AISIN leaking

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Dorman bed side outer mounding ?

Doom and gloom ?..

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Not sure how there can be a sensor on the torque converter. I am only repeating what he said that there is only one temp sensor and it’s on the valve body.

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It’s tq converter outlet temp. That just tells me it’s downstream of the converter and pre-cooler. It could also be in the valve body depending on how fluid routes.

Needless to say I would be very shocked if there wasn’t a sensor with all the data that points to one.
 
I am no expert but it sure didn’t fail for no reason. As I mentioned he put it together and separated a few times to get it to where it felt ok.

Thanks for chiming in on this.

Would you be comfortable with a reman or should I insist on new since this is clearly a result of the multiple assemblies.

I would have no reservations with a reman, and I believe it carries a 3/36 warranty where the new will have remainder of powertrain or 12/12 whichever is better. Also MaxCare would cover to it's limits after powertrain and 12/12 is gone.
 
It’s tq converter outlet temp. That just tells me it’s downstream of the converter and pre-cooler. It could also be in the valve body depending on how fluid routes.

Needless to say I would be very shocked if there wasn’t a sensor with all the data that points to one.

You are correct, there are two sensors. One is the sump temp located on the upper side of the valve body, and the second is TC outlet temp sensor. It is located on the passenger side of the transmission on the rearmost cooler outlet fitting. When the TC outlet temp goes over 284° F the transmission goes into high temp shift strategy and locks the converter over 1200 RPM.
 
Couple things. I can only see one of the alignment pins on the engine adapter, the one on the left is covered up. Make sure the one on the left is still on the adapter and not stuck in the transmission case.
There are no new transmissions available anywhere unless the one they showed in NJ was ordered for you. Plenty of remans available. Interesting the new transmission is $9k, the reman is $8k. TC is only $2k!. Good thing they don't break very often.
I'm about 80% sure your guy broke it without seeing all the pieces, so if they hassle you your dealer should step up. I highly doubt this failure is the fault of the manufacturer.
 
Notice that the SM says the transmission must be upright to check the end play, so if he did it in the truck the thrust washer more than likely dropped.
  1. Socket, End Play 8266-22 and snug the set screw. Install Handle 8266-8 onto the socket and tighten screw.
  2. C-3339A
  3. With the transmission in a vertical position, measure and record the output shaft end-play. The output shaft end-play clearance is 0.50-0.90 mm (0.019-0.035 in.). Assemble and disassemble as necessary to achieve the correct output shaft end-play clearance.
    2WD and 4WD EXTENSION HOUSING INTERNAL SELECTABLE END-PLAY WASHERS
    • I = 1.00mm (0.039 in.)
    • J = 1.20 mm (0.047 in.)
    • K = 1.40 mm (0.055 in.)
    • L = 1.60 mm (0.063 in.)
    • M = 1.80 mm (0.071 in.)
    • N = 2.00 mm (0.079 in.)
  4. Remove the Dial Indicator (2) set up.
 
WOW, lots of great info, thank you all! I will pass along to the mechanic as I know he is a do it right type of guy.

on the sensors that makes total sense. I was having a hard time understanding a sensor on the torque converter.

The Mechanic said Chrysler would still pay if they determined he was at fault.

Sucks I am not in warmer weather because of this but I have to say it’s been interesting.
 
Something else the connection with the round plastic retainers holding the lines to the trans one got so hot it melted.

The engine rear main seal looks great so no need to change.

@sag2 With the torque converter being hot enough to turn metal color (let alone melt things) would you recommend changing the engine rear main seal anyway due to excessive heat exposure?

Anything else near the trans cooling lines that needs inspection from melting/high temps?

@Cummins12V98 Was there any oil on the tailgate or front of the RV? When things start slipping an an auto trans it doesn't take long for it to get real hot. I have seen some burnt up autos where most of the auto trans oil left as a vapor through the trans vent. (And then condensed on the hatch/tailgate/etc back of vehicle.) IMO this is a likely reason why the oil level was low.
 
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It was a touch over full when I checked it as it was HOT. When he checked it was low but not WAY low. I will look under the truck next visit but as seen in the pics the trans looks dry on the outside. No oil on front of RV.

I asked that specific question about the heat transferring to the crank but the mechanic said he doubted the seal was effected as the seal is made of Teflon?

Yes I would like to hear his opinion also.
 
Playing inspector Clouseau as the warranty people want proof of filter and ATF. So far found the Mopar filter and MOPAR ATF but need to have my Son contact AMZ/OIL for receipt of the ATF I purchased thru him.
 
Playing inspector Clouseau as the warranty people want proof of filter and ATF. So far found the Mopar filter and MOPAR ATF but need to have my Son contact AMZ/OIL for receipt of the ATF I purchased thru him.

Wouldn't the Transmission had FCA fluid and filter after the first service they did before the melt down????
 
All he did was drain pan and refill when he buttoned it up.

Bottom line they need proof that I bought what is needed to do the 30 and 60k services. Just need the AMZ/OIL receipt.
 
Wonder if they "need" these records or its a stall tactic of sorts on the paper pusher side.

Anyone actually read the warranty, I would have to dig mine out as they are pretty hard to find online at times, especially since they could vary quite a bit at times for how it's exactly listed?

I'm sure you will easily get it for them, but I think it's pretty clear what happened here without the extra run around.

Feel bad for the tech seems like he is a hard worker, if I break stuff I have to fix it, glad they are giving him a shot to make it better. It's not easy to know all this stuff and all the little tricks.
 
The service guy just shakes his head. He said they have a list that all the boxes need to be checked. Thankfully I bought everything off AMAZON so I can prove my purchases. Just need AMZ/OIL to look a bit further than my Son can.

I guess this is a wake up for us all to keep good records not just notes of service.

I really feel bad for the Tech as he really is a good honest person. His pride is hurt you can tell.
 
I guess I will be the first one! But I am sure that won’t be the case because the Dealer knows I have no fault in this.

But maybe me doing a 30 and 45k pan drain with MOPAR fluid will cancel out that SCAMZ/OIL stuff.
 
He better get an 8 oz sample to send to AMSOIL per their warranty below. It may take awhile, but, it can be gotten from the converter if necessary.

Also hope the AMAZON filter isn't a knock-off.

https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/warranty/amsoil-warranty-lubricants.pdf

Too late for that since they drained the pan for the repair and filled with MOPAR fluid.

Filter was the real deal as it said Denso on it.

Tomorrow will be a full week since it was towed to the Dealer. Hoping it’s approved so the waiting game can start on getting the trans.
 
Too late for that since they drained the pan for the repair and filled with MOPAR fluid.

No it's not too late. I would get a sample from the TC as those are near impossible to drain out. It would be a mix anyway from the changes and what's left in the TC. Of course this is if and only if they take issue with AMSOIL being used. Just looking to make sure you have all bases covered and hope it's not an issue/problem from 'Chrysler'.
 
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