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I had to shorten the frame on mine to get it to fit a short bed. The only 1st gen factory short bed club cabs were 1/2 ton gassers.

Around 50 psi, but that also depends on how aggressive you've advanced your timing.

Yes, I did use a different MC. One with a larger bore to move enough fluid volume to achieve a good brake pedal feel and height. I pieced together my own conversion. But the way I did it looks similar to kits made by EGR and others.

Converting to rear discs was one of the best modifiations I've done. I would have done it right when I bought my truck if I had known what a difference it would've made. I love how rear discs stop MUCH improved vs. drums, especially in a panic stop situation. No more pulling to one side when you...

I had to massage the floor pan a bit with a sledge to get the 5" DP to clear, and it's still tight but it does fit. I also had to modify the upper piece to the trans x-member to get it to fit between the frame and t-case, way tight there too. 5" is easy once your past the t-case. I did cheat and...

My twins spool pretty fast with my 5". I've got more than enough torque with 5" anyway. If 4" gives a little more I doubt you would notice much difference vs. 5". Plus the looks you get when someone sees a 5" pipe stuffed under your rig makes it worth it too.

The rear disk is mine.

bvanetten, the 1 5/16" bore MC I used is for a 80's GM 1 ton w/hydraboost. I had to slightly modify it to fit a Dodge brake booster.

Willys, I found my El Dorado calipers in a junk yard for cheap. I used them for cores, as they were trashed. The core charge is why they are so spendy anyway. I got my brackets off Ebay from user greatlakeoffroad. They are for a Dodge D60 rear, but they fit the D70 too. You can use 3/4 ton GM...

I just converted mine to rear disk a few weeks ago. I used the El Dorado calipers and pieced it together myself. I'm into it less than 400. 00. I must say it is one of the best mods to my truck I have done. I did have the low, spongy pedal problem everyone seems to have. I ditched the stock 1...

I run a HT3B with a 22cm turbine housing. I did the work myself, I was down a few days putting it together. No dyno runs yet.

So the HT3E is smaller. Now I know. If the HT3B is bigger, then it should flow more CFM but spool slower. I have a hybrid on top like swankmetel, the most I've seen so far is 62 psi.

I know the HT3B is a tight fit. I would assume the HT3E is even bigger. Where are you going to put it?

The AA kit is the way to go. The adapter bell housing fits perfect, and all your old parts bolt up. The only thing I didn't like was the instructions said to leave out the rear seal on the NV4500. This is because the coupler shaft for the T-case won't fit in the seal. I felt this was kind of...

Mine did the same thing too. If I let it sit for awhile, it would start hard and run like crap for about a minute. The o-ring that seals the fuel pin in the AFC was leaking. Replacing it made the problem go away. Been fine ever since.

How about using a Gm NV4500 with a Dodge input shaft and retainer? Then use a Gm 205(These are more common). Advance Adapters can make a NV4500 bolt to almost anything, try looking at their website.

caleb I'm using the htt 35/40 with POD's, and I tow with mine occasionally. It does help over a stock turbo with EGT's, but you still have to watch the pyro.

Pastor, I have fresh head with heavy duty valve springs, titanium keepers & retainers, fire rings, head studs, and other goodies. Just waiting for some extra time to put it on. I figure that should fix the valve float at higher RPMs. Just wanting to take advantage of the new head by letting the...

I scored mine on Ebay for $30.

I was unaware I was disrespecting anyone. I didn't think that a $20 spring part# was classified info to an elite few. That said, all I was wanting to know is if there is other spring options so I can rev my motor higher. I'm sure there are others that would like to know as well. The second...