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Until you get stupid with the power, stock shafts are fine. Get the better clutches and steels, since you're in there anyway, and while you've got the fluid drained get the check ball out of your cooler line.

Give this a read: http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-152720.html

Is fuel squirting equally from all injector lines now? Or still only dribbling from some? Is the fuel good? When you park it, do you put stabilizer in it and top the tank off?

Huge difference, isn't it? I told a guy to look into it, as he was replacing a headlight bulb on his 1/2 ton with clouded lenses at 9pm in the parking lot of the local parts store...

First off, P0700 is Chrysler's way of saying that you have trouble codes stored in your transmission control module. You'll need a higher end scan tool to fetch those. Alldata says for the P0602 - Reflash the PCM. If the code persists, replace the PCM. So basically you need to get it to a shop...

You can buy a lot of hub bearings for the cost of a free spin kit, and it'll take decades for the average joe to recoup the cost based on fuel economy alone. Make sure either the product or the box says made in USA, Germany, or Japan. Don't buy the cheap crap made in Korea or China. Just...

There's a pressure spring that is different, to change shift points, but otherwise it should be the same. If you bolt it in and find that your truck wants to spin up to 4000+ before shifting when you get on it, you'll know why.

400-500 sounds about right, my brother inlaw and I picked up my short bed without tooooo much trouble.

Interesting, I've got a Pacbrake and an automatic... of course I put the valve springs in and built my transmission...

I'll never buy a Redhead product after my buddy's experience - he got a bad one out of the box and Redhead basically said "it happens, we don't QC check, sorry about you having to pay for the labor twice"

I'm still getting air in my system somewhere. All of the rubber lines have been replaced, however the 1/2" feed lines are getting on about 4 years old now. One of these days I'll pick up a whole set of copper and re-seal the injectors. It would be nice to know where it's coming from though.

You probably could have picked up a chunk of bulk brake line and bent your own.

Kind of a dick comment, but ok. The stock stuff should be reliable. There aren't many moving parts. Considering how many people have issues with leaks in the stock fuel system, though, they're not without fault.

NEVER buy based on name alone. Timken puts their name on cheap Chinese crap too. Check the box for Made In (Not China/Korea). http://www.twoguysgarage.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12547 Are you making insane power? Do you have upgraded axle shafts? U-joints are the inexpensive fusible links of...

I may be swapping a standard cab long bed frame under my quad cab (short bed) and if I do, I'll probably ditch the bed and go with a flatbed, since there's a couple inches of wheelbase difference. In for the updates...

Apparently the old ones are much better than the new ones. I've had mine on 2 different trucks since 2010 with 50-60k miles of trouble-free operation.

You can balance an egg, but it will still wobble you right off the road. If the rims are bent, get them fixed. No amount of weight will make them round.

I'd run b20 all day long if I could get it that cheap. The local casino that has the best prices around, had b5, b20, and I think b100 but it was all more expensive than the regular ULSD. They stopped selling it.

Not shifting automatically? Governor pressure sensor issue? But if you're already slipping, it's probably time for a rebuild. I rebuilt mine last year, they're not too bad. If you tackle it yourself, the ATSG manual has a bunch of bad information in it.

Spendy part. Discontinued through Chrysler, Napa has them available for 300-400+. Ouch. Plus an hour to install (ish).