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#0 plate

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fuel plate on sat!!

Evan's 6-way Turn Signals

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If you are referring to not having a cam plate at all... . that's what my current setup is.



Pulls hard, mileage is about the same and is absolutely free to do... . BUT it's VERY dangerous to the pump ($$$$) if the rack travels too far. Stock turbos (like my WH1C) don't like high boost for very long... . so keep that in mind too. I've seen 1250* pre-turbo and 38psi... and mine made 258. 6rwhp with no other mods. . everything stock.



It's easy to keep EGT's under control... . keep your foot out of it.

I've never kept my engine at full throttle for more than about 5-8 seconds, but this is more than enough to get the beast moving MUCH better than stock.



This mod will yield better results with a higher HP CPL pump... . :D



If you are referring to an actual camplate, ignore this post. :)



Matt

PM me if you want to know more, I've been driving around like this for about a month or so now.
 
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So is there any way to be sure you wont damage something by doing this? Anyone know how to maybe reshape the plate to where it will work good and not damage anything?
 
Not sure if it will work, but if you grind the stock plate so that you no longer have any peaks... . or just reduce the height of the peaks... this *should* increase fueling... . what we're trying to do is increase rack travel... and anthing that allows it to move forward towards the grille further (no plate or modified plate) or quicker (AFC) than stock will give you more power.



What do I know??!! :)



Matt
 
Matt,



Wow! :eek: Look at you go! Just a few months ago you were asking all these same questions. Now you're helping out the new guys. You're moving along quite nicely.



I'm gonna keep my eye on you. With your accelerated learning curve, you might be trying to overtake me shortly. :)



-Chris
 
Piers told me this is the plate he runs in his truck/pumps. It's just a rack stop with no fuel curve, just a flat plate. This means that your foot is the only control over how much fuel the pump runs in even at low and high RPMs. Only the governer and the AFC would defuel at all. All the other TST plate have sme sort of high RPM defueling built in which help keep the EGT gauge from winding itself around and around:eek: :eek:



Get a hold of Piers or Joe Donnelly they can clue you in on this hyper plate.



Kind of sounds like FUN:D :D
 
Piers is the one who told me about the plate. I would have asked him more but I didnt want to bother him too long. I wonder if its an actual plate or just something else that takes the place of the plate. I mean does it go in just like a plate and look basically the same. If its good enough for him its good enough for me. Thanks for the replies guys
 
TST makes the zero to my specs. Mark agreed to supply it only to me. I use it for those who are old enough ;) Others can use the #10 that I designed earlier for Mark during our R&D projects that got to 400 hp with just a plate and a 16 cm2 housing on a 215 hp engine. It is hardened like all their plates and when installed in the stock position, will give you the most power of any plate, without risking the pin on the rack. If that pin is what stops the rack and it breaks, you can plan on spending at least $1000. I gave one of them to Piers but he knows better than to sell it to anyone :D



Don't believe everything you read here about how it works or what it looks like. I could show you, but I'd haffa killya :rolleyes:



I can say is that Sickly has been using the 0 or a prototype of it since making 510 hp. I make my prototypes with a slag grinder and a die grinder. anyone could do good work with good tools; I like the extra challenge :D
 
Joe, Joe, Joe, I'd show but then would have to killya :D LOL:D It is kind of fun grinding on the plates, my #11 has as much fueling max as the #10 w/o all that killer bottom end of the #10.



Your next plate is going to be in the negitive number and will have to have a spring on it to pull the rack forward faster and further so that that tired old Sickly feels better again. LOL



I want to know about delivery valves????





All I can say is I'm glad there guys out there like you, Piers and Lawrance so us guy can get our fixes.
 
I'm sorry to drag this up again, but this came up a while back and I guess I'm still not smart enough to understand :)



I was under the impression that the rack rides on the plate reguardless of throttle position. Then I was corrected and was told that the rack only touches the plate at WOT. Which is it?



If the latter is correct, then unless Matt goes WOT then he has nothing to worry about right?



Thanks,

Ryan
 
I dont get it. If youre arent supposed to use a #0 plate then why did Piers recommend it to me. He obviously sells them or he wouldnt have said anything. I would also like to know if the plate is for part throttle or just full throttle control. I wish someone wrote a book about these in line pumps. But until then keep the info coming. Thanks
 
I can't believe you Joe, you grind the bumps off a plate, to make a fuel stop, or safety, something every farmer who pulls in the midwest has done for years, and try to market it has #0 plate? As a new invention?:confused:



gene
 
Neat project

Sounds like a neat project (something to do this weekend). I just happen to have a stock fuel plate just sitting around. How far can you safely grind the plate down without causing binding problems?
 
BHaner I think that is the trick you are paying for IMO. You can grind away at anything but will it be right and will you know if it is wrong.
 
If anybody has one of these hogs laying around, pls snap a digital image for us. :D





Thanks





Caution: Doing this takes cahonies.
 
Cooker,



when you take the AFC housing off, you see that little arm that sticks down? When you first hit the throttle the position of that arm is what stops the rack from traveling. AS the boost builds the boost pushes the diaphram in the AFC and moves that arm forward, allowing the rack to move forward. Once you have build enought boost to push the diaphram forward far enough, it hits the plate. From there is follows the plate.



How much boost does it take. Depends on what AFC spring you have, housing position, etc. Don M posted not too long ago that a light spring is out of the way by about 10psi and a heavy spring by about 20-25psi. I think the stock spring is on the middle somewhere.



So there are tons and tons of possible combinations of settings of by moving the housing forward and backward, moving the plate around, changing springs, adjusting the star wheel, etc. to control your lowend fueling, driviability and all that. Ultimately after you create enough boost the plate shape and position is controlling topend.



This is where guys like Piers is the master. And I find its tricky, every time I mess with it, I just end up driving back to Piers and have him fix it for me.
 
Sly,

Thank you very much for the detailed answer :)



If I am understanding this correctly (I just spent 7 hous in a class so my mind is a little fuzzy), this agrees with what I have thought all along. One does not have to run WOT for the arm to come in contact with the plate, and if Don is correct, it could come in contact with the plate at a very light throttle position. I think most of us can easily make 10psi of boost running down the highway with a load, and some of us very easily unloaded :)



Although it does seem that one could set up the truck so that the only time the arm comes in contact with the plate is WOT.



Thanks for finally clearing this up for me :)



-Ryan
 
As for the 0 plate

Got to see one in action today in Dallas and ride in the truck, they are sensored and should be, I will tell you they fuel like a Mutha, like cover the road up! They best ride in a truck yet!



Jim
 
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