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Engine code P2459 regen frequency to often

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Cruise control intermittent

2011 fuel tank replacement

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They have already replaced that sensor on my truck. They thought maybe there was a bad wire in the harness, so they wired it directly from the PCM to the differential sensor to no avail.

There are two sensors that determine backpressure, have they replaced both? And bypassed wiring on both?
 
I took the truck in for an oil change and a few days after that is when the first check engine light came on.
Anyway the wrong oil could cause some issue? Not blaming the oil tech, but they missed the air box deal, maybe there is something related to that event.

Or yeah it's just super bad luck here.


What software does your 8.4 have?
Not to derail the post will toss it in my other thread.
 
There are two sensors that determine backpressure, have they replaced both? And bypassed wiring on both?
Yes, all the sensors were replaced as well as the particulates filter. I can't say if they bypassed the wiring on both of them, but if they did one, why wouldn't the other? But that is second guessing and I am trying to avoid the word assume here.
 
Anyway the wrong oil could cause some issue? Not blaming the oil tech, but they missed the air box deal, maybe there is something related to that event.

Or yeah it's just super bad luck here.



Not to derail the post will toss it in my other thread.
You know, you might have something there. The oil tech was reprimanded for getting the inside of someone's vehicle dirty right before he did or truck. Then he also got the inside of our vehicle dirty. They ended up letting him go. What would happen if they put the old standby of 15w-40 oil in it rather than what it is supposed to have?
 
You know, you might have something there. The oil tech was reprimanded for getting the inside of someone's vehicle dirty right before he did or truck. Then he also got the inside of our vehicle dirty. They ended up letting him go. What would happen if they put the old standby of 15w-40 oil in it rather than what it is supposed to have?

15w-40 would have a pontential impact on the hydraulic lifters and not the DPF. 15w-40 isn’t an issue for 07.5-18 trucks with DPFs, it’s actually the recommended oil for them.

What could be an issue with the DPF is the ash content of the oil. Doubtful the dealership still has CI-4 diesel oil, so the only wrong oil they could put in that would potentially affect the DPF is gas oil, which would also be bad for the motor.
 
15w-40 would have a pontential impact on the hydraulic lifters and not the DPF. 15w-40 isn’t an issue for 07.5-18 trucks with DPFs, it’s actually the recommended oil for them.

What could be an issue with the DPF is the ash content of the oil. Doubtful the dealership still has CI-4 diesel oil, so the only wrong oil they could put in that would potentially affect the DPF is gas oil, which would also be bad for the motor.
According to the dealership, and I don't know when they started this, but they say this engine takes 5w-30 full synthetic (i have a 2022) which is why I worded it the way I did. I have 5000 miles on that oil change, what kind of problems would the motor have if it has had the wrong oil in it this long?
 
I doubt your issue is as a result of wrong lube oil. You haven’t driven long enough on that oil. The 5-30 weight oil is really for fuel economy not for emission system protection. Your DPF and SRC are basically the same as the earlier models not much changed there. The newer engines if I recall have a roller cam lifter the older ones flat tappet. Flat tappet requires zinc to protect against failure. The roller will not be effected by the zinc. The EPA wants the zinc removed from the oil so it doesn’t shorten the life of the SRC. They are concerned with it lasting 100,000 + miles. Driving 5000 with the wrong oil is not going to effect it that much. And it’s not going to plug your DPF unless you are burning gallons of lube….
 
I doubt your issue is as a result of wrong lube oil. You haven’t driven long enough on that oil. The 5-30 weight oil is really for fuel economy not for emission system protection. Your DPF and SRC are basically the same as the earlier models not much changed there. The newer engines if I recall have a roller cam lifter the older ones flat tappet. Flat tappet requires zinc to protect against failure. The roller will not be effected by the zinc. The EPA wants the zinc removed from the oil so it doesn’t shorten the life of the SRC. They are concerned with it lasting 100,000 + miles. Driving 5000 with the wrong oil is not going to effect it that much. And it’s not going to plug your DPF unless you are burning gallons of lube….
Thanks for that info, sooner or later something is going to crop its ugly head up and we will find out what is happening with this truck. In the meantime I get to spend more money on diesel fuel for every time that thing regens and keeps my fuel mileage down to around 13 to 14 miles per gallon.
 
According to the dealership, and I don't know when they started this, but they say this engine takes 5w-30 full synthetic (i have a 2022) which is why I worded it the way I did. I have 5000 miles on that oil change, what kind of problems would the motor have if it has had the wrong oil in it this long?

5w-30 is not the recommended oil, I would check your receipt.

The only two grades the dealership should be putting in are 10w-30 or 5w-40.

AFIK they don’t have a reason to even stock 5w-30 diesel oil, as the eco diesel uses 5w-40.

While there are some 5w-30 diesel oils that is more commonly a gas oil weight.
 
5w-30 is not the recommended oil, I would check your receipt.

The only two grades the dealership should be putting in are 10w-30 or 5w-40.

AFIK they don’t have a reason to even stock 5w-30 diesel oil, as the eco diesel uses 5w-40.

While there are some 5w-30 diesel oils that is more commonly a gas oil weight.
I checked the RO, had to google the number but it shows to be 5w-40
 
@Robert G Bradstreet any update on this issue?
There are updates but no answers. The forum that Chrysler/Stellantis mechanics are on showed where 2 other trucks that were doing virtually the same thing as mine, showed where the mechanics had replaced all the injectors in the engine and it had been over 6 months since they had heard anything from them. So it was believed it might work on my truck. The engineers when working on the truck had cut into 2 wiring harnesses, (the one from the PCM, and one from the exhaust), so they replaced thoseand the 6 injectors at $2600.00 a piece (not out of my pocket) and low and behold the check engine light is back on again. I did talk to another person on another forum that changed out the air intake tube on the turbo and plugged in a cts3 tuner and it took care of his problem. He didn't delete it but he did say that the original intake tube is baffled on the original equipment and this allows more air in. Thanks for asking, it is an ongoing issue. Also when I'm towing 40 foot 5th wheel at 70 MPH it runs pretty close to what it should.
 
There is no more air in as it isn't natural aspirated engine - the Turbo gets and takes the air it needs to get the boost up to spec and the factory air intake has more flow then this engine will ever need with factory tune.
There is NO benefit from messing with the air intake is system. This isn't the eighties.

Same as changing injectors... bo, if an injector, ore more, would be so much off that you make a quart every 300 miles you can be assured that the Emissions system would sound all dings and light the dash like a christmas tree.

There are two points from my view to make oil - that one ore more of the connector tubes isn't correctly assembled/torqued as this would leak into the oil galley.
Or that the CP3 leaks out the front into the gear housing.
These are the only two points where oil and diesel have at least a chance to mix.
 
There are updates but no answers. The forum that Chrysler/Stellantis mechanics are on showed where 2 other trucks that were doing virtually the same thing as mine, showed where the mechanics had replaced all the injectors in the engine and it had been over 6 months since they had heard anything from them. So it was believed it might work on my truck. The engineers when working on the truck had cut into 2 wiring harnesses, (the one from the PCM, and one from the exhaust), so they replaced thoseand the 6 injectors at $2600.00 a piece (not out of my pocket) and low and behold the check engine light is back on again. I did talk to another person on another forum that changed out the air intake tube on the turbo and plugged in a cts3 tuner and it took care of his problem. He didn't delete it but he did say that the original intake tube is baffled on the original equipment and this allows more air in. Thanks for asking, it is an ongoing issue. Also when I'm towing 40 foot 5th wheel at 70 MPH it runs pretty close to what it should.

Yeah I've just been randomly keeping an eye on mine, just because.
 
There is no more air in as it isn't natural aspirated engine - the Turbo gets and takes the air it needs to get the boost up to spec and the factory air intake has more flow then this engine will ever need with factory tune.
There is NO benefit from messing with the air intake is system. This isn't the eighties.

Same as changing injectors... bo, if an injector, ore more, would be so much off that you make a quart every 300 miles you can be assured that the Emissions system would sound all dings and light the dash like a christmas tree.

There are two points from my view to make oil - that one ore more of the connector tubes isn't correctly assembled/torqued as this would leak into the oil galley.
Or that the CP3 leaks out the front into the gear housing.
These are the only two points where oil and diesel have at least a chance to mix.
The connector tubes are in a rifle that only returns fuel to the tank. There is no way to mix oil and fuel from a leaky connector tube to injector connection.
 
The connector tubes are in a rifle that only returns fuel to the tank. There is no way to mix oil and fuel from a leaky connector tube to injector connection.

How about a damaged O-ring at the injector body itself on the return side, separating oil and fuel?
I don't think that these Rings will withstand the rail pressure that a leaking connector tube can make.
 
I really appreciate all the feed back I get from this forum as I do take the suggestions in for the dealer to consider. fact is that with this truck the only time that it seems to operate correctly is under a load (approx 15,000 lbs), tow/haul mode on, and exhaust break on, and at 70 plus miles per hour. Anything other than that and its regen frequency is to often and turns on the check engine light and no one knows how to fix it.
 
How about a damaged O-ring at the injector body itself on the return side, separating oil and fuel?
I don't think that these Rings will withstand the rail pressure that a leaking connector tube can make.
There is virtually no pressure in the return line so in order for fuel to leak past the upper O'Ring the rifle would have to be completely full and have enough pressure to push it up the injector body and into the crankcase. With a normal 100 ml per minute return that chances of this happening would be very small. If it was happening in any volume, it could be easily checked by running with the valve cover off and watching for fuel dilution around the injector.
 
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