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03 Alignment

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I found an adjustable ball joint for my truck last week and had it installed today. The truck now drives like a dream. I've driven 102 miles since the install and as far as I can tell it's absolutely perfect. It pulled to the right before the install.



Here's what happened. I went to the alignment shop that I get all my wheel and tire work done and ask if anything could be done about the pull to the right. Don listened carefully to my tail of woe with a silly grin on his face and when I got through he said "sure, I can fix it". I naturally wanted to know how he was going to do that since there were no adjustable ball joints for the new Dodges. He then took me out to the shop, reached in a drawer and pulled out a box that said, adjustable ball joint for '03 3/4 and 1 ton Dodge, or something like that. I ask him where in the world he found that and he said "one of his sources". How much, was my nest question and he said $110 plus $76 for removing the old ball joint and installing the new one. I was mulling this over, knowing all the while I had to have it when he said D/C will warrant it. Pay for the entire instillation. He told me to go on down to the dealer and tell them my truck pulls to the right.



Now get this, I didn't even buy my truck from this dealer and told Don that I'd better see if my dealer would warranty it first. He said sure, go ahead. Now these 2 dealers are about 75 miles apart so I headed straight for my dealer and he gave me the runaround but didn't say no. He also had never heard of an adjustable ball joint for the '03. In the end I decided he probably would not warranty the work so a couple of days latter I went back to see Don and he again told me to check with the local dealer. Since I didn't buy my truck there I thought, fat chance of getting this dealer to do anything.



I talked to the service manger and he said sure we'll warranty it and picked up the phone and called Don to see if he could get me in right then. Don said no but he could get me in Monday at 10 AM. I made the appointment and was out of there around 2 PM with the most beautiful driving truck in TX.



All I can say is D/C must know about the problem some of us are having and are trying to make us happy.
 
ball joint

Hey SilverFox



What was the brand name and part number of the ball joint? Mine is pulling slightly now to the left but this info could come in handy later. Thanks.
 
I took mine in and had it aligned. They told me the toe in was out only a very small amount but it made a big difference. It still fallows the crown in the road but only slightly now, and I think thats to be expected. I'm fully satisfied with the way it steers now.
 
I have no idea who made the adjustable ball joint or the part number. The shop that did the work for me is 100 miles from my house but I do go by there often. I'll see if I can find out which company makes it.



If your truck wanders then increasing the toe in to the manufactures specifications will correct that, if it pull one way or the other then an adjustable ball joint is the only real way to correct it. These are separate adjustments to the front end and both have to be right to make the truck drive like I want my truck to drive.
 
Manufacturer

Don't have a part number but the manufacturer is: STEMPH Automotive Industries, Inc. http://www.stempf.com/index.htm



Don't have the part number.



Before anyone gets excited about this let me tell the rest of the story. First the alignment is good and the new ball joint is greaseable BUT there is no seal to keep dirt, sand and water out. I took a look at mine today and saw grease around it and thought he greased it and broke the seal. I cleaned the grease off and there is no seal. Every ball joint I have ever seen has a seal, doesn't matter weather it's greaseable or not they should have a seal, IMO. It didn't cost me a penny to have this thing put on but when it wears out, I'll have to pay for the next one and that will be like the one that was there in the first place. If your truck doesn't pull too bad, maybe you should just get used to it. I was so used to mine pulling to the right that when I first got in it after the alignment I thought it pulled to the left. Took about 5 miles to get things settled down so I could go straight down the road. My hope is that D/C will come out with an adjustable ball joint for '04 and maybe it will fit the '03. By that time the one I have now will probably be worn out and I'll need a new one.
 
For those out there who have the pull to one side and nothing seems to help, might it be possible the answer lies in the REAR axle? Based on what little I know about limited slip mechanism in our 11. 5 axles, it might (emphasize might) be possible for one wheel to be consistently getting more torque than the other wheel, which may cause a pull to one side when driving down the road. This could happen if the pinion gear brake shoes on one side were out-of-whack, causing the side gear on that side to transfer more torque to the opposite wheel.



Of course, if that were true, most folks with the incurable pull would also have limited slip, and the pull would disappear whenever you took your foot off the accelerator (reversing the direction of torque on the pinion).



It's a long shot, but I just thought maybe looking at the problem from a completely different side might yield something. What do you think?
 
I also have this nasty pull.



I have made a few posts about it. My truck has been in twice for this issue, with no real results.



I have a DRW 4x4 w/limited slip.
 
Mine Pulls Right. Its a problem with these trucks,been discussed MANY times. Call D. C. and *****. Numbers are HIGH on the pulls right. 1800-992-1997
 
A tip on picking the correct alignment shop Don't go tho thoes chain tire shops or any one that looks like there are a teenager that has been dooing alignments for a whopping 6 months.

The problem with these type of shops is they only align to the specs plublished in the book and they use an electronic means of alignment.



What you want to do is find a shop that does big equipmet the old school way no electronics they use tape measures and old school glass level alignment tools...



The advantge to this type of shop is they can 100% of the time make up any corrections for larger tires ro a lift on the truck...



FYI anyone in NOVI Michigan area the best shop around is Harold's frame shop 1-248-349-7550 they also have a shop in redford i think.



ken
 
:) my truck goes to the right also. I have put 10 lbs more air in

the right tire and it still goes to the right,but anot as bad.

If the rear axle isnt true in line could this be the problem?

Out side of this problem -I LOVE MY TRUCK-. Mine is one of the early ones so I am watching my alternator bracket to try and

catch it before it totaly breaks. :p
 
I have a 04 dually had to rotate tires at . 5000 miles because tires



were starting to wear on inside . has any body had this problem
 
Steering Pull

I have an 04 with 3k and it is pulling to the right as well. I called the dealer and he gave me the runaround. Road crown is what he called it.
 
Deed and DP, tell both your **ealers to KYA , they know a problem exists and apparently D/C does not want to acknowledge that! :mad: Put a bunch of miles on mine in recent months and am thinking about going to an independent shop and see what they can do, will have to pay out of pocket but if it cures the problem, WTH?
 
Well I NICELY left a copy that I printed off here about a I think Calif. dealer who was using the 02 TSB adjustable ball joint to correct them and THEIR REP was signing off on the claims etc. They had replaced rear axel assys etc. trying to correct the pull. Anyway MY DEALER was going to show this to THEIR REP and go from there. TWO MONTHS PLUS AGO and as of LAST week still had not SHOWN this to their REP>Said he hadn't been in yet. I said WHATEVER but I will be wanting to see the end of the yellow brick road. In fact I think I'll DROP by them MONDAY. :D
 
My 2003 4x4 Dually pulled to the right. The first alignment came at 90 miles the second at 700 and I sold it at 7000. Two different dealers told me that they couldn't get the pull out. Same story, they needed an adjustable ball joint that was yet to be developed. My 2004. 5 4x4 2500 pulls to the right. I swapped the 265's side to side and even replaced them with 315's and still a pull. I've checked the pressures and swapped these as well. Maybe I'm asking too much but with taxes interest and everything in, I would have almost $100 g's in these 2 trucks. Can I not expect to drive down the road without a pull to the right? I know its a truck but the reason I bought a quad cab with leather interior and Infinity sound is because I like to be comfortable when I drive. I've been driving all kinds of pickups for more than 20 years (in fact this truck probably cost more then my first 4 or 5!) and these are the only 2 that pulled after they were aligned. Gettin a little annoyed...

Trent
 
Good reading

Hey Guys,



Found this in another forum, (sorry can't remember which one), and made a copy of

it some weeks ago.



I think you will find it worth reading :)



begin:

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In a previous posting written by ???? (don't remember), they were complaining about a shimmy in their

Ram 4x4 after striking bumps in the road.

I suggested that the front end alignment has either too little or too much caster, thus causing a caster

shimmy. He did not like my response and changed his concern from a "shimmy" to a "bounce" (big

difference), and insisted it was the shocks. Maybe it is, I haven't driven it. He also said the alignment

"checked out". Here's the problem:

Alignment programs (and service manuals I believe), give a wide acceptable range for front caster on

the 4x4 Rams. I believe the range is 2 degrees to 5 degrees (if that's not correct, it's pretty close). The

problem occurs when the alignment tech (independent or dealer) tells you that the measurements

"checked out fine", just because they were in this broad range of acceptance.

Caster readings that fall on either end of the scale are subject to caster shimmy, even though they are

"acceptable". I had to align some 30 trucks and attend a 9 hour "Dodge Ram Chassis Dynamics

Diagnostics" training session (fancy name, ehh?), before finding out that 3 degrees to 4 degrees is the

optimal caster setting for 4x4 Rams that eliminates caster shimmy.

Below I will post what specifications I set Ram trucks to. First I want to give a little more info on correct

Ram alignments so you can see if you had a job well done,

The eccentrics on the lower control arms ARE NOT for individual wheel caster adjustments (even though

our alignment machine says they are). The eccentric sleeves in the upper ball joints are for adjusting

individual camber and total cross caster (difference in caster between two front wheels). This is why

replacement eccentrics are positionable in eight different ways.

Once camber and cross caster are attained with the eccentrics, the lower control arm eccentrics are

then used to swing the caster readings into specifications. The two eccentrics must be swung in the

SAME direction in EQUAL amounts. If they are not, it will create a setback condition (one front wheel

further forward than the other).

FYI - Comparing between the two front wheels, caster will cause a pull to the smaller value and camber

will cause a pull to the larger value. A truck set up with caster pulling in one direction and camber

pulling in the other direction, can lead to a wandering truck; even though it is "in specifications"!!!!!!

If the eccentrics on the lower control arms of your truck are not pointing the same direction, the

alignment was done incorrectly and the axle was "twisted" or "forced" into position to attain the

acceptable values (seen them from the factory this way, go figure).

A correct alignment will set the truck up with a slight negative cross caster (truck has slight pull to left)

to compensate for right hand road crown. Camber will be equal side to side slightly on the negative

side. This will help maintain acceptable camber when hauling heavy loads, as the truck tends to lift in

the front when towing. Camber will then fall slightly positive when towing.

Just because the alignment shop says "it's in specifications", that does not mean it is set up for proper

performance and handling!!!!!!!!!



Specifications (my personal settings for every Ram I align): all specs below are in degrees.





Left Wheel Right Wheel

-------------- ----------------



Caster 3. 2 3. 5

Cross Caster -. 3



Camber -. 10 -. 10

Cross Camber 0. 0



Toe - standard specs, (maybe a little out if you tow a lot, they will pull in as the front end lifts up).



Brent

ASE Certified

Gold Certified Chrysler tech



__________________

98. 5 24 valve auto, 4x4, QC, LB, EZ, 275's, DTT Rebuild by Fred Swanson, EGT, FP, Boost and trans gauges, BHAF

9 1/2ft 3500# slide in S&S Camper, Torque Lift tie downs, Rancho 9000's

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end:
 
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