'05 Budget Engine Rebuild

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Supposedly this was a drop-in turbo replacement (upgrade). But there is no provision for the solenoid. Tried calling the vendor but no response yet. It's an MDC turbo based on an S300.66/73/14cm

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

So tech support just talked to me. I'm supposed to remove the solenoid from the old Holset turbo and just connect it to the wiring harness, then zip tie it up. I guess S300s don't run the solenoid (at least the one I purchased).
Then, after I get my Smarty S06, I'm supposed to code an aftermarket turbo into the tune.
In the mean time I should be able to run the engine.
Wish it would've stated that somewhere...not on website or in the box. IDK, maybe it's so common knowledge, but I'm a novice and I didn't have a clue about it.

 

[bigceltic]

Supposedly this was a drop-in turbo replacement (upgrade). But there is no provision for the solenoid. Tried calling the vendor but no response yet. It's an MDC turbo based on an S300.66/73/14cm

Your new turbo may not have come with one (solenoid) and you need to pull the old one off you old turbo. When I got my new upgraded turbo from Turbo Re-Source, it did not come with a "turbo control valve" - which is the wastegate controller/solenoid I think - and the shop had to use the one off the turbo I was replacing. Not sure if this is your issue....

So tech support just talked to me. I'm supposed to remove the solenoid from the old Holset turbo and just connect it to the wiring harness, then zip tie it up. I guess S300s don't run the solenoid (at least the one I purchased).
Then, after I get my Smarty S06, I'm supposed to code an aftermarket turbo into the tune.
In the mean time I should be able to run the engine.
Wish it would've stated that somewhere...not on website or in the box. IDK, maybe it's so common knowledge, but I'm a novice and I didn't have a clue about it.

Interesting. I am in the process of acquiring a DPS Stocker over S475 kit and it does not use the stock solenoid either. Instructions say:
For 2004.5-2007 Trucks Only: The wastegate is electronically controlled. Simply unscrew the entire sensor from the factory turbo and zip tie it onto the shock mount. Leave it plugged into the wiring harness. Screw the provided wastegate plug into the hole.

So similar to your aftermarket turbo. The DPS uses a mechanical wastegate I believe.

 

[Ozymandias]

I lost track along the way....
Do you plan to make big power with this truck or what was the reason for that upgrade?

Because I just replaced my worn out Turbo with a new stock unit that Genos had in stock.
I run a Smarty JR on performance and do not think that this brings the Turbo to its limits.

Did I mention that I like to keep my truck as close to stock as possible as it makes repairs easier down the road?

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

I lost track along the way....
Do you plan to make big power with this truck or what was the reason for that upgrade?

Because I just replaced my worn out Turbo with a new stock unit that Genos had in stock.
I run a Smarty JR on performance and do not think that this brings the Turbo to its limits.

Did I mention that I like to keep my truck as close to stock as possible as it makes repairs easier down the road?

I'm setting up the truck for towing an 8 ton 5th wheel. My plan was to make a little more power, but with lower EGTs, while giving a nod to a budget. Slightly more mid-range torque was also a goal.
I'm not trying to drag race this thing or put it on a dyno. I just need to be able to pull a decent load in mostly hot climate.

 

[BigPapa]

Hard to beat the OE HE351CW.

 

[Ozymandias]

I'd would have stayed stock then.
This Turbo is more then capable to deliver what you demand. Off of 1700rpm you have full boost all the way up to the red line - what else could I wish for then that.

 

[CVR222NV]

I'm like Ozy and have tried to keep my truck as stock as possible but upgrading within the limits of the OEM components. I upgraded my OEM HE351CW through Turbo Lab as follows:

· Turbine housing and wheel: 67 mm x 76 mm

· Billet Compressor wheel: 62.45 x 86 x 90 mm

Turbo Lab has one step up on the compressor wheel to 67mm as well but I wanted to keep as much low end as I could. So far very happy with the results.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

So I fired the engine up. Only thing I could get it to do was barely idle. I get a couple codes:
P0107- MAP low input
P0073- Ambient Air Temp Sensor Circuit Hi input
P2509- ECM/PCM Power Input Signal Intermittent

Truck will idle at around 750-800 RPM. Smokes like crazy and barely has enough power to pull back out of the garage. Ive checked connections and ECM and MAP are connected. I did find a wire I thought was the ECM ground (picture to follow), but I ran a continuity check between the pictured wire and ground...no continuity.

Anybody know where this wire goes and what checks I should be running on those fault codes?

 

[Ozymandias]

So I fired the engine up. Only thing I could get it to do was barely idle. I get a couple codes:
P0107- MAP low input
P0073- Ambient Air Temp Sensor Circuit Hi input
P2509- ECM/PCM Power Input Signal Intermittent

Anybody know where this wire goes and what checks I should be running on those fault codes?View attachment 135322

First two you can ignore, they set when you switch on ignition without the sensor connected, the one that sits in the air filter neck. They go away by them selves or you clear them.

 

[Ozymandias]

The grounds are to the right if the ECM, the single one connects to the bolt BELOW the upper right ECM fastener.

And the one with two wires goes to a ground bolt behind and below the fuel filter canister where alo another ground ist connected.

 

[Ozymandias]

There is no need for continuity as not every ground is connected to each other.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

There is no need for continuity as not every ground is connected to each other.

Thanks Ozman.

 

[Ozymandias]

Any progress here in the last two years?