Injectors

[SHobbs]

Without removing the injectors to have them tested would testing the resistance on each injector tell me if one or more is bad and need replaced? If so, what would be a good/ bad reading on them? 2004.5 year model

 

[Topzide]

That's only testing if the solenoid works, not the spray pattern, which is just as important!

 

[SHobbs]

I have just under 200k on the truck, at least if I knew something wasn't right with the solenoid replacing the injectors wouldn't be a total waste

 

[petersonj]

at least if I knew something wasn't right with the solenoid replacing the injectors wouldn't be a total waste

If the engine has a miss (not running smoothly), it would be worth testing the resistance of each injector coil, and the wiring harness as well. From my experience, the coil is either good or bad - so, if your engine is running smoothly, then the coils will pass the test.

- John

 

[Ozymandias]

With the proper equipment the injectors can be tested without touching anything but the OBD2 plug.
Cylinder contribution test tells you all you need to know.
Also single cylinder shut down gives information about the fueling.

Basic information to this, the test tells you the cylinder number matching the firing order - not the mechanical order within the motor.

 

[Tuesdak]

What problem are you chasing if any? Understandably injectors are a limited life item with a few variables like better filters that can make a difference.

I had my injectors tested at an injection shop during an engine rebuild as required for engine warranty. I had two later "fail" when re-tested less than 20K miles later due to an engine miss. One failed coil and another had a high return rate. All work was needed with less than 150K on the odometer. I dropped in a set of BBi's as shopping for injectors is a nightmare to find "Virgin new" as rebuilt is sold as new. Some re-use a crack prone body with everything else new and call it "new"....

In summery the testing tells you what they are doing now with very little guarantee they have any miles left in them.

 

[Grumpy8811]

I have just under 200k on the truck, at least if I knew something wasn't right with the solenoid replacing the injectors wouldn't be a total waste

electrically speaking, if there is a problem with injector coils or wiring, it should set a code, whereas a mechanical problem with an injector it will only show up with a cylinder cutout or cylinder performance test.

common rail can also be a problematic when testing injectors because the ECM is fairly good at compensating for a weak injector by altering the injection on the other cylinders.
I think that is why people tend to replace all the injectors as a set.

I also think alot of injectors get replaced needlessly Back when I was working on this stuff, darn things were pretty reliable and generally lasted the life of the engine until rebuild

 

[SHobbs]

Tuesdak, Right now the truck starts like it always has it just has a miss to it or stumble. Run it up to say 1200 rpm's it shakes and it sounds like huffing or something similar to a Huey, hard to describe. Relocating back to Texas I hauled about 6k pounds close to 800 miles it was perfect. The next day I started it and it definitely had a miss to it, I thought it may have been the a/c compressor or something on the front but none of that is causing it. I have yet to put my code reader on it, was busy checking out the front of the engine for anything going wrong. This on my 2004.5 dually, NV5600.

 

[Ozymandias]

First step is fresh fuel and a bottle of Power Service to it.

 

[Tuesdak]

Without hearing it ... consider the possibility of an injector leaking or stuck open that can melt a piston quickly. You may want to limit running it at all, esp. loaded, till you figure it out. For example towing to a shop may help if the damage isn't already done.

When cranking does it hit evenly or "ZING!" past a cylinder with low compression? The "Huffing" may be a bad valve. Pull the oil fill cap and see if it's huffing into the crankcase at idle that would be a burned piston etc.

Any smoke out the exhaust?

I had a miss you could feel through the shifter on my 2003 when the injector went out. Apparently when it warmed up it started working. But no unusual sounds. No codes either.

Wiring harness trouble to the injectors is possible and may not set a ECM code. You do need to check for codes just in case it's giving you a clue.

Do you have the tools to do a compression test? Otherwise you need a good diesel shop to run the OBD2 tests as @Ozymandias suggested. Then depending on what they are seeing a compression test.

 

[SHobbs]

No smoke, oil fill cap stays put on the valve cover when running, I have a code present P2509. The batteries did go down on it, had to jump it to get it here. Not sure how old they are and both are different brands. Anyone ever dealt with this one? From what I understand the common rail system needs a certain voltage to operate correctly. Guess I need to check the battery voltage and that the alternator is doing its job

 

[Tuesdak]

Load test batteries separately by removing a ground on one of them. Yes any ECM needs the proper voltage or it can't make a "0" into a "1" because the voltage isn't high enough. Than all kinds of bad things happen when things don't work.

 

[Ozymandias]

Two different batteries is calling for trouble, no matter what get new ones.

 

[SHobbs]

I'll be looking at batteries the alternator, wires and grounds I can find. My Edge CTS shows voltage at or slightly above 14 volts when running so maybe the alternator is good.

 

[BigPapa]

I suggest totally removing the Edge and see if it makes a difference before buying a set of injectors.

 

[Ozymandias]

14V charging is to low except in 100°f weather.

 

[cricha]

I suggest totally removing the Edge and see if it makes a difference before buying a set of injectors.

I have an Edge CTS and was told it is just a "Reader", and does not affect operation. Why remove it? Legit question, not arguing, just wondering how it would affect other readings or data .

 

[Ozymandias]

I have an Edge CTS and was told it is just a "Reader", and does not affect operation. Why remove it? Legit question, not arguing, just wondering how it would affect other readings or data .

It always can be malfunctioning and interfere with the CAN BUS like any electronic part, factory or aftermarket doesn't matter for that point.
So taking it offline is just to make sure.

 

[BigPapa]

I have an Edge CTS and was told it is just a "Reader", and does not affect operation.

Ozy's right, anything can effect electronics. If it plugs between a sensor and the main harness, it can cause an issue. I wasn't aware what you have was just for gauges. I thought they all had programming abilities.

 

[Turbo Terry]

Ozy knows his stuff