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Heater grid bolt failure

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So does the grid heater relay need to stick on for the nut to melt down or will the nut melt down after heater being used a lot. One or the other or both ??
 
It can happen either way. Any time there is a poor electrical connection, heat will be generated in a localized area. That heat will be highly concentrated at the exact point of the poor connection. This will eventually lead to some kind of failure.

Electrical connection points are considered as conductors, so any measured resistance should be virtually unreadable. If the connection is electrically sound, then virtually no heat will be generated at the connection point.

If an electrical connection on a particular grid heater has a 2 volt drop while passing 200 amps of current through the connection at 12 volts, then 400 watts of heat would be generated at the exact point of the loose connection. As time goes on, the connection condition will continue to deteriorate. How far it deteriorates, or how long it takes will be anyone's guess.

Any electrical connection that deals with high amperage current can be problematic over time and use. The down side of this particular application is in the design. A better design would have been to manufacture the component in a manner that when a failure occurred, a piece of the component could never fall into vulnerable space.

- John
 
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That's fine if you have a volt meter visible on the EVIC. On a Tradesman, you'd have to have just that called up on the EVIC.
you might notice the headlites dimming .. or even get a battery lite.. if that dead short stays on for any length of time.. whats that other warning we get on these trucks? battery Saver Mode, something like that..
 
you might notice the headlites dimming .. or even get a battery lite.. if that dead short stays on for any length of time.. whats that other warning we get on these trucks? battery Saver Mode, something like that..
I added a small LED to the cowl panel between the wipers that is visible inside the truck. I used 24ga wire from the heater side of the relay to power the LED. If the wire ever shorted it would just melt away. I'm amazed that the heater comes on at every cold or hot start if the ambient is around 60 or below.
 
I added a small LED to the cowl panel between the wipers that is visible inside the truck. I used 24ga wire from the heater side of the relay to power the LED. If the wire ever shorted it would just melt away. I'm amazed that the heater comes on at every cold or hot start if the ambient is around 60 or below.
they use that grid heater for emission control ( aka white smoke elimination) too.
 
they use that grid heater for emission control ( aka white smoke elimination) too.

I’m not sure it’s for white smoke, but it is definitely for emissions.

With the grid heater removed on my 05 I never got any white smoke at cold idle, even sub zero. These motors shouldn’t produce white smoke if they are in good working order (they aren’t powerstrokes after all)

The grid heater will produce a more efficient burn on a cold cylinder which will reduce warm up time, fuel consumption, and overall emissions.
 
I’m not sure it’s for white smoke, but it is definitely for emissions.

With the grid heater removed on my 05 I never got any white smoke at cold idle, even sub zero. These motors shouldn’t produce white smoke if they are in good working order (they aren’t powerstrokes after all)

The grid heater will produce a more efficient burn on a cold cylinder which will reduce warm up time, fuel consumption, and overall emissions.

FWIW white smoke is emissions in their most visible form.
 
FWIW white smoke is emissions in their most visible form.

White smoke is unburnt fuel, which in this engine is generally associated with a worn component. In some diesels it’s normal when cold, but not the ISB.

It is definitely a bad emission, but not common.
 
Very interesting video. I’m talking to my Indy next time I’m in there. He mention the grid bolt issue one of the last times I was in there so he’s aware of it. I will see what he will charge
 
Very interesting video. I’m talking to my Indy next time I’m in there. He mention the grid bolt issue one of the last times I was in there so he’s aware of it. I will see what he will charge

Why are you worried at all - you have a MaxCare warranty on your Truck. If it eats the bolt you get a new engine for free.
Start modify it and your warranty is gone - bye bye new engine for free - welcome 20k bill.
 
The wiggle test is pretty "useless"! The way the it runs through the rubber insulator, it wiggle with a tight connection. No real way to tell when or if the nut is about to drop off! From video of the BD to Banks comparison, it appears that in the much colder starts have an effect of the nut. :eek:
What a difference between the two heating elements in the cold starts! From the way the Banks heater start was acting, look like you would need 2 coils to equal the surface area of the stock grid heater! She sure was made at -30C/14F! :rolleyes:
 
My experience with dealers and warranty work is hit and miss. Mostly a miss. Too many poorly trained wrench slingers for me. I don’t ever spring for extended warranties cause they rarely pay off, same as paying too much payroll tax and waiting for a large “refund” of your money that they have used interest free. Some make out, most don’t. Warranty via stellantis or aftermarket these days is just like any other insurance….they look for any reason to deny, not help. They have deep pockets and the average consumer doesn’t. I personally hate waiting for the stealership to do anything for fear that they will mess it up somehow.
 
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