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15K miles post complete rebuild - won't shift into overdrive. Appears to be hunting for a gear on deceleration - No codes in the Edge computer.

Very Sano looking Sandreason!

I like that one very much! Thanks for sharing!

Hey Fireman Dave, I have the same thing on my truck - either hot or cold with no in between. Also no defrost as well as a noxious mist from the heater - classic heater core shot symptoms. So this morning I will start by replacing the heater core and then go from there. More later.

Thanks Pete, For sharing the info. This morning I begin my first heater core replacement project. If they are not expensive it might be a good idea to buy extras and store them is a cool dark place so they last longer. You know how it is - you find this information now, then a few years down...

Did you check to see if your vacuum pump seal is leaking?

My OEM TPS/APPS has been fine for 200,000 miles and 15 years.

Actually TDC and BDC were very easy once I knew how to remove the crankcase vent. Just used the alternator bolt to turn counter clockwise and line up the TDC marks using my telescoping inspection mirror. Then marked the bottom of the nut with chalk for BDC. Turned it close with that mark. Then...

I was watching Pete Gould's video today and he talked about how the vanes can get 'gunk' on them which prevents them from sliding in and out of the recess they are in. A light sanding solves the problem. Watch his video it is on youtube.

Actually the Gould kit was $75 delivered from Geno's but includes two seals, two sets of O-rings, 1 gasket, plus PVC tools for removing and installing and a video. The video (1 hour) is excellent with a wealth of information to prevent you from screwing up the job. If I am spending the time to...

I have an oil leak on the drivers side behind the timing chain cover. I thought it was the crankcase vent so I reengineered that with a larger see thru catch container. It has leaked for years so I pressure washed the underside to help locate the leak. I am now certain it is from one of the...

Just did mine today (201,000 miles) except for one they were all a little tight so I went ahead and adjusted all to spec. Used the alternator nut to turn the fuel pump mark to TDC and then BDC. Except for getting the valve cover off/on and getting to #6 it was easy.

Great information guys will do.

How do you remove the hockey puck part of the crankcase vent at the top front of the timing gear cover? I pried and tugged on it a little today but didn't want to damage it if that is not the way it comes out.

Anyone know where to get a couple of new ones. Mine popped out a few weeks ago due to a heavy clothes bar and has gone missing. Thanks

Thanks BG, just printed my manual 1,889 pages of it and 185 ft/lbs is what it listed. Sure you are right on metric it must be either a 33mm or 34mm. You are probably right about the space but it is a little disconcerting to see when you think about the ramifications if the nut were to fall at...

I noticed that there is about a 1/4" gap between the Pitman arm and the base of the power steering block so I thought I would check the torque on the bolt. My 32mm socket would not fit on so I suspect it is a 1 & 5/8" Bolt. Can't believe there is not a coter pin to keep the bolt from falling off...

Another problem that no one has mentioned yet is a broken accumulator piston return spring. It is an easy access on the bottom driver side of the valve body; there is a small metal plate with five screws and a wiring retaining hook on one end. When I fixed my transmission I found mine was broken...

Up to 10 quarts now with improving transmission operation.

Transmission back together and its running much better. I am a little puzzled - took out 11 quarts of AFT during the disassembly process but it is close to the full line after putting 8 quarts back in. Started the engine and moved the shifter through the gears while warming it up. Checked the...