. But the MIL did not light up. Only using the Alpha app did I see this.

Can anyone else that has the Alpha app check to see what their setting is? Thinking of you Topzide!

After a few days of test driving the fan still goes crazy, but seems to settle down after a bit. It's like 2 steps forward one step back thing. In some respects it's better. But I'm still investigating.

On the MAP/TEMP sensor, after testing the wires with a meter I found no issue and the temps still read over 200 degrees.

For a test, I cut the TEMP sensor wire on the connector and wired in a 2.2k resistor which brought down the reading to about 10-15 degrees above ambient temp. Much better then 125-200 degree over ambient. Also checked A/C pressure using my manifold gauges. System showed 38 low and 260 high and outside was 91 degrees.

Right now I'm thing possible bad TIPM or a bad fan clutch.

 

[AH64ID]

Did you drive it with the resistor installed?

 

[Oil Stain]

Did you drive it with the resistor installed?

Yes and still am at this point. It seems to be reading correctly. The temps get higher as you get on it and then lower.

 

[AH64ID]

Yes and still am at this point. It seems to be reading correctly. The temps get higher as you get on it and then lower.

What effect did that have on the fan.

 

[Topzide]

Can anyone else that has the Alpha app check to see what their setting is? Thinking of you Topzide!

Sorry that I'm not going to be able to help you on this one. No such parameter on the 2014. I can do a test in the engine module but nothing in car config section. Will need to have someone with a 2012 and AlfaOBD for that one. Good luck. Glad you were able to find the files and how to save them. AlfaOBD was worth every penny paid!

 

[Oil Stain]

What effect did that have on the fan.

Not as much as I thought it should. That's why now I'm thinking TIPM or Fan clutch.

 

[Oil Stain]

Sorry that I'm not going to be able to help you on this one. No such parameter on the 2014. I can do a test in the engine module but nothing in car config section. Will need to have someone with a 2012 and AlfaOBD for that one. Good luck. Glad you were able to find the files and how to save them. AlfaOBD was worth every penny paid!

Not a problem, you've been a great help!!!

 

[Oil Stain]

Went back and looked at what the other choices were for the "Radiator Fan Type". I selected the PWM 10hz. The other choices are Not Programmed, which what was in there, before I changed anything, then Drop Resistor, Series Parallel and Single Speed. I'm going to try Drop Resistor and Series Parallel to see what happens.

Does anyone know what Drop Resistor and Series Parallel are for in regards to type of fan we have?

 

[Oil Stain]

I Googled Drop Resistor and Series Parallel fan types. We definitely don't have those. They are electric fan types.

 

[Oil Stain]

IT'S FINALLY FIXED!!!!
Replaced the fan clutch again. I ordered from Geno's. This is my second time replacing the fan clutch and both times the part ended in AB or 2nd gen.
So between the new fan clutch and finding that setting in the Alpha OBD app which said that my "Radiator Fan Type" was set to "No Type" and changed to "PWM 10hz" took care of everything. My guess having that setting to "No Type" my have taken a toll on the first replacement. The first replacement was 2 yrs old.

Thank you all for your help and guidance!

 

[cricha]

Now back to my fan clutch issue. Using the Alpha OBD app, I found that in the "Car Config" section and parameter "Radiator Fan Type" was set to No. One of the choices was "PWM 10hz", I selected that. In doing so I got a code P0693-Cooling Fan 2 Relay Control Circuit Low. But the MIL did not light up. Only using the Alpha app did I see this.

Where did you find the "Car Config" in the app? I cant find this, and would like to see how mine is set.

 

[Oil Stain]

Where did you find the "Car Config" in the app? I cant find this, and would like to see how mine is set.

SO sorry, I can't find it either. I forgot how I got there. Been looking for it now. Need more coffee! LOL.

 

[Oil Stain]

Get to "Body Computer", then "Select Control Unit", then select your truck year, then "Connect", on bottom right of screen tap the picture with the car hood open. Scroll all the way down, it's the very last item "Car Configuration Change", then scroll to find what you want.