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Need a Part # for Mopar PREMIUM brake pads

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parking brake cable question

What is this plastic part? Or is is rubber

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Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah ......

Sounds like someone that fell for the hype... :p:rolleyes:

bottom line: if slotted and/or cross drilled rotors make a noticeable improvement in your braking performance while towing then you're doing it wrong.
 
NASCAR tracks are full of cars that "fell for the hype"

Th

lol... yep apple to apples, oye.

Nascar is a perfect example of where slotted rotors would be beneficial. If you tow like that then you're doing it wrong, get it yet??
 
No, I do not get it yet, explain it to me. Slotted rotors provide better braking performance for several reasons, improving safety. Period.

Only when the brakes are used at a duty cycle that creates excess heat and off gassing. That’s not a normal thing for street driven rigs, even those that tow heavy. When the rotors/pads aren’t at elevated temps you lose braking performance due to a lower surface area for the pads to contact the rotors. So they are not safer for normal driving/towing.

Slotted rotors are great for applications like track racing, but not for every day driving.. to include heavy towing.

People don’t realize that and fall into the hype, only to lose performance for more money.

On top of all that your ABS system is programmed for the friction of OEM pads/rotors so any modifications will affect the performance, safety, of your ABS system.
 
My buddy put them on his Tundra, he's gone thru pads faster then with solid rotors! If you're not on the brake pedal causing pad dragging, then slotted rotors aren't a benefit, just extra cost. But if you want to put them on, your truck! I can't recall seeing slotted rotors on big rigs and that's were you'd think you'd see them! I prefer to spend the extra $ on jewelry for the truck!
 
Slotted rotors are great for applications like track racing, but not for every day driving.. to include heavy towing.

You are not convincing me. You are correct that slotted rotors are not needed in normal conditions. But, when the gray haired lady pulls out in front of you in her 1985 Buick, I want all the advantages I can get. Loads of information available on the benefits of slotted rotors that contradict your assumptions. Here is an example; https://tundraheadquarters.com/slotted-drilled-rotors-truck-towing-worthwhile/

To summarize, the article echoes what I said to the original question on slotted rotors. "If you rarely tow or haul, the factory rotors are more than adequate. It’s official – after-market brake rotors are for heavy-duty users."

We all buy and install modifications that make our trucks stronger, safer, and more durable. Brakes are no different.

 
Cool slotted rotors will simply not have the stopping power of solid ones in your example, period.

The slots don’t improve braking power, they decrease brake fade on hot rotors. Emergency braking like you mentioned is still not enough to get the rotors hot enough to see the improvements from them, so the lower surface area is still the prevailing difference.

Since you’re not convinced, what do you think the slots do to improve braking?

We do make changes to try and improve the trucks. Some changes are more hype than beneficial, but many people love hype and marketing over facts.
 
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For better braking while towing with these trucks, I’d recommend an exhaust brake over slotted rotors anytime.

Does the EB activate the trailer brakes to keep it in alignment with the tow vehicle?

EB is for when the tow vehicle is outmatched by load and grade.

Braking the TV without commensurate strategy for trailer brakes sets up a bad situation.

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Since you’re not convinced, what do you think the slots do to improve braking?

I do not think it, here are the facts:
1. The slots in the disk surface “clean” the pad in the braking phase, regenerating the friction material, removing debris or glaze. Downside, pads may not last as long.
2. The slots disrupt the layer of water on the disk when driving in the rain. The layer of water is what makes "wet" braking so ineffective.
3. The slots guarantee dissipation of the gases (fading effect) during extreme braking

Your assumption that cold rotors will not result in fading during hard braking is wrong. The affected area is the pad to disk interface. The thin area of the pad has to convert the kinetic energy of the vehicle to thermal energy via friction. Deceleration is a squared function of time. So if you half the time, the thermal energy that is generated is increased by four times (not exactly but close.) During hard braking on cold rotors this thin interface can overheat and gas. The extra area on the disk from eliminating the slots is useless if there is gassing and the pads lose contact with the disk.

By the way, the pads do not ride directly on the metal of the rotors after the brakes are bedded in. The pads actually work with the thin layer of pad that is deposited on the disk. That is why new brakes should be bed in by using the bedding process.

Like I said, if one rarely tows or hauls heavy loads, the factory rotors are more than adequate. I stand by that. When I retired and rarely tow heavy loads, I put flat rotors on my truck when I could not find quality slotted rotors. I have noticed the difference a few times, mostly in the rain. I do still have slotted rotors on my 1969 Nova drag car and my 1974 Laguna S-3, a heavy, fast car, with a 5 speed and a 540.
 
The OEM front and rear pads are no longer available. But, there are nine front and seven rear sets showing in stock at dealers. Not a great chance that they are actually there, but if someone really wanted the OEM pad they could make a few phone calls and try and hunt them down. FYI, the OEM fronts are now $297 if you find one of the nine sets.
 
The OEM front and rear pads are no longer available. But, there are nine front and seven rear sets showing in stock at dealers. Not a great chance that they are actually there, but if someone really wanted the OEM pad they could make a few phone calls and try and hunt them down. FYI, the OEM fronts are now $297 if you find one of the nine sets.

Wow, expensive.
 
^^^ Yikes ...that is way too expen$$$ive for just one axle ...I used to pay $130 per axle for the Mopar Premium front pads. Of course I DID get 110k miles on them.

That said, I got home and the Bosch Quiet Cast rotors were waiting for me outside.

They are REALLY nice looking and of course heavy...with some sort of coating to keep them from rusting before install and likely to also slow rust on the non used surfaces....which is nice, cause the boxes were completely soaked from the rains and the rotors still look great.

The pads certainly look fine, though obviously looks have nothing to do with a brake pad...like I said, I went with them simply hoping that Bosch did a good job engineering the pad material to work well with their rotors. The Bosch pads were only $45 for the full axle including new hardware and some silicone grease, so as long as they work quietly wit minimal dusting and good stopping, that price really cannot be beat.

Got to catch up on some ranch chores and shop work, but will definitely post pics on the install.
 
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Phew...FINALLY had time to get the rear brakes done this weekend.

Took about 10 hours total working time but that includes replacement of the rotors and pads, caliper mainatenmnce as well as replacement and adjustment of the parking brake shoes, as well as 1 or 2 mistakes. ;)

There are DEFINITELY some important details to tell you guys about, so as I have time I'll start a new thread with a write up and pics.

In the meantime, here are some pics of the rotors and pads I used, part numbers listed above

IMG_4242.JPG


IMG_4244.JPG


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And here is the parking brake shoe kit that I used because I already had it laying around, having been giben it by another member some years ago.

That said, and NOT that it matters, Bosch ALSO makes parking brake shoes for our trucks == Bosch #BS771

NOTE -- My kit, and the Bosch kit, do NOT include ANY hardware with it... which was fine since I live in a moderate climate with no salted roads and all of my oem hardwrae was easily reused.

However rockauto sells parking brake hardware kits, as well as other parking brake parts, for our trucks, as needed.

IMG_4247.JPG


IMG_4248.JPG
 
Phew...FINALLY had time to get the rear brakes done this weekend.

Took about 10 hours total working time but that includes replacement of the rotors and pads, caliper mainatenmnce as well as replacement and adjustment of the parking brake shoes, as well as 1 or 2 mistakes. ;)

There are DEFINITELY some important details to tell you guys about, so as I have time I'll start a new thread with a write up and pics.

In the meantime, here are some pics of the rotors and pads I used, part numbers listed above

View attachment 136223

View attachment 136224

View attachment 136225
Not a Ram but I put Bosch Quiet cast rotors and their pads on our 2005 Honda Pilot. At about 10K the brakes started pulsating. The pads apparently had caused premature vibration. I had them machined on the Honda and replaced the Bosch pads with Honda OEM's. 40K later the rotors are fine and the pads are 1/2 worn. I have the Powerslot combo on the Ram and there is a seat of the pants improvement over stock. Whether it was the rotors and pads or just the pads i can't say. How long they'll last again I can't say. I put less than 10K a year on the truck so it will be awhile. My stock pads were 1/2 worn and my OEM rotors were perfect and lie in state in the shed.
 
Did pads and rotors on the wife’s 03 4Runner today. She’s complained about an intermittent shaking, but I haven’t been able to replicate it. She wanted them replaced, thou it really wasn’t time.

223K miles on the stock rotors and they likely would go for quite a bit longer. I don’t recall the last time I changed the pads, but today was the 3rd time in 223K miles I’ve changed them. They had 30% of their materiel remaining.

I went with a OE style solid rotor and pad. They feel pretty good after the initial bedding. I’m enticed to see how they feel coming off the local ski hill.
 
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