Grid heater relay and killer grid heater bolt revisited

[Signal73]

I wonder if it was a mid year change. Is yours a late or early build?

 

[SSchang]

I got it 1/9/2020

 

[Diesel85]

My 2020 had a recall for the relay.

Don't hold me to this... but I believe it was 2019 thru 2023. It was when I was going to buy a 2500 with the CTD or the EcoD, I remember seeing this on a 2019 as well.

I think it was when they changed from solid lifters to the hydraulic style back in 2019 it had the fire prone relay.

 

[Turbo Terry]

My wife says I should trust the new relay and not disconnect the wire. Also to check the dreaded killer grid heater bolt and wire for looseness when ever I do my under the hood inspections etc often

 

[Signal73]

Don't hold me to this... but I believe it was 2019 thru 2023. It was when I was going to buy a 2500 with the CTD or the EcoD, I remember seeing this on a 2019 as well.

I think it was when they changed from solid lifters to the hydraulic style back in 2019 it had the fire prone relay.

My 2019 has the old style relay.

 

[Ozymandias]

My wife says I should trust the new relay and not disconnect the wire. Also to check the dreaded killer grid heater bolt and wire for looseness when ever I do my under the hood inspections etc often

Listen to your wife, she's wise.

 

[Turbo Terry]

She married me

 

[BigPapa]

She married me

Well, he said she was wise, not perfect….

 

[Turbo Terry]

Ok new twist to a old problem when the lift pumps couldn’t cut the mustard back in 1999 hanging on the side of a hot vibrating 5.9 monster and failed because they where push pumps and not pull pumps my good friend moved his to the frame by the tank. Later they came with the pump in the tank Duh So why isn’t someone making a better bolt /Bakelite connection for the dreaded killer grid bolt connection. Factory or after market . Seems to simple doesn’t it. But why not?

 

[AH64ID]

Sorry to start another thread on this. Did a search and read all that but my Indy that serviced my truck brought it up the other day so here goes. When I got the recall on the relay I disconnected the 10 m bolt to the relay so I could park in the garage. Now I have a new relay from the recall and it’s connected back up. So does the bad old replaced relay stick shut causing the grounding bolt to melt causing the killer grid bolt issue or I’m I missing something here. I really don’t need the grid heater here most time. Truck is started in warm garage. And is hot until it comes back. If it got -20 f and I had to leave it outside I would reconnect the grid heater and take a chance. I need some input on this. Thanks

Why is the new relay disconnected? If you look at photos of them it’s obvious why there was an issue, and that it’s fixed. I didn’t create the attached photo and it’s labeled wrong, only the 12V+ circuit is completed inside the relay. Despite the incorrect labeling the photo shows the potential issue on the older design with the plates being too close and a short starts the fire. Don’t overthink this, you live in a state where the grid heater is warranted. Leave it connected and forget about it.

The relay and the nut are two separate issues. When the relay starts a fire it’s at the relay itself. The nut has been a potential issue for the 6.7 since it was introduced, regardless of what relay powers the grid heater. Do the Geno’s wiggle test at each service and forget about it. Both issues are incredibly rare.

 

[Diesel85]

Why is the new relay disconnected? If you look at photos of them it’s obvious why there was an issue, and that it’s fixed. I didn’t create the attached photo and it’s labeled wrong, only the 12V+ circuit is completed inside the relay. Despite the incorrect labeling the photo shows the potential issue on the older design with the plates being too close and a short starts the fire. Don’t overthink this, you live in a state where the grid heater is warranted. Leave it connected and forget about it.

The relay and the nut are two separate issues. When the relay starts a fire it’s at the relay itself. The nut has been a potential issue for the 6.7 since it was introduced, regardless of what relay powers the grid heater. Do the Geno’s wiggle test at each service and forget about it. Both issues are incredibly rare.

View attachment 139036

You're right. How many folks have come on here (and other forums) screaming about their truck suddenly caught fire or the engine ingested a nut?

If you want some action, get one of those Gen 2 EcoDiesels where there is a 7-10% chance the bottom end could give out. lol

 

[Ozymandias]

Ozy when you get a 2007 or newer truck with these issues tell me that again I will listen to you until then I’m not sure

To me it looks like you are desperately looking for some problems to worry about on a truck that has no real problems.
I know, that was different in the past where the trucks were more like a DiY kit delivered from the factory, partly assembled, but these days are gone.
That's one reason why the trucks are so incredibly expensive nowadays.

 

[brillmtb1]

What years were covered for this recall. I have read about the loose bolt issue and coming off into cyl 6.

 

[AH64ID]

What years were covered for this recall. I have read about the loose bolt issue and coming off into cyl 6.

Gen 4.5 trucks. The early 4th gen trucks use a different style relay.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Stan Gozzi and I wrote a few things about this issue in the past several issues. I suggest making an indicator light setup, and if you go to the Black Market Performance air horn with the 57 amp heater, you can use a 60 or 70 amp maxi fuse at the passenger side battery like I did.

 

[AH64ID]

Stan Gozzi and I wrote a few things about this issue in the past several issues. I suggest making an indicator light setup, and if you go to the Black Market Performance air horn with the 57 amp heater, you can use a 60 or 70 amp maxi fuse at the passenger side battery like I did.

A 57 amp load should be fused with a 80 or 90 amp fuse.

I see a few articles on the grid heater nut, but not can't find much on the relay. Do you recall the specific issue where you discuss the faulty relays?

Also, in reading thru your write-up on the BMP air horn I see where you seemed surprised the grid heater stayed on after the truck started. That's 100% normal and is called the post-heat cycle. There is not WTS light because you're already running. The post heat cycle occurs when the intake manifold temp is below 66°F at startup. It didn't come back on with the restart because the intake had warmed up.

 

[sag2]

I have seen my heater cycle on a hot restart in mild weather a couple more times. It might have been in the 60's, but he intake should have been fairly warm from heat soak on the restart. I suppose unless you actually saw the intake air temp reading it is impossible to determine if it was supposed to come on, or was an anomaly.
Also, review issue 121, pages 104-105 for information on the relay for 2019+ trucks.

 

[AH64ID]

Also, review issue 121, pages 104-105 for information on the relay for 2019+ trucks.

Found it, thanks!!

 

[AMink]

It's been a while since I've been on the site. I got a Banks "commercial" on FB today talking about the nut/bolt coming off and getting ingested. I hadn't heard of that before. How common is it? Honestly, I loved working on my '97, liked working on my '06, but really haven't done much on the '18. It works fine the way it is and after I crawl around over and under I'm sore for a day! Is there a good video showing how to check the nut? Something that can be done in an afternoon?

 

[Topzide]

Just grab and wiggle the connection every once and a while. Nothing else other than that. If you're worried about it, add an led indicator light on dash so you will know if it's stuck on or not. There were a few recalls on bad relays on some of the newer trucks. Not many mentioned on here or would be a bigger thread about it! I check mine when under the hood, reach over and grab and wiggle.