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Control arm bushings 2005

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If my control arm bushings are worn, is it best to just replace the bushings, or to buy aftermarket control arms?
 
Buy factory arms if needed, they aren't that expensive.
But are they really worn? Light cracks on the rubber surface are no problem.
 
Buy factory arms if needed, they aren't that expensive.
But are they really worn? Light cracks on the rubber surface are no problem.
I just bought this truck. The previous owner took it through its annual Pennsylvania state inspection, which it passed, but they told him the bushings were worn and would need replaced soon. I don’t know which one, but I’ll ask him if he knows.

The truck needs a front end alignment, so I figure it’s better to do the bushings first. Previous owner just replaced the tie rod, so I’d guess the toe-in is off.

Only 191,000 miles, but it’s from Florida, so maybe the heat deteriorates the bushings.
 
My 2004 spent 17 years in Pennsylvania snow, ice and salt. The bottoms of my control arms rusted pretty bad.
My 03 has been through 20 years and 339,000 miles of Pennsylvania of snow and salt as well. They look pretty rusty, but I've never had problems with bushings no passing inspection. If I was replacing the ones on that truck, I think I would choose to just replace all four control arms with new ones.

My new 05 truck has no rust, so I think the bushings may be easier to change out.
 
My 03 has been through 20 years and 339,000 miles of Pennsylvania of snow and salt as well. They look pretty rusty, but I've never had problems with bushings no passing inspection. If I was replacing the ones on that truck, I think I would choose to just replace all four control arms with new ones.

My new 05 truck has no rust, so I think the bushings may be easier to change out.
New arms are dirt cheap. The big problem is the bolts get frozen in. Get all new hardware cause you are gonna use a sawzall.
 
You might want to consider to start to use Fluid Film right away on your rustfree Truck. Ore it will be rusty crusty by next year.
Definitely! As soon as we are out of the salt season, I will give it a really good washing underneath. Then, once we get into summer weather, it'll get washed thoroughly, dried and Fluid Filmed, or something similar. The 03 was 95% rust free after 20 years, so that's my plan for this one. I'm probably going to have the lower 8 or 10 inches of the cab, bed, doors, etc. Line-Xed as well. It really helped the 03. It's kind of expensive, but probably a good investment.
 
I'm just guessing but on a FL truck that was well kept the bolts might still come out just fine. Check ut before you spend a ton of money for these bolts that you maybe don't need.

And please post a picture of your arms and bushings that the DOT considered bad, I wanna see that because it's hard to imagine.
 
Geno's has these polyurethane control arm bushings for $168 https://www.genosgarage.com/product/es-53142g/control-arm-bushings

My worry is getting the thing halfway apart and finding that I can't get some of the bolts out. Then having a truck sitting around while I order parts. I'd like to have everything on hand so I can do this in a weekend.

I've seen many people having trouble getting the bolts out due to corrosion. Hopefully no corrosion in my case.

Can I partially remove each bolt one at a time to see if they come out ok without screwing up the alignment? I can mark them beforehand. If I know they come out ok, I'll just order the bushings and do them all.
 
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I'm just guessing but on a FL truck that was well kept the bolts might still come out just fine. Check ut before you spend a ton of money for these bolts that you maybe don't need.

And please post a picture of your arms and bushings that the DOT considered bad, I wanna see that because it's hard to imagine.
I'll try to get a picture, but I don't want to mess with pulling the wheel off today in the rain.

I texted the previous owner if he knew which ones were bad and he said he was told it was the passenger side, but to check them all. They said they had movement in them when they inspected it.
 
It says it doesn't fit, but I'll take your word for it. Do they sell a kit with all four?

No, they are sold individual.

But first check if it is really needed, I don't give a lot on these DOT checks. Sometimes they just want to find stuff for their records to proof activity.
 
Can I partially remove each bolt one at a time to see if they come out ok without screwing up the alignment? I can mark them beforehand. If I know they come out ok, I'll just order the bushings and do them all.

Yes you can, just remember the position of the adjuster and bring it back to the same position or close by. This setting isn't crazy important unlike the toe setting which must be spot on.
 
Yes you can, just remember the position of the adjuster and bring it back to the same position or close by. This setting isn't crazy important unlike the toe setting which must be spot on.

Thanks. I'm also going to check the toe-in. Maybe that's the only thing wrong? Since he put a new tie road on the truck, it's very likely that he didn't get the toe-in correct.

The steering wheel is off center too. Will adjusting the drag link bring it back to center?
 
Do you really have to pull the exhaust to get to the passenger side bolts?

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