'05 Budget Engine Rebuild

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Got most of the bottom end put together. Also got a head from XDP, will try to put that on next week.
Build is going slow 'cause the budget is tight.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Started dropping the ARP head studs.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Got a little exciting after I torqued all the head studs.
I finished the final torque sequence. Grabbed the torque wrench with both hands to start unwinding the spring to lowest setting so I could put it back in its case.
To my horror one of the small bolts on the top of the torque wrench's ratcheting head was missing. I looked every where and couldn't find it. Spent about 30 minutes looking. Got a bad feeling in my gut that I would have to rip the head off to find it. My last step before pulling the head off (that I just finished installing) was to stick a magnet down all the lifter rod holes. At the second to the last hole I pulled the magnet up and there's the bolt dangling from the end.
Said a prayer of thanks, put locktite on the torque wrench bolts, and called it a day.

 

[endoscott]

Man, that's a good day, go have a beer!

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Been a year since I started this project. Costs have skyrocketed.
Finally saved up enough money to get the fuel injectors. Now I just need to find the time to put everything back together.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Bromiley99]

I feel like I need to say this only cause I’ve had so many problems with ARP studs and I don’t want you to go through the same hell I have on multiple occasions.
First off I have only ever bought and used the 425’s the more expensive 625’s might not have this issue can’t say one way or another. But every set I have installed with a new head an followed there instructions to a T, have leaked. The only way around this problem I have found is a hot re-torque of the studs again to 125ft-lb. After your 20 min cam break in immediately pull valve cover an exhaust rockers an hit the again, you will get a ton of movement, you should be fine after that. You will want to re-adjust all the valves after it cools, least check them.
My personal feelings are the 425’ are barely a stock replacement. I’ve changed a lot of heads an every time I use stock bolts an follow the factory manual for torquing them I’ve never had a single issue.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

I feel like I need to say this only cause I’ve had so many problems with ARP studs and I don’t want you to go through the same hell I have on multiple occasions.
First off I have only ever bought and used the 425’s the more expensive 625’s might not have this issue can’t say one way or another. But every set I have installed with a new head an followed there instructions to a T, have leaked. The only way around this problem I have found is a hot re-torque of the studs again to 125ft-lb. After your 20 min cam break in immediately pull valve cover an exhaust rockers an hit the again, you will get a ton of movement, you should be fine after that. You will want to re-adjust all the valves after it cools, least check them.
My personal feelings are the 425’ are barely a stock replacement. I’ve changed a lot of heads an every time I use stock bolts an follow the factory manual for torquing them I’ve never had a single issue.

Good info. Hadn't heard that about the 425s. I'll be sure to take your advice.